2026 Moon phase calendar for gardening by the moon in the vegetable patch and flower beds.
Follow the moon's phases when planting and caring for plants in 2025 and 2026: you'll grow beautiful seedlings, flowers, and harvest abundant crops.
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VEGETABLE PATCH : With a descending Waxing Gibbous moon at nearly 99% illumination and root energy running strong today, the soil is practically calling you to get digging. Sow parsnip (Pastinaca sativa 'Tender and True', 'Hollow Crown') directly in place at 1–2 cm deep, spacing seeds 15 cm apart in rows 30 cm apart — parsnips hate disturbance, so resist the urge to transplant later / Direct-sow scorzonera (Scorzonera hispanica) and salsify (Tragopogon porrifolius) now in a well-loosened bed; rake in a handful of balanced granular fertiliser (50 g/m²) before sowing to support their long taproot development / Lift and divide any congested clumps of established Hamburg parsley (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum), replanting divisions 20 cm apart to give roots room to swell through spring / On heavier soils, ridge up beds slightly before sowing beetroot (Beta vulgaris 'Chioggia', 'Boltardy') to improve drainage — waterlogged roots split and lose sweetness / Under cover, pot on celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum 'Monarch') into 9 cm pots if seedlings started indoors are showing their second true leaf; keep at 15–18 °C to avoid bolting.
ORCHARD : Full Moon arrives tomorrow at 02h11 (UTC), so root energy is building to its peak — a fine moment to consolidate rather than plant. Mulch around established quince (Cydonia oblonga) and fig (Ficus carica) with a 7–8 cm layer of well-rotted garden compost, keeping material 15 cm clear of the trunk collar to prevent rot / Check ties on trained fan-shaped morello cherry (Prunus cerasus 'Morello') and loosen any that are beginning to bite into swelling bark / If you have young walnut trees (Juglans regia) establishing in the garden, now is a good time to firm the soil around their base with your boot and water in with 10 litres per tree to settle roots before the warm spell ahead / On sandy soils, apply a balanced slow-release fertiliser (80 g/m²) around the drip line of established gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa) and redcurrant (Ribes rubrum) bushes — descending moon energy draws nutrients down toward the root zone, making the timing agronomically sound.
VEGETABLE PATCH : Full Moon energy peaks early this morning, and with a descending moon channelling vitality downward into the soil, root crops are the clear priority today. Direct-sow beetroot (Beta vulgaris 'Chioggia', 'Boltardy') in rows 30 cm apart, placing seeds 2–3 cm deep and 10 cm apart — their earthy sweetness rewards a little patience now / Work in a light dressing of well-rotted compost (3–4 cm) before sowing turnip (Brassica rapa 'Tokyo Cross', 'Snowball') and kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea var. gongylodes 'Azur Star') to improve moisture retention around swelling roots / Celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum 'Monarch') benefits from being started under cover now: sow into deep trays at 18–20°C, just pressing seeds onto the surface without covering — they need light to germinate / In heavier soils, ridge up beds slightly before sowing to improve drainage and prevent root forking; sandy soils benefit from a handful of perlite worked in 15 cm deep
ORCHARD : A morning walk between the fruit trees reveals how much the orchard has stirred into life this week. With the descending moon drawing energy toward root systems, today suits consolidation and soil-level work rather than pruning / Spread a 5–7 cm mulch of composted wood chip around the base of established gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa 'Invicta', 'Hinnonmäki Red') and blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum 'Ben Connan', 'Ben Sarek') bushes, keeping material 10 cm clear of the main stems to prevent collar rot / Check recently planted fig trees (Ficus carica 'Brown Turkey', 'Violette de Bordeaux') for moisture stress — their shallow root systems dry out quickly in spring winds; water deeply at the base (5–8 litres per tree) if the top 5 cm of soil feels dry / In Mediterranean climates, almond trees (Prunus dulcis) at this stage benefit from a potassium-rich feed (30 g/m² of sulphate of potash) watered in around the drip line to support fruit set already underway
VEGETABLE PATCH : A descending Waning Gibbous moon still glowing at nearly 99% illumination — the soil is drawing energy downward, and root crops respond beautifully to that pull. Sow Hamburg parsley (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum) directly in place at 1 cm deep, thinning later to 15 cm apart; its dual purpose as both root and herb makes it a quiet gem worth growing / Direct-sow radish (Raphanus sativus 'French Breakfast', 'Sparkler') in short rows 20 cm apart, seeds 1 cm deep and 3 cm apart — they'll be harvest-ready in as little as 25 days, a satisfying quick return in the spring bed / Black salsify (Scorzonera hispanica) sown yesterday deserves a companion row today: try chicory root (Cichorium intybus) at 1–2 cm deep in well-loosened soil enriched with a light dressing of balanced granular fertiliser (40 g/m²) to sustain those long, probing roots / Under cover, pot on celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum 'Brilliant', 'Prague Giant') seedlings into 9 cm pots if roots are circling the base — a move up now prevents check and keeps development steady through spring.
ORCHARD : Descending moon energy settles deep into root zones, making this a fine window for establishing new soft fruit. Plant out raspberry canes (Rubus idaeus 'Autumn Bliss', 'Glen Ample') at 40 cm spacing in rows 1.5 m apart, setting roots no deeper than 5 cm below the soil surface and mulching with 8 cm of composted bark to retain spring moisture / Blackcurrant bushes (Ribes nigrum 'Ben Lomond', 'Ben Sarek') benefit from being planted slightly deeper than their nursery mark — 5 cm extra encourages strong basal shoots from below ground, which is exactly what you want for future harvests / On sandy soils, work in a generous spadeful of garden compost around each planting hole before backfilling; on heavier clay, open the base of the hole with a fork to ease drainage and prevent waterlogging around tender new roots.
LANDSCAPING : Before 07h20 (UTC), the descending Waning Gibbous moon still channels energy into root zones — a good window to divide and replant established clumps of primrose (Primula vulgaris) or lungwort (Pulmonaria officinalis), spacing divisions 20–25 cm apart so each crown has room to bulk up before summer / Mulch the base of recently planted hellebores (Helleborus orientalis) with 4–5 cm of bark chippings to retain moisture and suppress weeds around their shallow roots — they'll thank you with stronger flowering next spring.
VEGETABLE PATCH : After 07h20 (UTC), the moon shifts to a flower day and the energy lifts — a welcome change that opens the door to some of spring's most rewarding sowings. Sow sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus 'Matucana', 'Cupani') outdoors at the base of supports, 3 cm deep and 15 cm apart, or direct-sow into deep root trainers under cover for earlier blooms / Transplant young borage (Borago officinalis) seedlings started under glass into their final bed position, 30 cm apart — their star-shaped blue flowers attract pollinators and taste wonderful in salads / Sow annual pot marigolds (Calendula officinalis 'Indian Prince', 'Radio') directly in place, 1 cm deep in rows 25 cm apart; they germinate quickly and deter aphids from nearby brassicas / In a Mediterranean climate or sheltered south-facing border, direct-sow nigella (Nigella damascena 'Miss Jekyll') and cornflower (Centaurea cyanus) in bold drifts — rake lightly and firm with the back of a trowel for good seed-to-soil contact.
INDOORS : A flower day suits houseplants that bloom, too. Repot peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii) into a pot one size up using a peat-free multipurpose mix, then water in with 200–300 ml of lukewarm water to settle the roots / Give cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) a half-strength liquid feed (nitrogen-low, potassium-rich) to extend the flowering display — avoid wetting the corm when watering.
LANDSCAPING : Before 15h17 (UTC), the descending Waning Gibbous moon still holds its flower-day energy — direct this window into planting out hardy annuals started under cover: pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), larkspur (Consolida ajacis), and cornflower (Centaurea cyanus) transplant well at 25–30 cm spacing into prepared beds / Deadhead overwintered pansies (Viola × wittrockiana) by snipping spent blooms back to the first healthy leaf node — this redirects the plant's energy into fresh bud production rather than seed set / Feed established rose bushes (Rosa spp.) with a balanced granular fertiliser at 80–100 g per plant, working it lightly into the soil surface around the drip line; roses fed now build the strong cell structure that resists blackspot later in the season.
VEGETABLE PATCH : After 15h17 (UTC), the moon shifts to a leaf day — a natural pivot toward foliage crops. Sow spinach (Spinacia oleracea 'Matador', 'Medania') in rows 30 cm apart, seeds 2 cm deep and 5 cm apart; thin to 10 cm once seedlings reach 5 cm tall / Transplant pak choi (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis) and mizuna (Brassica rapa var. nipposinica) seedlings started under cover, spacing at 20 cm each way — their tender leaves develop quickly in the lengthening spring days / Under cover or in a cold frame, sow a fresh row of cut-and-come-again lettuce (Lactuca sativa 'Lollo Rossa', 'Oak Leaf') at 1 cm deep; in Mediterranean climates or on light sandy soils, this second sowing can go directly outdoors now with confidence / Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla 'Bright Lights') is worth starting in modules today: sow two seeds per cell at 2 cm deep, thinning to one seedling, ready to plant out in three to four weeks.
VEGETABLE PATCH : A descending Waning Gibbous moon at 83% illumination — the energy is settling downward into leaves and stems, making this a dependable day for leafy crops. Sow Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris var. cicla 'Bright Lights') directly in rows 30 cm apart, seeds 2 cm deep and 10 cm apart; thinnings can go straight to the salad bowl / Direct-sow spinach (Spinacia oleracea 'Matador' or 'Monstrueux de Viroflay') in short rows 20 cm apart at 1–2 cm depth — the cool soil temperatures of early April suit spinach perfectly, slowing the bolt response / Transplant endive (Cichorium endivia) and batavian lettuce (Lactuca sativa var. batavia) seedlings started under cover, spacing them 25–30 cm apart; water in with a fine rose to settle roots without compacting the surface / In Mediterranean or mild coastal gardens, a first sowing of New Zealand spinach (Tetragonia tetragonioides) can go in now at 30 cm spacing — it handles heat far better than true spinach and will carry you through summer.
INDOORS : Check on trays of celery (Apium graveolens) and celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum) started last month — if seedlings are showing their first true leaves, prick them out into 7 cm individual pots filled with a peat-free multipurpose compost, handling by the seed leaf only to avoid bruising the fragile stem / Pak choi (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis) and tatsoi (Brassica rapa var. narinosa) sown in module trays under cover will be ready to pot on into 9 cm cells if roots are beginning to show at the base; keep them at 12–15 °C to avoid premature bolting / Water seedling trays from below by standing them in a shallow tray of water for 20–30 minutes rather than overhead watering — this encourages roots to reach downward and reduces the risk of damping off on young brassica and lettuce seedlings.
INDOORS : A steady descending Waning Gibbous moon at 74% illumination draws energy downward into stems and foliage — a reliable signal to focus on leafy growth under cover. Prick out seedlings of pak choi (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis) and mizuna (Brassica rapa var. japonica) into 9 cm individual pots filled with moist multipurpose compost, handling each seedling by a leaf rather than the fragile stem / If you started celery (Apium graveolens) or celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum) from seed in late February, check root development — those with a visible root ball can be potted on into 10–12 cm pots to build stronger plants before outdoor planting in May / Keep ambient temperature above 12°C and avoid overwatering: soggy compost at this stage encourages damping off, which can wipe out a whole tray overnight.
VEGETABLE PATCH : The descending moon continues to favour leafy crops outdoors, and the soil in most regions is warming nicely after a settled April start. Direct-sow rows of lamb's lettuce (Valerianella locusta) and claytonia (Claytonia perfoliata) at 1 cm depth in rows 15 cm apart — both germinate reliably in cool conditions and need almost no attention once established / Sow a short row of cutting celery (Apium graveolens var. secalinum 'Amsterdam') broadcast-style and rake in lightly; thin to 10 cm once seedlings reach 5 cm tall / In heavier soils, work in a handful of sharp sand per running metre before sowing to improve drainage and prevent surface capping after rain — seedlings emerging through crusted soil lose precious days of growth / If you have a polytunnel or cold frame, sow a first batch of perpetual spinach (Beta vulgaris var. cicla) directly in the ground at 2 cm depth, 20 cm between rows: the protected environment gives you harvest-ready leaves two to three weeks ahead of outdoor sowings.
ORCHARD : Before 05h22 (UTC), the ascending Waning Gibbous moon still carries leaf-day energy — a solid window to finish any foliar tasks on fruit trees before the shift. Check gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa) and redcurrant (Ribes rubrum) bushes for signs of aphid colonies along young shoots; remove affected tips by hand and dispose of them away from the plot / Tie in new canes of tayberry (Rubus fruticosus × idaeus) and loganberry (Rubus × loganobaccus) to their wires at 15–20 cm intervals, keeping the framework open for air circulation — this reduces the risk of botrytis later in the season.
VEGETABLE PATCH : After 05h22 (UTC), the moon shifts to a fruit day — the ascending Waning Gibbous now favours crops grown for their fruits or seeds. Sow outdoor tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum 'Ailsa Craig' or 'Tigerella') in 7 cm pots under glass, 2 seeds per pot at 1 cm depth, thinning to the stronger seedling once germinated / Direct-sow dwarf French beans (Phaseolus vulgaris 'Masterpiece' or 'Delinel') under a cloche or fleece tunnel, spacing seeds 5 cm apart in rows 30 cm apart at 4 cm depth — soil temperature should ideally be above 12 °C / Sow courgette (Cucurbita pepo 'Defender') individually in 9 cm pots on a warm windowsill; germination is quick at 18–22 °C and plants will be ready to harden off in three to four weeks / In Mediterranean or mild coastal gardens, direct outdoor sowing of cucumber (Cucumis sativus 'Marketmore') is feasible from this date; in cooler regions, keep them under cover until mid-May.
LANDSCAPING : A fruit-day afternoon rewards ornamental shrubs that produce berries or hips. Plant out rosa rugosa (Rosa rugosa 'Roseraie de l'Haÿ') bare-root stock if you still have any heeled in — dig a generous hole 40 cm wide and 30 cm deep, enrich with a spadeful of well-rotted manure, and firm the crown to soil level / Stake young crab apple (Malus 'Evereste') or ornamental cherry (Prunus 'Kiku-shidare-zakura') trees planted last autumn; check ties are not cutting into the bark and adjust if needed / Apply a 5–8 cm mulch of composted bark around the root zone of newly planted shrubs, keeping it 10 cm clear of the stem to prevent collar rot.
ORCHARD : The ascending Last Quarter moon at 54% illumination is a dependable ally for fruit development — ascending energy pushes vitality upward into branches and swelling buds. Train the new lateral shoots of fan-trained peach (Prunus persica) and nectarine (Prunus persica var. nucipersica) against their supports now, pinching out any shoots growing directly toward or away from the wall at 5–6 leaves / On apple (Malus domestica) and pear (Pyrus communis) trees, rub off any misplaced buds or water shoots emerging from the main framework before they draw energy away from fruit-bearing spurs — no tool needed, just a firm thumb / Check quince (Cydonia oblonga) and medlar (Mespilus germanica) for the first signs of leaf curl or scab; a preventive spray of diluted seaweed extract (10 ml per litre) on both leaf surfaces gives a gentle boost to natural defences. In Mediterranean climates, fig (Ficus carica) trees may already be pushing their first breba crop — keep soil moisture consistent to avoid early fruit drop.
VEGETABLE PATCH : A fruit day with ascending moon — the right combination to get tomatoes, cucumbers and squash off to a strong start under cover. Sow tomato (Solanum lycopersicum 'Sungold', 'Costoluto Fiorentino') in module trays, two seeds per cell at 5 mm depth, in a propagator set to 20–22 °C / Cucumber (Cucumis sativus 'Marketmore', 'Femspot') germinates best when sown on its side to prevent rotting — press each seed 1 cm deep into individual 9 cm pots of free-draining compost / Pot on courgette (Cucurbita pepo) seedlings started last week into 12 cm pots, handling root balls gently to avoid disturbing the fragile tap root / Outdoor sowing of climbing French bean (Phaseolus vulgaris 'Cobra') can begin in sheltered plots where soil has reached 12 °C — sow 5 cm deep, 15 cm apart in double rows 45 cm apart. If you have a cold frame, use it to harden off pepper (Capsicum annuum) and aubergine (Solanum melongena) seedlings for 30 minutes today, gradually extending exposure over the coming days.
LANDSCAPING : Scan the border with fresh eyes — spring-flowering shrubs are at their peak and this fruit day suits any work around berry-bearing ornamentals. Dead-head spent blooms on flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa) to redirect energy into next year's fruiting wood / Mulch around the base of rose (Rosa) bushes with a 5 cm layer of well-rotted compost, keeping it 10 cm clear of the main stem to discourage collar rot / Divide and replant clumps of ornamental grasses such as Miscanthus sinensis or Pennisetum alopecuroides that have become congested — tease apart sections with two garden forks back-to-back and replant at the same depth, 60–80 cm apart.
ORCHARD : The Last Quarter moon reached its exact peak at 04h51 (UTC) this morning — ascending energy now carries vitality upward into fruiting wood, making this a well-timed day to support fruit development across the plot. Before 16h25 (UTC), focus on fruit trees: apply a balanced liquid feed (high-potassium, around 5–8% K₂O) at the base of plum (Prunus domestica), cherry (Prunus avium), and damson (Prunus insititia) trees, watering it in well to reach the active root zone / Tie in and space out the young shoots of wall-trained fig (Ficus carica), aiming for 20–25 cm between laterals to keep the framework open and well-lit / On established grape vines (Vitis vinifera), remove any double shoots emerging from a single bud, keeping only the strongest one — this concentrates the plant's energy into fewer, better-developed trusses. In Mediterranean gardens, check young apricot (Prunus armeniaca) fruitlets for signs of thinning need; removing the smallest now, leaving one per 10–12 cm of shoot, pays dividends at harvest.
VEGETABLE PATCH : Before 16h25 (UTC), the fruit-day energy suits tomato (Solanum lycopersicum), pepper (Capsicum annuum), and aubergine (Solanum melongena) seedlings started under cover — pot them on into 10–12 cm individual containers filled with well-drained compost if roots are visibly circling the base of their current pots / Sow cucumber (Cucumis sativus) and courgette (Cucurbita pepo) seeds individually in 9 cm pots, pressing each seed 2 cm deep on its side to reduce the risk of rotting at the tip / Pinch out the first flower truss on indoor tomato plants to redirect energy into building a stronger framework before fruiting begins in earnest. After 16h25 (UTC), the moon moves into a root day — shift attention to parsnip (Pastinaca sativa), scorzonera (Scorzonera hispanica), and Hamburg parsley (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum): direct-sow in well-prepared, stone-free drills at 1 cm depth and 30 cm between rows, thinning later to 10–15 cm apart. Root crops sown under a Last Quarter moon often show steady, compact germination — worth the patience.
LANDSCAPING : Soil temperature is climbing and spring perennials are pushing hard — a good moment to divide and replant overcrowded clumps of hemerocallis (Hemerocallis spp.) and agapanthus (Agapanthus africanus), spacing divisions 40–50 cm apart in refreshed, compost-enriched soil / Deadhead early-flowering wallflowers (Erysimum cheiri) to extend the display and prevent self-seeding where it isn't wanted / Apply a 5–7 cm mulch of composted bark around rose (Rosa spp.) and clematis (Clematis spp.) root zones, keeping it clear of the crown — this conserves moisture and suppresses weeds through the drier weeks ahead.
VEGETABLE PATCH : The ascending Waning Crescent moon, now at 33% illumination, channels its remaining energy downward into root development — a genuinely productive day for anything that grows beneath the soil. Sow parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) and scorzonera (Scorzonera hispanica) directly in place at 1 cm deep, 15 cm apart in rows 30 cm apart; these slow germinators benefit from a fine, stone-free seedbed worked to at least 30 cm depth / Transplant young celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum) plugs into their final beds, spacing them 35 cm each way and burying the crown only just at soil level — planting too deep stunts the swelling base / Draw up a shallow 5 cm ridge along rows of Hamburg parsley (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum) to encourage straight root development and ease harvest later / On sandy soils, work in a 3 cm layer of well-rotted compost before sowing to improve moisture retention around germinating roots; on heavy clay, delay outdoor sowing by a few days and work the surface when it no longer sticks to your boots.
ORCHARD : Radish (Raphanus sativus) and turnip (Brassica rapa subsp. rapa) sown yesterday under cover are worth a quick check — thin to 8–10 cm apart as soon as the first true leaf appears, since crowding at this stage directly limits bulking. Set aside the thinnings for the kitchen; they have real flavour at this size / On established fig (Ficus carica) and mulberry (Morus nigra) trees, scratch lightly around the root zone with a hand fork to a depth of 5–8 cm, then apply a 5 cm mulch of composted bark, keeping it 15 cm clear of the trunk — this conserves moisture and feeds the shallow feeder roots without risk of collar rot / Check strawberry (Fragaria × ananassa) beds: hoe between rows at 3–4 cm depth to sever annual weed roots before they compete with the developing runners.
LANDSCAPING : Spring bulbs finishing their display — tulip (Tulipa), allium (Allium hollandicum), and camassia (Camassia leichtlinii) — are still feeding their bulbs underground right now. Resist cutting the foliage; instead, tie it loosely with a soft twist tie if it looks untidy, and apply a granular potassium-rich feed (10% K₂O) at 30 g/m² to help the bulbs build reserves for next year / Divide and replant clumps of ornamental grasses such as Carex morrowii or Liriope muscari that have become congested: lift with a fork, split into sections of 5–7 shoots, and replant at the same depth in refreshed soil, watering in with 5–8 litres per plant to settle the roots firmly.
VEGETABLE PATCH : A Waning Crescent ascending moon with just 24% illumination draws energy steadily downward — root crops are genuinely in their element today. Sow Hamburg parsley (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum) and salsify (Tragopogon porrifolius) directly in place at 1–1.5 cm deep, rows 30 cm apart, thinning later to 10 cm within the row; both appreciate a deeply worked, stone-free bed to avoid forking / Dibble in sets of shallot (Allium cepa var. aggregatum) at 10 cm spacing, tips just proud of the soil surface — planting too deep encourages rot rather than bulking / Draw shallow drills for turnip (Brassica rapa) and kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea var. gongylodes), sowing thinly at 1 cm depth in rows 25 cm apart; the ascending energy supports strong early root establishment, which is why germination rates tend to be higher on days like this / In Mediterranean or mild-climate gardens, direct-sow Florence fennel (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum) now at 0.5 cm deep — it bolts less readily when sown in spring warmth rather than midsummer heat.
INDOORS : Pot on young beetroot (Beta vulgaris) seedlings started under cover into 9 cm individual pots using a gritty, free-draining compost mix — roots need room to swell without restriction / Check stored dahlia tubers (Dahlia spp.) for any signs of shrivelling; if the skin looks papery, lightly mist with water and return them to their cool, frost-free storage until planting out after the last frost / Sow celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum) under glass on a warm windowsill at 18–20 °C if not yet done — surface-sow onto fine compost, do not cover the seed, and keep consistently moist; germination takes 10–21 days.
LANDSCAPING : Bare patches in the lawn after winter wear deserve attention now that soil temperatures are rising. Scarify lightly with a spring-tine rake to remove dead thatch, then oversow with a fine lawn mix at 35 g/m², pressing seed in with the back of the rake for good soil contact / Apply a slow-release granular fertiliser (roughly 5:3:3 NPK) at the manufacturer's recommended rate to established turf — roots take up nutrients more efficiently in warming spring soil / If you have heavy clay, spike the surface with a garden fork at 15 cm intervals before feeding to improve drainage and aeration.
LANDSCAPING : Before 04h17 (UTC), the ascending Waning Crescent still carries root energy — a short but worthwhile window to divide and replant ornamental grasses such as Miscanthus sinensis or Pennisetum alopecuroides, spacing clumps 50–60 cm apart in well-loosened soil / Firm in any recently moved ornamental alliums (Allium hollandicum, A. 'Purple Sensation') at 10–12 cm depth, pressing the soil gently around each bulb to eliminate air pockets and encourage firm root contact.
VEGETABLE PATCH : After 04h17 (UTC), energy shifts upward into flowering growth — a genuine lift for crops that bloom before they fruit. Sow sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum) and borage (Borago officinalis) under cover in modules, pressing seeds just 0.5 cm deep; both attract pollinators and reward the kitchen generously / Direct-sow nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) along sunny border edges at 1 cm deep, 20 cm apart — their edible flowers and leaves will be earning their place within weeks / Check on courgette (Cucurbita pepo) and cucumber (Cucumis sativus) seedlings started indoors: pot on into 9 cm pots if roots are circling the base, using a peat-free compost with 20% perlite for drainage / In Mediterranean or sheltered southern gardens, direct-sow climbing bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) in pre-warmed soil at 4–5 cm deep, 15 cm apart — soil temperature should be at least 12 °C at sowing depth.
INDOORS : A lunar node crossing at 23h41 (UTC) closes the day on a note of caution — avoid repotting or dividing houseplants in the final hours. Earlier in the day, feed flowering indoor plants such as Streptocarpus, Kalanchoe, and Anthurium with a diluted high-potassium liquid fertiliser (1–2 ml per litre), applying at the base rather than over the foliage to prevent scorch / Check the undersides of pelargonium leaves for early signs of whitefly; a gentle wipe with a damp cloth and improved air circulation around the pot does more lasting good than any spray at this stage.
LANDSCAPING : The ascending Waning Crescent brings a gentle upward pull — just enough lift to coax flowering ornamentals into their best display. Set out young cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), calendula (Calendula officinalis) and scabiosa (Scabiosa atropurpurea) into prepared borders, spacing them 30–35 cm apart and firming the soil around each collar to encourage quick establishment / Sow hardy annuals such as nigella (Nigella damascena) and larkspur (Consolida ajacis) directly in place at 0.5 cm deep in a fine, raked seedbed — both resent transplanting, so direct sowing now gives them the best start / If you have established clumps of wallflower (Erysimum cheiri) that have finished blooming, remove them cleanly to free up space and reduce the risk of clubroot building up in the soil.
VEGETABLE PATCH : Spring's flowering energy suits crops that bloom before they fruit. Sow courgette (Cucurbita pepo), climbing French bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) and dwarf broad bean (Vicia faba) under cover in deep individual cells — 2–3 cm deep, one seed per cell — so roots develop without disturbance before planting out after the last frost / Transplant sweet pepper (Capsicum annuum) and aubergine (Solanum melongena) plugs into 9 cm pots under glass, keeping temperatures above 18 °C; both need warmth at the roots to set flower buds successfully / In Mediterranean climates or polytunnels, direct-sow basil (Ocimum basilicum) in short rows 20 cm apart, covering seeds with just 0.5 cm of fine compost — warmth and good drainage are the two non-negotiables here.
ORCHARD : A flowering-energy day rewards attention to fruit trees that are actively in bloom or just setting fruitlets. Walk the orchard and check apple (Malus domestica), pear (Pyrus communis) and quince (Cydonia oblonga) for signs of fire blight — remove any blackened, shepherd's-crook shoots with clean secateurs, cutting at least 30 cm below the visible damage and disinfecting the blade between cuts / Mulch around the base of young cherry (Prunus avium) and plum (Prunus domestica) trees with a 7–8 cm layer of composted bark, keeping the mulch 10 cm clear of the trunk to prevent collar rot and conserve moisture during dry spring spells.
LANDSCAPING : Before 04h03 (UTC), the ascending Waning Crescent still carries flower energy — a brief but genuine window to set out sweet william (Dianthus barbatus) and pot marigold (Calendula officinalis) seedlings into prepared borders, spacing them 25–30 cm apart and watering in with a fine rose / Deadhead overwintered pansies (Viola × wittrockiana) and violas by snipping spent stems back to the first healthy leaf node — this redirects the plant's energy into fresh bud production rather than seed set / If you have lupins (Lupinus polyphyllus) or foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) growing under cover, harden them off with increasing ventilation over 7–10 days before transplanting outdoors.
VEGETABLE PATCH : After 04h03 (UTC), the day shifts to leaf energy under an ascending moon — well-suited to leafy crops that thrive on upward sap movement. Draw shallow drills 1 cm deep for spinach (Spinacia oleracea 'Matador') and Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris var. cicla 'Bright Lights'), spacing rows 30 cm apart and thinning later to 15 cm within the row / Transplant young lettuce (Lactuca sativa) plug plants — 'Little Gem', 'Merveille des Quatre Saisons' or a butterhead variety — at 25 cm spacing, firming gently around each collar to ensure good soil contact / Sow pak choi (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis) and mizuna (Brassica rapa subsp. nipposinica) directly in place at 0.5 cm deep; both germinate quickly in spring warmth and benefit from being sown where they will grow / In Mediterranean climates or under a polytunnel, this is a good moment to sow a second row of rocket (Eruca vesicaria) and claytonia (Montia perfoliata) for a succession harvest in 3–4 weeks.
INDOORS : Windowsill herbs appreciate the ascending moon's upward pull today. Pot on basil (Ocimum basilicum) seedlings into individual 9 cm pots using a peat-free, well-drained compost, and place them in the brightest spot available — basil sulks below 18 °C / Snip the first true leaves of celery (Apium graveolens) seedlings to thin them to one plant per module, encouraging a stronger central stem before planting out in May.
VEGETABLE PATCH : The ascending Waning Crescent, now razor-thin and barely a sliver away from New Moon, channels its remaining energy downward into leaf growth — a quiet but genuine boost for leafy crops. Sow rows of cut-and-come-again lettuce (Lactuca sativa 'Lollo Rossa', 'Oak Leaf'), spinach (Spinacia oleracea) and land cress (Barbarea verna) directly in place, 1 cm deep, in drills spaced 20–25 cm apart, then water in gently with a fine rose / Under cover, prick out young Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris var. cicla) and pak choi (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis) seedlings into 9 cm pots filled with moist multipurpose compost — handling each seedling by a leaf, never the stem, prevents bruising the fragile growing point / Sow a short row of mâche (Valerianella locusta) and rocket (Eruca vesicaria) under a cold frame or low tunnel; both germinate reliably at soil temperatures above 8 °C and will give you a harvest in 4–5 weeks / In Mediterranean or sheltered gardens, direct-sow a pinch of dill (Anethum graveolens) and flat-leaf parsley (Petroselinum crispum) now — their feathery foliage will be ready to harvest before summer heat sets in.
INDOORS : A faint morning dew on the greenhouse glass is a good reminder to check ventilation before temperatures climb. Pot on aubergine (Solanum melongena) and pepper (Capsicum annuum) seedlings that have filled their current cells — move them into 10–12 cm pots, burying the stem slightly deeper than before to encourage a sturdier root system / Check the undersides of basil (Ocimum basilicum) and celery (Apium graveolens) trays for the first signs of aphid colonies; a firm spray of plain water dislodges them without any chemical input / Water all indoor seedlings from below by standing trays in 2–3 cm of water for 20 minutes, then draining — this encourages roots to reach downward rather than staying near the surface, building resilience before hardening off.
LANDSCAPING : Leaf energy suits ornamental foliage plants just as well as edibles. Divide and replant established clumps of hostas (Hosta sieboldiana, H. 'Halcyon') now while new shoots are still tight and compact — space divisions 40–50 cm apart in humus-rich, moisture-retentive soil and water in thoroughly / Trim back the untidy winter growth of ornamental grasses such as Stipa tenuissima and Hakonechloa macra to about 10 cm from the base using shears; new growth will emerge quickly and look far cleaner / On heavy clay soils, work in a generous handful of grit or coarse compost around the planting hole of any new perennial before backfilling — improved drainage makes a real difference to establishment over the coming weeks.
INDOORS : New Moon at 11h51 (UTC) — a genuine reset point in the lunar cycle, and the ascending moon now begins its fresh climb. Before 15h16 (UTC), the day holds leaf energy: sow trays of basil (Ocimum basilicum), coriander (Coriandrum sativum) and chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) under cover in modular trays, pressing seeds 0.5 cm deep into fine seed compost, then mist gently and cover with a propagator lid to retain warmth / Under glass, prick out young kale (Brassica oleracea 'Cavolo Nero') and celery (Apium graveolens) seedlings into 9 cm pots — handle each by its seed leaf to avoid bruising the fragile stem / In Mediterranean climates or heated glasshouses, a second sowing of climbing French beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) in 10 cm pots now gives a staggered harvest from midsummer onward.
VEGETABLE PATCH : After 15h16 (UTC), the energy shifts to fruit: step outside and direct-sow rows of climbing courgette (Cucurbita pepo), outdoor cucumber (Cucumis sativus) or dwarf French bean (Phaseolus vulgaris 'Contender') into pre-warmed soil, spacing stations 40–50 cm apart and sowing 2–3 seeds per station at 2 cm deep — thin to the strongest seedling once true leaves appear / Set out young tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) or sweet pepper (Capsicum annuum) plants into their final border positions if night temperatures stay reliably above 10 °C; water in with 500 ml per plant and mulch around the collar with 5 cm of compost to hold moisture / On heavier soils, ridge the bed slightly before sowing to improve drainage and warm the root zone faster — a small gesture that pays dividends in germination speed.
ORCHARD : The ascending New Moon marks a quiet but purposeful moment for fruit trees and soft fruit. Check strawberry runners (Fragaria × ananassa) on established beds: remove any that have rooted in unwanted spots and redirect two or three healthy runners per plant onto prepared soil, pegging them down with a bent wire to encourage rooting / Inspect young gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa) and redcurrant (Ribes rubrum) bushes for the first signs of gooseberry sawfly larvae — pale green caterpillars that strip leaves from the centre outward — and remove by hand or treat with a targeted spray of pyrethrin if populations are high / Water newly planted fruit trees deeply at the base (10–15 litres per tree), avoiding wetting the trunk; this encourages roots to reach downward rather than spreading shallowly near the surface.
ORCHARD : A slender Waxing Crescent rising in an ascending moon — the sap is climbing and fruit energy is building nicely. Set out young strawberry plants (Fragaria × ananassa) in rows spaced 35–40 cm apart, burying the crown just at soil level to prevent rot; water in with 500 ml per plant and mulch with straw to keep the fruit clean later / Tie in new shoots of climbing roses trained on fruit-garden fences, looping each cane loosely with soft twine at 45° to encourage lateral flowering / In the orchard, check grafted apple (Malus domestica) and pear (Pyrus communis) whips planted this spring: firm any lifted roots with your heel and add a 5 cm layer of composted bark around the base, keeping a 10 cm gap from the trunk / In Mediterranean gardens, young fig (Ficus carica) trees benefit from a handful of balanced granular fertiliser worked into the top 5 cm of soil — the ascending moon helps uptake at this stage.
VEGETABLE PATCH : Fruit day, ascending moon — a genuine ally for anything destined to swell above ground. Sow courgette (Cucurbita pepo) and climbing French bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) seeds indoors, 2 cm deep in 9 cm pots, one seed per pot; place on a warm windowsill or propagator set to 18–20 °C for swift germination / Direct-sow outdoor tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) varieties such as 'Gardener's Delight' or 'Tigerella' into deep modular trays under glass, 0.5 cm deep, and cover with a propagator lid / Transplant pepper (Capsicum annuum) and aubergine (Solanum melongena) seedlings started last month into 12 cm pots filled with peat-free multipurpose compost — they appreciate the extra root room as temperatures rise / On heavier soils, raise cucumber (Cucumis sativus) seeds on their edge to prevent waterlogging at the seed coat, a small trick that noticeably improves germination rates.
LANDSCAPING : Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), zinnia (Zinnia elegans) and dahlia tubers all respond well to a fruit-day sowing or planting — the ascending moon encourages strong above-ground development. Sow cosmos and zinnia seeds in modular trays, 0.5 cm deep, under a cold frame or unheated greenhouse; expect germination in 7–10 days / Plant dahlia tubers 10–15 cm deep in a sheltered border, eye facing upward, spacing them 60 cm apart; in colder regions, wait until after the last frost or start them in pots under cover and transplant later / Deadhead any overwintered wallflowers (Erysimum cheiri) by removing spent clusters with clean secateurs — this redirects energy into the remaining buds and extends the display by several weeks.
ORCHARD : The Waxing Crescent on an ascending moon keeps sap moving upward — a genuine asset for fruit development. Before 13h12 (UTC), plant out young cherry trees (Prunus avium) and quince (Cydonia oblonga) in prepared holes 60 cm wide and 40 cm deep, working in a generous shovelful of well-rotted manure at the base / Tie in the flexible new shoots of thornless blackberry (Rubus fruticosus 'Loch Ness') and tayberry along training wires, spacing each cane 15 cm apart to maximise airflow and light penetration — this directly reduces the risk of grey mould later in the season / Check gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa) and redcurrant (Ribes rubrum) bushes for signs of sawfly larvae; pick off any clusters by hand before they strip the foliage bare / In warmer, sheltered gardens, a light foliar feed of seaweed solution (diluted 1:50) applied to fig (Ficus carica) and apricot (Prunus armeniaca) now supports the swelling fruitlets without forcing soft growth.
VEGETABLE PATCH : After 13h12 (UTC), the day shifts to root energy — a welcome cue to focus below ground. Draw out drills 1–2 cm deep and spaced 25 cm apart, then sow Hamburg parsley (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum), scorzonera (Scorzonera hispanica) and salsify (Tragopogon porrifolius) directly in place; these slow-germinators appreciate the ascending moon's upward pull to break dormancy / Lift and divide established clumps of Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus), replanting tubers 10–15 cm deep and 30 cm apart — each piece needs at least one healthy bud / In sandy or well-drained soils, direct-sow parsnip (Pastinaca sativa 'Tender and True') now; firm the seedbed well with the back of a rake before sowing, as good seed-to-soil contact is essential for this notoriously patchy germinator / Under cover in colder regions, pot on young celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum) seedlings into 9 cm pots, keeping the crown just above compost level to prevent collar rot.
LANDSCAPING : A split day like this one suits structural garden tasks that don't depend strictly on either fruits or roots. Lay a 7–8 cm mulch of composted wood chip around the base of ornamental shrubs — keep it 10 cm clear of stems to avoid rot — to lock in spring moisture as temperatures rise / Deadhead early-flowering Helleborus orientalis and Pulmonaria officinalis, cutting stems cleanly at the base with sharp secateurs to redirect the plant's energy into fresh foliage growth / In Mediterranean or south-facing borders, set out pot-grown Cistus purpureus and Phlomis fruticosa now while the soil retains some winter moisture; water in well with 1 litre per plant and avoid further watering for a week to encourage deep rooting.
VEGETABLE PATCH : The ascending Waxing Crescent draws energy downward into the soil — a reliable ally for root crops today. Sow carrots (Daucus carota 'Nantes 2') and parsnips (Pastinaca sativa 'Hollow Crown') directly in drills 1 cm deep, spacing rows 25 cm apart; rake the bed to a fine tilth first to avoid forked roots / Dibble in beetroot (Beta vulgaris 'Boltardy') clusters 2 cm deep, 10 cm apart in blocks — thin to the strongest seedling once they reach 5 cm tall / Direct-sow scorzonera (Scorzonera hispanica) and salsify (Tragopogon porrifolius) in deeply dug, stone-free ground: these long-season roots need at least 30 cm of loose soil to develop properly / In heavier soils, ridge up a shallow mound before sowing to improve drainage and prevent root splitting — a small adjustment that pays off at harvest.
INDOORS : Check on turnip (Brassica rapa) and celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum) seedlings started under cover: pot on any that have outgrown their modules into 9 cm pots filled with peat-free compost, firming gently to remove air pockets / Radishes (Raphanus sativus 'French Breakfast') sown in trays a fortnight ago should be thinned to 4 cm apart — crowded roots stay small and woody / In Mediterranean climates or cold frames, sow a first batch of Hamburg parsley (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum) for its flavourful edible root; keep the compost evenly moist at 15–18 °C to maintain steady germination.
LANDSCAPING : Divide established clumps of Hemerocallis (daylily) now, before the fans grow too tall — use two forks back to back to tease apart sections of 3–5 shoots, replanting at the same depth 40 cm apart and watering in with a full watering can / Lay a 5 cm mulch of composted bark around the base of ornamental grasses like Pennisetum and Miscanthus to conserve soil moisture through the drier weeks ahead; keep it 10 cm clear of the crown to prevent rotting.
VEGETABLE PATCH : Fresh damp soil between your fingers — today's ascending Waxing Crescent is a genuine ally for root crops. Direct-sow Hamburg parsley (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum) in drills 1 cm deep, rows 30 cm apart; its dual harvest of root and leaf makes it a real garden workhorse / Sow black radish (Raphanus sativus 'Black Spanish Round') and long white mooli (Raphanus sativus 'Minowase') 1.5 cm deep, thinning to 15 cm once seedlings show two true leaves — the cool April nights slow bolting and deepen flavour / Dibble in turnip (Brassica rapa 'Golden Ball') seeds 2 cm deep in blocks of 20 × 20 cm; on sandy soils, water the drill before sowing to help seeds make contact with moist earth / Hoe between rows of established leeks (Allium porrum) to loosen the top 3–4 cm of crust and encourage lateral root spread without disturbing the main stem.
LANDSCAPING : Yesterday's orchard work done — now look at what's pushing through the border edges. Lift and divide congested clumps of Siberian iris (Iris sibirica) using two back-to-back forks: replant outer sections 40 cm apart at the same depth, discarding the woody centre; this restores flowering vigour within a season / Work a 3 cm layer of leaf mould around the base of hellebores (Helleborus × hybridus) and bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) to conserve moisture and suppress weeds as temperatures climb / Edge lawn borders cleanly with a half-moon spade, then use the cut turves as a mulch source for bare patches nearby — nothing wasted.
ORCHARD : Run your hand along the soil surface under established raspberry canes (Rubus idaeus 'Glen Ample', 'Polka') — if it feels dry 5 cm down, give each row a slow, deep watering of 5–8 litres to support the swelling buds / Check blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum) and white currant (Ribes rubrum 'White Versailles') bushes for big bud mite: pinch off any abnormally swollen buds and bin them rather than composting, as the ascending moon encourages sap movement that can spread infection further up the plant.
LANDSCAPING : Before 04h44 (UTC), the descending moon passes through a roots phase — a fine window to divide and replant ornamental grasses such as Miscanthus sinensis and Pennisetum alopecuroides, teasing clumps apart with two back-to-back forks and resetting divisions 40–50 cm apart / Firm in any recently transplanted hardy perennials — Geranium 'Rozanne', Salvia nemorosa, Achillea millefolium — pressing soil gently around the root zone to eliminate air pockets and encourage contact with the surrounding earth / After 04h44 (UTC), the day shifts to a flowers category under the descending Waxing Crescent: dead-head spent wallflowers (Erysimum cheiri) and early tulips, cutting stems back to the first healthy leaf to redirect the plant's energy into the remaining buds / Plant out pot-grown sweet William (Dianthus barbatus) and snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus) 25 cm apart in well-prepared beds; water in with a gentle rose-head can rather than a strong jet to settle roots without compacting the surface
VEGETABLE PATCH : After the sign shift at 04h44 (UTC), the flowers energy suits brassica flower crops beautifully — transplant calabrese (Brassica oleracea 'Ironman') and sprouting broccoli (Brassica oleracea 'Purple Rain') seedlings raised under glass, spacing them 45 cm apart in rows 50 cm apart; a collar of cardboard around each stem discourages cabbage root fly / Sow borage (Borago officinalis) and nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) directly where they are to flower — both attract pollinators and nasturtiums double as a pest trap for blackfly, drawing aphids away from neighbouring crops / In Mediterranean or sheltered gardens, direct-sow fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) and dill (Anethum graveolens) 0.5 cm deep in drills 30 cm apart; their umbellifer flowers will feed beneficial hoverflies through summer
ORCHARD : A steady morning light — check climbing and rambling roses (Rosa 'Veilchenblau', Rosa 'Albertine') trained against orchard walls or fences: tie in any whippy new shoots before they snap in spring gusts, using soft twine in a loose figure-of-eight / Scatter a balanced granular fertiliser (roughly 70 g per m²) around the drip line of established strawberry plants (Fragaria × ananassa) now that flower trusses are forming — this directly supports fruit set over the weeks ahead / Under cover or in colder regions, check that pot-grown citrus (lemon, kumquat) are not waterlogged; lift pots onto feet to ensure free drainage, as standing water at the roots weakens flowering and encourages collar rot
LANDSCAPING : Before 10h20 (UTC), the descending Waxing Crescent still carries a flowers energy — a genuine ally for setting out spring bedding and hardy annuals. Transplant snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus), sweet Williams (Dianthus barbatus) and pot marigolds (Calendula officinalis) into borders, spacing them 25–30 cm apart and watering in with a gentle rose head to settle roots without compacting the soil / Divide and replant clumps of Primula vulgaris and Viola cornuta that have become congested over winter: tease sections apart with your hands, replant at the same depth and firm lightly around each crown / After 10h20 (UTC), the day shifts to a leaves category — redirect your attention to foliage plants: pot up young Heuchera 'Palace Purple' and Hosta 'Halcyon' in humus-rich compost, water thoroughly and place in a sheltered, lightly shaded spot to establish over the coming weeks.
VEGETABLE PATCH : A cool April morning with dew still on the leaves — after 10h20 (UTC), the descending moon moves into leaves phase, making this a productive afternoon for leafy crops. Direct-sow rows of Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris var. cicla 'Bright Lights') 1.5 cm deep, rows 30 cm apart, thinning later to 20 cm; its colourful stems will brighten both plate and plot / Sow spinach (Spinacia oleracea 'Matador') in short drills 2 cm deep, keeping rows 20 cm apart — the descending moon encourages energy to settle into leaf tissue rather than racing upward / Under cover, prick out seedlings of pak choi (Brassica rapa var. chinensis) and kale 'Nero di Toscana' into individual 9 cm pots filled with multipurpose compost; handle each seedling by a leaf, never the fragile stem / In Mediterranean or warmer gardens, sow a second row of lettuce (Lactuca sativa 'Merveille des Quatre Saisons') directly outside, 0.5 cm deep, for a succession harvest through May and June.
ORCHARD : Check the base of young apple (Malus domestica), pear (Pyrus communis) and cherry (Prunus avium) trees for signs of grass competition: clear a 50 cm weed-free circle around each trunk and apply a 5–7 cm layer of wood-chip mulch, keeping it 10 cm clear of the bark to prevent collar rot. This simple act reduces moisture stress during dry spells and suppresses weeds without any chemicals / Inspect gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa) and redcurrant (Ribes rubrum) shoots for the first signs of aphid colonies on young tips — pinch out affected growing points between finger and thumb and drop them in a bucket rather than composting them.
VEGETABLE PATCH : Before 12h00 (UTC), the descending moon sits in a leaves phase — a solid window for leafy crops that thrive on this kind of energy. Transplant young lettuce (Lactuca sativa 'Merveille des Quatre Saisons'), Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris 'Bright Lights') and pak choi (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis) into prepared beds, setting plants 25–30 cm apart and watering in with a full watering can to settle roots without washing soil away / Sow spinach (Spinacia oleracea) and lamb's lettuce (Valerianella locusta) directly in rows 20 cm apart, covering seeds with 1 cm of fine soil; the descending moon encourages downward root anchoring, which helps these fast-growers establish quickly / Under cover, prick out celery (Apium graveolens) and celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum) seedlings into individual 7 cm pots — handle by the leaves, never the stem, to avoid bruising the growing point / After 12h00 (UTC), the day shifts to a fruits phase: turn your attention to cucumbers (Cucumis sativus), courgettes (Cucurbita pepo) and climbing beans (Phaseolus vulgaris 'Cobra') — sow two seeds per 9 cm pot on a warm windowsill or in a heated greenhouse, thinning to the stronger seedling once germination shows
ORCHARD : After 12h00 (UTC), the fruits energy opens a fine opportunity for fruit trees and soft fruit. Check strawberry runners (Fragaria × ananassa) for signs of botrytis — remove any grey-moulded leaves at the base and mulch crowns with a thin layer of straw to keep developing fruits clean and dry / On established gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa) and redcurrant (Ribes rubrum) bushes, remove crossing or inward-facing shoots with clean secateurs to open the canopy and improve air circulation — this directly reduces the risk of powdery mildew later in summer / Raspberry canes (Rubus idaeus 'Glen Ample' or 'Polka') benefit from tying in loose new growth to supporting wires now; left to flop, young canes snap in spring winds and the season's harvest suffers for it
LANDSCAPING : A quiet but worthwhile task for the afternoon: check recently planted hardy perennials — Geranium 'Patricia', Nepeta 'Six Hills Giant', Salvia nemorosa 'Caradonna' — for frost heave after last week's cold nights. Press any lifted crowns gently back to soil level and top-dress with a 2–3 cm layer of garden compost to insulate roots and feed steadily as temperatures rise / Sow hardy annuals such as Nigella damascena, Ammi majus and Cerinthe major directly into a prepared border in the afternoon's fruits window — scatter thinly, rake in lightly and water with a fine rose; these self-seeders reward a little patience with weeks of cutting-garden blooms
ORCHARD : The descending moon under a fruits day — a genuinely productive combination for everything that bears or will bear. Thin developing fruitlets on plum (Prunus domestica) and cherry (Prunus avium) trees now, removing the smallest or most crowded fruits to leave one every 8–10 cm along each branch; this redirects the tree's energy into fewer, fuller fruits and reduces the risk of branch breakage later in summer / Check gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa) and redcurrant (Ribes rubrum) bushes for signs of sawfly larvae — those tiny pale-green caterpillars can strip a bush bare in days — and pick them off by hand or apply a pyrethrin-based spray in the early morning / Mulch around the base of young pear (Pyrus communis) and quince (Cydonia oblonga) trees with a 5–7 cm layer of well-rotted bark chips, keeping the mulch 10 cm clear of the trunk to prevent collar rot; this also suppresses competing weeds through the warmer weeks ahead.
VEGETABLE PATCH : Yesterday I noticed how quickly strawberry (Fragaria × ananassa) runners had crept across the bed — worth a look in your own patch today. Pinch off any unwanted runners at the base to keep the mother plant's energy focused on developing fruit rather than spreading / Set out young courgette (Cucurbita pepo) plants under a cloche or fleece if nights remain cool, spacing them 80 cm apart; the descending moon encourages the plant to settle its root system before putting on leafy growth / Sow outdoor cucumber (Cucumis sativus) seeds 2 cm deep in small pots on a warm windowsill, or directly in a polytunnel if you have one — germination is faster above 18 °C and the fruits day supports strong fruit-set later / Feed established strawberry beds with a balanced potassium-rich liquid fertiliser at half the recommended dose; potassium directly supports flower-to-fruit development and improves overall berry flavour.
LANDSCAPING : Climbing roses (Rosa 'New Dawn', 'Compassion') that have put on vigorous new shoots since pruning will benefit from having those stems tied in to their support structure today — left loose, they snap in wind and the season's best flowering wood is lost / Deadhead fading wallflowers (Erysimum cheiri) and early alliums (Allium hollandicum) to keep borders tidy and encourage any remaining buds to open fully / If you garden on sandy or free-draining soil, work a generous handful of garden compost into the planting hole before setting out summer-flowering shrubs such as Weigela florida or Kolkwitzia amabilis; this helps retain moisture around the roots during dry spells without waterlogging heavier ground.
ORCHARD : A descending Waxing Gibbous moon on a fruits day — the garden is asking you to think long-term. Train young espalier apple (Malus domestica) and pear (Pyrus communis) shoots against their wires now, tying in new growth with soft twine at a 45° angle to encourage even sap flow and a well-balanced framework / Check fig (Ficus carica) trees for any frost-damaged shoot tips from late cold spells; cut back cleanly to healthy wood with a sharp knife, leaving no stubs that could invite disease / On quince (Cydonia oblonga) and medlar (Mespilus germanica), remove any crossing or inward-facing branches — two or three cuts are enough to open the canopy and let spring light reach developing fruitlets / In Mediterranean or sheltered gardens, nectarine (Prunus persica var. nucipersica) and apricot (Prunus armeniaca) trees will benefit from a diluted balanced liquid feed (roughly 10 litres per tree) applied around the drip line to sustain the swelling fruitlets already forming.
VEGETABLE PATCH : A lunar node crosses at 14h34 (UTC) today, and with the moon descending through a fruits phase, the morning hours are your most productive window. Stake and tie in climbing beans (Phaseolus vulgaris 'Blue Lake') and runner beans (Phaseolus coccineus 'Scarlet Emperor') before the plants reach the tops of their supports — a 2-metre cane per plant, spaced 20 cm apart, gives roots and shoots room to anchor properly / Pinch out the first side shoots of outdoor tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) below the second truss; removing these early keeps energy directed into fruit rather than foliage, and reduces the risk of botrytis in humid spring conditions / Check courgette (Cucurbita pepo) and cucumber (Cucumis sativus) seedlings under cover: if roots are pushing through the base of 9 cm pots, pot on into 12–15 cm containers using a peat-free compost enriched with a handful of slow-release granules / Thin out pepper (Capsicum annuum) seedlings in trays to one per cell, using scissors rather than pulling, so neighbouring roots stay undisturbed.
INDOORS : After the node at 14h34 (UTC), take a quieter approach and turn your attention to plants under glass or on windowsills. Repot strawberry (Fragaria × ananassa) runners that have been rooting in small pots since last autumn into 15 cm containers filled with a loam-based compost; they'll reward you with a compact crop on a sunny terrace by June / Feed citrus trees (lemon, Citrus limon; kumquat, Fortunella japonica) with a specialist citrus liquid fertiliser at half the recommended dose — little and often through spring avoids the salt build-up that yellows leaves / Check the undersides of bay (Laurus nobilis) and olive (Olea europaea) foliage for scale insects; a cotton bud dipped in isopropyl alcohol removes them cleanly without harming the leaf surface.
ORCHARD : A descending Waxing Gibbous moon on a fruits day — the energy is flowing downward into roots and wood, which makes this a fine moment for consolidation work in the orchard. Before 22h47 (UTC), direct your attention to peach (Prunus persica) and nectarine (Prunus persica var. nucipersica): remove any mummified fruits still clinging from last season, then apply a copper-based spray to guard against leaf curl, working from the base of each branch upward / Tie in new shoots on climbing roses (Rosa 'Zéphirine Drouhin') and thornless blackberry (Rubus fruticosus 'Loch Ness') along their supports, using soft jute twine looped in a figure-eight to avoid bark damage / Check the base of apricot (Prunus armeniaca) and sweet cherry (Prunus avium) trunks for signs of gummosis — scrape away the amber resin with a clean blade and dust lightly with powdered sulphur to slow fungal progression / In Mediterranean climates, give established fig (Ficus carica) trees a deep watering (10–15 litres per tree) now while the soil is still cool enough to hold moisture.
VEGETABLE PATCH : After 22h47 (UTC), the moon shifts into a roots phase — a natural pivot toward underground crops. Plan your next sowings of carrot (Daucus carota 'Nantes 2'), parsnip (Pastinaca sativa 'Tender and True') and Hamburg parsley (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum) so beds are ready to go at first light tomorrow / Prepare a fine, stone-free seedbed by raking to a depth of 20–25 cm; loose, uncompacted soil lets taproots descend straight without forking — a detail that makes all the difference at harvest / Dress the bed with a light dusting of wood ash (roughly 100 g per m²) to add potassium, which strengthens root cell walls and improves storage quality in beetroot (Beta vulgaris) and turnip (Brassica rapa subsp. rapa) alike / Under cover, check on celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum) seedlings started last month: if they are showing their second true leaf, pot on into 9 cm cells with a mix of two-thirds compost and one-third sharp sand to encourage sturdy root development.
VEGETABLE PATCH : The descending Waxing Gibbous moon on a roots day — underground energy is concentrated and ready to work for you. Sow parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) and scorzonera (Scorzonera hispanica) directly in well-loosened beds, placing seeds 1 cm deep in rows spaced 30 cm apart; these slow germinators appreciate a fine, stone-free tilth to push through / Thin out earlier-sown carrots (Daucus carota) and beetroot (Beta vulgaris) to their final spacings — 5–8 cm for carrots, 10 cm for beetroot — removing the weakest seedlings with scissors rather than pulling, so you don't disturb neighbouring roots / Transplant celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum) and kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea var. gongylodes) seedlings raised under cover, setting them 25–30 cm apart and watering in with a diluted seaweed solution (5 ml per litre) to ease the transition / On sandy soils, work in a handful of well-rotted compost per planting hole before setting out celeriac — it holds moisture longer and gives those swelling stems something to feed on through the dry weeks ahead.
INDOORS : Check on radish (Raphanus sativus) and turnip (Brassica rapa) seedlings growing in trays under shelter — if they've been in for three weeks or more, they'll benefit from a gentle half-strength liquid feed today, as root development at this stage draws heavily on available phosphorus / Pot on Hamburg parsley (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum) and salsify (Tragopogon porrifolius) into deeper containers (at least 25 cm) if roots are starting to circle the base; a descending moon supports root settling after repotting and reduces transplant stress noticeably.
LANDSCAPING : Divide established clumps of ornamental grasses like Carex morrowii and Festuca glauca now, replanting sections 20–25 cm apart in refreshed soil; the descending phase encourages roots to anchor quickly into their new position. Mulch the base of newly divided clumps with 4–5 cm of bark chips to retain moisture and suppress weeds through the coming warm spell.
VEGETABLE PATCH : The descending Waxing Gibbous moon on a roots day draws energy deep into the soil — a fine combination for underground crops. Sow Hamburg parsley (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum) and salsify (Tragopogon porrifolius) directly in well-prepared beds, 1 cm deep in rows 25 cm apart; both appreciate a crumbly, moisture-retentive soil that lets their taproots run straight / Transplant young celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum) and turnip (Brassica rapa) seedlings raised under cover, settling each plant at the same depth it grew before and firming gently around the neck with two fingers / Water in with a diluted seaweed solution (5 ml per litre) to stimulate fine root development rather than leafy growth — the descending moon amplifies this effect / In Mediterranean climates or on sandy soils, add a 3–4 cm mulch of straw between rows immediately after planting to retain precious moisture through warm afternoons
INDOORS : Radish (Raphanus sativus), spring onion (Allium cepa) and chives (Allium schoenoprasum) grown in pots or window boxes benefit from a roots day too. Top-dress containers with a thin layer of mature compost — roughly 1 cm — to replenish nutrients without disturbing shallow roots / Check that drainage holes are clear; waterlogged roots are the main enemy of container root crops at this stage of spring / Thin radish seedlings to 4–5 cm apart if you haven't done so yet, snipping at soil level with fine scissors to avoid pulling
LANDSCAPING : Ornamental grasses and perennials with strong root systems — such as Miscanthus sinensis, Pennisetum alopecuroides and Kniphofia uvaria — respond well to division and replanting under a descending moon. Lift established clumps with a border fork, split into sections of 4–6 healthy shoots each, and replant at the original depth in refreshed soil enriched with a handful of bone meal per planting hole; this encourages strong anchoring before summer heat arrives.
VEGETABLE PATCH : A near-full Waxing Gibbous moon, descending and just one day from Full Moon — underground energy is dense and concentrated right now, making this a rewarding session for root crops. Sow black radish (Raphanus sativus var. niger) and Hamburg parsley (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum) directly in well-raked beds, 1 cm deep, rows 20–25 cm apart; the crumbly, stone-free tilth you prepared earlier will let their taproots push down without resistance / Direct-sow swede (Brassica napus var. napobrassica) and scorzonera (Scorzonera hispanica) in succession rows — thin to 15 cm once seedlings show their second true leaf, removing extras with scissors at soil level to avoid disturbing neighbours / Transplant young leek (Allium porrum) seedlings raised under cover: drop each into a 15 cm dibber hole, water in without filling the hole, and let the soil settle naturally around the stem to encourage a long, blanched shank — a technique that saves you earthing-up later / In heavier soils, work in a handful of sharp sand per 30 cm of row before sowing to improve drainage and prevent forking in carrots (Daucus carota) and parsnips (Pastinaca sativa)
INDOORS : Seedlings of celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum) and kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea var. gongylodes) that have been growing under cover for 6–8 weeks should now show sturdy root balls — check by gently tipping one pot: if roots circle the base, pot up into 9 cm containers using a free-draining mix with 20% perlite to keep oxygen reaching the developing root zone / Begin hardening off beetroot (Beta vulgaris) trays by setting them outside in a sheltered spot for two hours this afternoon, increasing exposure by 30 minutes each day; the gradual temperature shift toughens cell walls and reduces transplant shock noticeably / If you have chicory (Cichorium intybus) seedlings still indoors, pinch out any flower buds forming now to redirect energy into root thickening before they go into the ground
LANDSCAPING : Ornamental alliums (Allium hollandicum, A. 'Purple Sensation') planted in autumn should be showing strong spears now — scratch a light dressing of potassium-rich fertiliser (10 g per m²) into the soil surface around each clump to support the developing flower stem without pushing excess leafy growth / Divide and replant overcrowded clumps of Hemerocallis (daylily) before the heat builds: lift with a fork, tease apart individual fans with two forks back-to-back, and replant at 40 cm spacing; roots re-establish quickly in spring-warmed soil
| Day | Moon | Moon disc |
|---|---|---|
* Times on this calendar are for the North Hemisphere. They're given in Universal Time (GMT), meaning they're computed based on the Greenwich meridian.
Depending on where you live, you can adjust the time down to the exact minute to have your true "local moon planting time". If you're East of the Greenwich meridian, you must add minutes; if West, subtract them. A good rule of thumb is to consider your time zone: if your local time is GMT+1, as in Paris, then you must add an hour; if it's GMT-5, as in New York, you must subtract 5 hours. A node at 3PM GMT in London will take place at 4PM (16:00) in Paris and 10AM in New York. You can even adjust for minutes in the same manner, if you're far east or west within your time zone.
In addition, in some parts of the world, you might have to adjust these times because of "Daylight Saving Time". In this case, you should adjust by an hour compared to Standard Time, in addition to the modification resulting from your timezone.
** Gardening isn't recommended 5-6 hours before and after a lunar node, apogee or perigee.
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super calender moon planting 2025
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I’m mystified why 5 days of the end of May are missing from the website.ie May 27-31.
Hard to know what tasks are best done during this period. Do you have the data to email me?
Was this an oversight or intentional? I find your site is SUCH an asset to my gardening and I appreciate it!!!!!
Can I transplant a “Japanese Maple” after May 21-May 31st. 2024? The plant is 2′ high
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I love the calendars that my pharmacy puts out every year which show the best sign of the moon when to plant flowers and garden with seeds or plants and has a sheet at back or calendar with information. It has all the information about that you need for flowers and garden but I never got one this year . He was out when I went so I got on the computer to see what I could find. I just came upon this but haven’t got to read all of it but what I have seen, looks like you have covered everything for flowers and garden.
On the Planting by the Moon calendar for Jan 6 2024 there is a statement which indicates it is time to “set up rose hips” for grafting. How exactly do you set up rose hips?
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