Evergreen and shrubby, lavender forms a rounded mound 8 to 32 inches high, topped in summer with the scented flower scapes that made it a symbol of Provence. Grown for thousands of years for perfume and medicine, it asks only for full sun and very well drained soil — meet that and nothing but old age will kill it.
| Name | Lavandula species |
|---|---|
| Family | Lamiaceae |
| Type | shrub, sub-shrub |
| Height | 8 to 32 inches (20 to 80 cm) |
| Exposure | full sun |
| Soil | ordinary, well drained |
| Foliage | evergreen |
| Flowering | summer |
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Planting, pruning and care are steps that help enhance blooming and growth of your lavender.
Lavender grows everywhere around the Mediterranean and in countries that have a similar hot, dry climate. The important point is to ensure maximum sunlight is provided.
Prepare a place that is well endowed with sunlight and very well drained soil.
Sometimes, freshly planted lavender dies after a few weeks, because the soil is too moist. That is why it is crucial to have very well drained soil.
To grow a lavender hedge, plant one stem every 12 to 16 inches (30 to 40 cm).
Growing lavender in a pot is possible. It’s an excellent idea for terraces, decks, balconies and the like: the fragrance will fill the air around it!
When growing in a pot, be wary of giving the plant too much sun because the soil dries out very fast.
Pruning lavender is possible, but must be exclusively performed on growth that still bears leaves. If you prune dry wood, they won’t grow back…
Cut lavender flowers are an excellent way to perfume clothes and laundry.
Lavender must be lightly watered at the beginning, but usually can keep growing without further watering.
Lavender hates excess moisture, so water sparsely to avoid suffocating the roots.
Definitely something to diligently do every single year. This regularity is what helps keep a wonderfully full, round mound of flowers.
It’s easy to propagate lavender. Three techniques make exact copies of an initial lavender plant: cuttings, layering (including air-layering), and crown division. Cuttings can produce lots of new plants, fast. Layering your lavender is when you anchor a stem to the ground for roots to develop. Crown division, in simple terms, is “splitting the clump”.
Growing lavender from seed requires most patience, but it’s full of surprises!
Indeed, thanks to flowers cross-pollinating each other, the child will only inherit a portion of the mother plant’s characteristics.
Most lavenders on the market are lavandin hybrids. These tend to be sterile, though, and won’t bear seeds.
Lavender can be multiplied in four ways, and the one you pick decides whether the new plants are identical to the parent or full of surprises.
| Method | What you do | Yield |
|---|---|---|
| Cuttings | Root pieces of stem taken from the plant | Lots of new plants, fast |
| Layering (and air-layering) | Anchor a stem to the ground for roots to develop | A few plants at a time |
| Crown division | Split the clump into pieces | As many pieces as the clump allows |
| Seeds | Sow and wait | Uncertain: most market lavenders are sterile lavandins |
Choose cuttings for a hedge of matching plants, and seed only if you enjoy the lottery of new varieties.
Lavender flowers and branches can keep for months as dried flowers. Even years, if kept in a dry place sheltered from the sun’s rays.
From the hundreds of lavender varieties, three or four dozens are for sale in garden stores. Sometimes names are confusing, but the scientific name helps check which is which.
The most common varieties are English lavender, followed closely by French lavender (here’s how to tell them apart).
When traveling around Europe and the Mediterranean, you’ll encounter many more varieties of lavender, such as Lavandin, Spanish lavender, Egyptian lavender…
When soil and light conditions are right, nothing will kill your lavender but old age. Possible diseases include root rot and leaf spot.
What to do to heal root rot on lavender
There’s a small chance to save your plant:
This will put the plant in a better condition to fight the fungus off and bounce back.
Lavender has been grown for thousands of years for its scent and medicinal properties.
Native to the Mediterranean area, lavender was first used by Romans to protect cloth and in public baths. Today lavender also beautifies our rock beds and flower beds in the garden.
It was used in Provence (France) early on to produce perfume and medicine thanks to its benefits and medicinal properties.
A very engaging plant, this sub-shrub is one of the symbols of French Provence and of the Mediterranean sun, together with the olive tree.
Easy to care for, lavender only requires minimal watering in case of high temperatures.
Infuse flowers in other oils to use its benefits. Lavender oil remains a major ingredient in perfumes and essential oils, especially in the Grasse region.
Cook with lavender as a garden herb in the same manner you would rosemary: add them to marinades, grills, and even bouquet garni!
Mulch the base of your lavender plants with cocoa hulls for a very ornamental result. Additionally, the lavender scent combined with chocolatey cocoa is a real treat!
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Lavender is famous for its fragrance, which can fill the air around potted plants on terraces and decks. The flowers and branches can be dried and used to perfume laundry, made into fragrant wands, or used as a mite and ant repellent alongside cedar wood.
Newly planted lavender must be lightly watered at the beginning, but once well settled in, it doesn’t require any watering. For potted lavender, a weekly watering is enough, and you should only water when the soil surface is dry to avoid excess moisture.
The article does not provide specific information about growth rate or time to reach mature size or first bloom.
The most common issues are root rot and leaf spot fungus. Root rot occurs from overwatering in poorly draining soil; to treat it, stop watering immediately, lift the plant, replace soil with a well-draining mix, and only water when soil is truly dry deep down (test with a finger 3-4 inches deep).
Prune lavender at the end of winter, favoring young tender shoots rather than old hard wood, and always follow the rounded shape of the plant. Never prune dry wood as it won’t grow back, and cut off all floral scapes after blooming to prevent unnecessary nutrient drain.
