2026 Moon phase calendar for gardening by the moon in the vegetable patch and flower beds.
Follow the moon's phases when planting and caring for plants in 2025 and 2026: you'll grow beautiful seedlings, flowers, and harvest abundant crops.
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VEGETABLE PATCH : Noticed this morning how the air holds that particular stillness that often precedes a sharp night — a good reminder to check on your overwintering crops before the Full Moon peaks tonight at 22h09 (UTC). The descending moon favours leafy greens: harvest outer leaves of kale, perpetual spinach and chard with scissors, cutting 2–3 cm above the base to encourage regrowth. Under cold frames, thin overcrowded rows of lamb's lettuce and winter purslane to 8 cm spacing, then water lightly with room-temperature water. / Sow claytonia and corn salad in module trays (1 cm deep, seed compost) under cover; germination is reliable even at 7–10 °C. In Mediterranean climates, direct-sow rocket in open beds now — soil temperatures are usually sufficient.
INDOORS : Cyclamen, kalanchoe and winter-flowering begonias are quietly doing their best on your windowsill — give them a moment of attention today. Remove yellowing leaves cleanly at the stem base to prevent fungal spread, then feed with a diluted balanced liquid fertiliser (5 ml per litre, half the recommended dose) to sustain flowering without pushing soft, disease-prone growth. / Check the humidity around ferns and fittonias: group pots together on a tray of damp gravel to raise local humidity without waterlogging roots. Wipe glossy-leaved specimens like rubber plants and anthuriums with a barely damp cloth to clear any residue — clean leaves photosynthesise more efficiently under short winter days.
LANDSCAPING : The Full Moon tonight pulls sap towards the surface, making this a thoughtful moment to observe which evergreen shrubs — box, viburnum tinus, eleagnus — show signs of winter stress before acting tomorrow. Today, focus on clearing debris from around hellebore clumps: remove old tatty leaves at soil level to expose emerging flower buds and improve air circulation, reducing botrytis risk. / Apply a 4 cm mulch of leaf mould around the base of ornamental grasses like miscanthus and pennisetum, keeping a 10 cm gap from the crown. In heavy clay soils, avoid treading on beds — lay a plank to distribute your weight and protect soil structure.
ORCHARD : Before 02h27 (UTC), the descending moon still runs through a leaf day — hold off on harvesting fruit and instead use these early hours to mulch around gooseberry and redcurrant bushes with a 5 cm layer of well-rotted compost, keeping material 10 cm clear of the stems to prevent collar rot. Inspect dormant raspberry canes for signs of cane blight; remove any discoloured sections with clean secateurs and burn the debris rather than composting it.
After 02h27 (UTC), the moon shifts to a fruit day — a welcome change for orchard work. Prune apple and pear trees now with confidence: aim for an open-goblet shape, removing crossing branches and any growth pointing inward. Make angled cuts 5 mm above a healthy outward-facing bud. On plum and damson trees, defer pruning until late spring to avoid silver leaf disease; focus instead on checking ties and stakes after winter winds. In milder Mediterranean gardens, this is a fine window to plant bare-root quince or medlar, firming soil well around the roots and watering in with 5–8 litres per tree. On heavier clay soils, wait a few more weeks until the ground drains sufficiently.
VEGETABLE PATCH : The fruit energy of this afternoon suits tomato and pepper seeds started under heat. Fill 7 cm pots with seed compost, sow 2–3 seeds per pot at 0.5 cm depth, and place on a heat mat set to 20–22 °C — germination typically takes 8–12 days. Aubergine seeds also respond well to this treatment; sow them now for transplanting under glass in April. Keep trays away from cold windowsill glass at night by moving them to a warmer shelf. In colder northern gardens, a propagator with a lid will make all the difference for reliable germination at this time of year.
LANDSCAPING : Bare stems and seed heads catch the low winter light in a way that rewards patience. Resist cutting back ornamental grasses like miscanthus and pennisetum just yet — their hollow stems shelter beneficial insects through the last cold weeks. Do take a walk around beds to firm in any frost-lifted hellebore or epimedium crowns with your boot heel, pressing roots back into contact with the soil. Climbing roses benefit from a light tie-in now: secure new long shoots horizontally along wires or trellis to encourage flowering laterals along their full length come summer.
ORCHARD : The waning gibbous moon descends through a fruit day — a fine window for orchard care that rewards patience and precision. Thin out overcrowded spurs on plum and damson trees, removing weak or inward-pointing growth with sharp loppers; aim for 15–20 cm between remaining spurs to improve air circulation and future fruit size. On quince and medlar, check for any mummified fruits still clinging to branches and remove them to limit brown rot spores overwintering on the wood. Around the base of fig trees, scratch in 30 g/m² of potassium-rich fertiliser (such as sulphate of potash) to support next season's fruiting wood — the descending moon draws nutrients downward, favouring root uptake. In sandy soils, follow with a generous watering to help the fertiliser reach the root zone; on heavy clay, wait for a dry spell to avoid compaction.
VEGETABLE PATCH : A fruit day suits more than just the orchard — tomato and pepper seedlings started under glass now will benefit from a light check on their module trays. Inspect for damping off in early sowings of aubergine and chilli; improve ventilation by propping cold frame lids slightly during the warmest part of the afternoon. For those growing under polytunnel or heated glasshouse, sow the first cherry tomatoes ('Sungold', 'Gardener's Delight') at 1 cm depth in seed compost, maintaining 18–20 °C for reliable germination. In Mediterranean climates, broad bean plants already in the ground may show the first flower buds — pinch out the very tips once four flower clusters appear to discourage blackfly later in the season.
LANDSCAPING : Descending moon, late afternoon — around 19h17 (UTC) today the moon crosses its descending node, a brief unsettled moment worth noting if you plan any transplanting. Keep soil disturbance to a minimum in the hours around this crossing. Before then, use the morning to apply a 4 cm bark mulch around the crowns of tree peonies, Japanese anemones and ornamental grasses, keeping material 8 cm clear of central stems. Check ties on standard roses and trained wisteria against winter winds; replace any that have cut into bark with soft rubber ties. On south-facing beds in mild regions, winter-flowering Viburnum × bodnantense and Hamamelis mollis may already be releasing their first fragrance — resist any urge to prune now and let them finish flowering undisturbed.
ORCHARD : The waning gibbous moon descends through a fruit day until noon — a solid stretch for orchard work that rewards careful hands. Before 12h00 (UTC), focus on sweet cherry and bullace trees: remove any dead or rubbing wood with clean loppers, making angled cuts just above a healthy bud, and collect all prunings promptly to reduce the risk of bacterial canker spreading. On pear and crabapple, check branch unions for signs of lichen build-up; scrub gently with a stiff brush and apply a dilute copper-based wash (15 ml per litre of water) to exposed bark. If you grow grape vines trained against a wall, this is a fine moment to complete dormant pruning — cut back to two buds on each fruiting spur.
VEGETABLE PATCH : After 12h00 (UTC), the moon shifts to a root day — redirect your energy below ground. Lift any remaining parsnips, celeriac or salsify that are still in the soil; the descending moon draws sugars downward, concentrating flavour in storage roots. Firm in any heaved-up leek or overwintered onion sets that frost may have loosened, pressing the soil back around the base with your fingers to restore contact. In a cold frame or unheated greenhouse, sow Hamburg parsley and early beetroot ('Boltardy' or 'Pablo') into deep module trays (2 cm depth, root-trainer compost); maintain 10–12 °C for reliable germination. On sandy soils, add a 3 cm mulch of garden compost over bare root beds to reduce moisture loss before the next cold snap.
LANDSCAPING : Bare stems and muted colours are part of winter's honest charm — and a good prompt to check structural plantings. Inspect the crowns of ornamental grasses such as pennisetum and miscanthus: if clumps are congested, mark them for division in early spring rather than disturbing roots now. Around the base of established shrubs — viburnum, cornus, witch hazel — top-dress with a 4 cm layer of well-rotted leaf mould, keeping it 8 cm clear of the main stems to avoid collar rot. This slow-release organic matter will be drawn down by soil fauna over the coming weeks, improving structure ahead of the growing season.
VEGETABLE PATCH : The waning gibbous moon descends through a root day — earthy work suits this moment well. Turn your attention to parsnip, celeriac, and Hamburg parsley: lift any remaining roots still in the ground before a hard frost locks the soil, brushing off excess earth and storing them in wooden crates layered with slightly damp sand in a cool shed. For those sowing under cover, press fine carrot seed (try 'Nantes 2' or 'Chantenay Red Core') into trays of pre-moistened seed compost at a depth of 5 mm, spacing rows 8 cm apart; the descending moon favours root formation, making germination more vigorous. Salsify and scorzonera can also be sown now in deep modules — their taproots need at least 20 cm of loose, stone-free compost to develop cleanly. In Mediterranean climates, direct sowing of radish 'French Breakfast' and turnip 'Milan White' outdoors is perfectly reasonable on a sheltered bed.
INDOORS : Windowsill root crops deserve a little attention today. Check pots of forced chicory ('Witloof' varieties) for chicons ready to harvest — snap them off cleanly at the base when they reach 12–15 cm, leaving the root in place for a possible second flush. If you started sweet potato slips in a heated propagator, ensure the compost stays just barely moist; overwatering at this stage causes collar rot before roots even form. A gentle feed with a low-nitrogen liquid fertiliser (high potassium, such as tomato feed diluted to half strength) encourages sturdy root development rather than soft leafy growth.
LANDSCAPING : Bare borders in winter reveal their bones — take a good look around and note where gaps appear. Divide established clumps of bergenia and ajuga now while the soil is cool and workable; replant sections 25–30 cm apart and firm in well with your boot. Around ornamental grasses like Pennisetum or Miscanthus, scratch in a handful of slow-release balanced granules (25 g per plant) to feed the root zone ahead of spring growth. On heavy soils, fork lightly between shrubs to break any surface pan and improve drainage before late-winter rain saturates the ground.
VEGETABLE PATCH : A root day under the descending waning gibbous moon — the soil draws energy downward, which works in favour of underground crops. Sow beetroot ('Chioggia' or 'Detroit 2') in deep module trays filled with pre-moistened seed compost, pressing two seeds per cell at 15 mm depth and thinning to one seedling once established. Turnip ('Purple Top Milan') and kohlrabi can be started under a cold frame now, spacing rows 20 cm apart with seeds 1 cm deep; germination will be slow but steady in these temperatures. If you have radishes overwintering under cover, check for slugs at soil level and remove any yellowing foliage to improve air circulation. On heavier soils, fork over a prepared bed lightly to break surface crust before any frost returns.
INDOORS : Amaryllis bulbs that have finished flowering deserve some attention right now — cut the spent stem back to 5 cm above the bulb, but leave all foliage intact so the plant can rebuild its energy reserves for next year. Feed with a balanced liquid fertiliser (half the recommended dose) every two weeks. Cyclamen kept on a cool windowsill will appreciate a bottom-watering session: set the pot in 2–3 cm of tepid water for 20 minutes, then drain fully to avoid crown rot. Check the compost of any dormant tuberous begonias stored in trays — if it feels bone dry, mist lightly with a hand sprayer to prevent the tubers from shrivelling.
LANDSCAPING : The descending moon makes this a thoughtful moment for root-zone work in ornamental beds. Mulch the base of hellebores and epimediums with a 5 cm layer of well-rotted leaf mould, keeping it clear of the crown by at least 3 cm to prevent rot. On established clumps of ornamental grasses such as miscanthus or pennisetum, delay cutting back until late February if frost is still forecast — the old stems offer genuine frost protection to the crown. In Mediterranean-climate gardens or sheltered spots, hardy cyclamen hederifolium can be top-dressed now with a thin layer of grit to improve drainage around the corms.
VEGETABLE PATCH : The descending waning gibbous moon holds steady on a root day — underground energy is concentrated, and your soil is ready to receive. Direct your attention to crops that develop below ground: sow Hamburg parsley and scorzonera in deep module trays (at least 10 cm depth) filled with a gritty seed compost, placing seeds 8 mm deep and spacing rows 10 cm apart once pricked out. Celeriac ('Monarch' or 'Prinz') benefits from an early indoor start now — scatter seeds thinly on the surface of moist compost, press lightly without covering, and place under a propagator lid at 15–18 °C; germination is slow but rewards patience. Under a cold frame or polytunnel, check overwintering swede and Jerusalem artichoke for any signs of rot at the crown, and firm back any frost-lifted tubers with your boot. On sandy soils, top-dress root vegetable beds with a 3 cm layer of well-rotted compost to improve moisture retention ahead of spring sowing.
ORCHARD : Bare-root quince and medlar are still available from specialist nurseries this week — if you have a sheltered corner, heel them in temporarily in moist soil until a permanent spot is ready. Check stored quinces and medlars for soft spots, discarding any showing brown flesh to prevent spread through the crate. On established gooseberry and blackcurrant bushes, complete any remaining winter pruning: remove one-third of the oldest stems at the base with clean secateurs to open the centre and encourage vigorous new fruiting wood. A dilute seaweed solution (20 ml per 10 litres) watered around the root zone of fruit bushes now supports dormant root activity without forcing premature growth.
INDOORS : A quiet morning is a good moment to check on forced chicory ('Witloof') and chicons growing in the dark: remove any yellowing outer leaves, keep the substrate just barely moist, and harvest chicons once they reach 12–15 cm, cutting cleanly at the base with a sharp knife. Pot-grown mint divisions and chive clumps brought inside earlier in winter will be showing new growth — snip lightly to encourage density and move them closer to the brightest window available.
VEGETABLE PATCH : Before 14h39 (UTC), a root day under the descending waning gibbous moon — underground energy is concentrated and the soil receptive. Sow black salsify ('Duplex') and long-rooted radish ('Gaudry') in deep module trays (minimum 12 cm), pressing seeds 8–10 mm deep into gritty, pre-moistened compost; keep at 12–15 °C for steady germination. Swede ('Marian') and kohlrabi ('Superschmelz') can follow the same treatment in separate trays, spacing rows 10 cm apart once pricked out. Under a cold frame or polytunnel, check overwintering leeks ('Bleu de Solaise') and parsley roots at soil level — remove any soft or rotting material and top-dress with a thin layer of well-aged compost to maintain soil structure. On sandy soils, water module trays with a fine rose to avoid displacing seeds; on heavy clay, ensure trays drain freely to prevent damping off. / After 14h39 (UTC), the moon shifts to a flower day — a welcome change worth acting on before dusk. Sow sweet peas ('Matucana' or 'Cupani') in tall root trainers filled with a peat-free seed compost, placing one seed per cell at 2 cm depth; pinch the growing tip once two pairs of leaves appear to encourage branching. Under glass, pot on any wallflower ('Bowles Mauve') seedlings started last autumn into 9 cm pots using a loam-based compost.
ORCHARD : Verify the condition of any dormant grafts or cuttings stored over winter — fig, quince, and medlar cuttings held in damp sand should show no sign of mould; dust affected sections lightly with powdered sulphur and return them to cool storage. If bare-root gooseberry and redcurrant bushes are still awaiting planting, heel them into a sheltered corner of the garden to prevent root desiccation until conditions improve.
INDOORS : Check on chitted potato tubers ('Charlotte' or 'Rocket') placed in egg boxes near a bright window — chits should be short, green, and sturdy (no more than 2 cm); discard any tubers showing soft spots. Amaryllis bulbs that have finished flowering can be cut back to 5 cm above the bulb, then fed with a balanced liquid fertiliser at half strength to rebuild energy for next season.
LANDSCAPING : Before 12h00 (UTC), a flower day under the descending Last Quarter moon — a quiet, focused energy that suits ornamental work beautifully. Prune winter-flowering shrubs like Viburnum x bodnantense and Chimonanthus praecox once their blooms begin to fade, cutting stems back by one third to encourage vigorous new growth; use clean, sharp secateurs and seal larger cuts with wound paste. Divide established clumps of hellebores ('Harvington Pink', 'Double Ellen White') carefully with a garden fork, replanting sections 30–40 cm apart in humus-rich, well-drained soil. On milder days, sow sweet peas ('Matucana', 'Cupani') in deep root trainers filled with peat-free seed compost, pressing seeds 2 cm deep; place on a cool windowsill at 10–13 °C to build sturdy stems. In Mediterranean climates, anemones and ranunculus can be planted directly outdoors now, 5 cm deep and 15 cm apart, in a sunny, sheltered bed.
VEGETABLE PATCH : After 12h00 (UTC), the moon shifts to a leaf day — a welcome change that turns attention above ground. Sow spinach ('Medania'), lamb's lettuce ('Vit') and claytonia in module trays or shallow seed trays under a cold frame, scattering seeds thinly and covering with 5 mm of fine compost; these hardy greens germinate reliably at 8–12 °C and will bulk up quickly once light improves. Mizuna and pak choi can follow the same treatment, spaced 10 cm apart once pricked out. Check overwintering Swiss chard and kale ('Nero di Toscana') for aphid colonies sheltering in the leaf axils — remove affected leaves and water the base with a diluted seaweed solution (5 ml per litre) to strengthen plant immunity. On heavy soils, avoid treading on beds; work from a plank to preserve soil structure.
INDOORS : A still winter morning is a good moment to assess your propagation setup. Prick out any aubergine ('Listada de Gandia') or pepper ('Corno di Toro') seedlings started in January into 7 cm pots filled with a peat-free multipurpose compost mixed with 20% perlite, handling each seedling by a leaf rather than the fragile stem. Feed young tomato seedlings ('Costoluto Fiorentino', 'Tigerella') with a half-strength balanced liquid fertiliser (2.5 ml per litre) to sustain growth without forcing leggy stems. Keep propagator temperatures steady at 18–20 °C and ensure trays sit away from cold draughts near windows.
INDOORS : A leaf day under the descending Last Quarter moon — sap is drawn gently downward, making this a fine moment to tend foliage crops and houseplants that have been waiting for attention. Prick out seedlings of spinach ('Medania', 'Viroflay') and Swiss chard ('Bright Lights', 'Fordhook Giant') into 7 cm modules filled with peat-free multipurpose compost, handling each plantlet by its seed leaf rather than the fragile stem. If you started Chinese cabbage ('Yuki') or pak choi ('Joi Choi') under glass last week, check root development and pot on into 9 cm pots once roots reach the module base. Mist the foliage of overwintering celery and celeriac seedlings lightly to maintain humidity, but avoid wetting the growing point to reduce the risk of damping off.
VEGETABLE PATCH : A steady leaf day continues — a good window for leafy crops under cover. Sow kale ('Nero di Toscana', 'Red Russian') and perpetual spinach in module trays (6 cm depth), pressing seeds 5 mm deep into moist, fine-grade compost; maintain 12–15 °C for reliable germination. Lettuce ('Winter Density', 'Rouge Grenobloise') sown now in a cold frame or unheated polytunnel will establish slowly but reward you with a compact, flavoursome cut-and-come-again harvest from April onward. Top-dress overwintering mâche (corn salad) and land cress rows with a thin layer of sieved garden compost — roughly 1 cm — to feed the soil without smothering the low rosettes. In Mediterranean climates or mild coastal areas, direct-sow rocket ('Selvatica') thinly along a sheltered south-facing bed, spacing rows 20 cm apart.
LANDSCAPING : Clip back the tired outer leaves of evergreen sedges (Carex morrowii, Carex oshimensis 'Evergold') with a pair of hand shears, removing only the brown tips to keep the clump tidy without stressing the plant. Divide overgrown clumps of Liriope muscari now, separating sections with a sharp spade and replanting 25–30 cm apart in humus-rich soil — they will fill in quickly once temperatures rise. Apply a 3 cm mulch of leaf mould around the base of hostas and astilbes to protect emerging crowns from late frost and suppress early weed germination.
INDOORS : A leaf day under the descending Waning Crescent — sap moves quietly downward, concentrating energy in foliage tissues and making this a particularly productive moment for indoor greens. Sow kale ('Nero di Toscana', 'Red Russian') in 7 cm modules filled with peat-free multipurpose compost, pressing seeds 5 mm deep and keeping trays at 15–18 °C for germination within 5–7 days / Pot on young lettuce seedlings ('Merveille des Quatre Saisons', 'Winter Density') into 9 cm pots once roots show at the base — a 50/50 mix of multipurpose and perlite keeps drainage sharp and reduces damping off / Check overwintering endive ('Cornet de Bordeaux') and mâche (corn salad) under glass: remove yellowing outer leaves cleanly with scissors, then water sparingly at the base to avoid crown rot / In a Mediterranean climate or heated greenhouse, you can sow a first tray of basil ('Genovese') at 20 °C — a small early gamble that pays off by April.
VEGETABLE PATCH : Frosty mornings are still very much on the cards, so focus on soil preparation rather than direct sowing outdoors. Work a 3–4 cm layer of well-rotted manure into beds earmarked for brassicas — Brussels sprouts ('Trafalgar'), spring cabbage ('Hispi') — using a border fork to incorporate it 15 cm deep without disturbing soil structure / If you have a cold frame free, rake a fine seedbed and sow a short row of early turnip ('Milan Purple Top') 1 cm deep, 10 cm between rows; the descending moon suits root-adjacent leaf crops well / Inspect any overwintering chard ('Perpetual Spinach') and remove damaged stems at ground level to prevent botrytis spreading into the crown as temperatures begin to fluctuate / On heavy soils, avoid walking on beds; lay a plank to distribute weight and protect the structure you have built up over winter.
LANDSCAPING : Yesterday's ornamental work may have left some beds tidied — today, turn attention to climbing and wall-trained plants. Tie in new shoots of winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) loosely with soft twine before they thicken and become brittle / Trim back any wind-damaged stems on Garrya elliptica and Clematis cirrhosa, cutting just above a healthy bud with clean secateurs / Spread a 5 cm mulch of composted bark around the base of Camellia japonica and Skimmia japonica, keeping it 10 cm clear of the stems — this retains soil moisture and moderates root temperature through the remaining cold weeks / If snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) are finishing their display, divide congested clumps now while still 'in the green', replanting at 8–10 cm depth and 10 cm spacing in humus-rich, lightly shaded soil for stronger flowering next year.
VEGETABLE PATCH : Before 13h07 (UTC), a leaf day under the descending Waning Crescent — sap draws gently downward, concentrating vitality in foliage tissues and making this a focused window for leafy crops. Sow claytonia (miner's lettuce), rocket ('Skyrocket', 'Wasabi') and mizuna under glass in shallow trays, pressing seeds 3–4 mm deep into peat-free seed compost kept at 12–15 °C; germination typically follows within 5–8 days / Pot on overwintered chard seedlings ('Bright Yellow', 'Rhubarb Chard') into 9 cm pots using a 60/40 blend of multipurpose compost and fine grit to keep drainage crisp and discourage root rot / Check overwintering tatsoi and land cress under fleece or cold frames: remove any yellowing leaves at the base with clean scissors to improve airflow and reduce botrytis pressure — a task that takes minutes but makes a real difference through February.
ORCHARD : After 13h07 (UTC), the shift to a fruit day opens a productive afternoon for orchard work. Inspect dormant apple ('Cox's Orange Pippin', 'Bramley') and pear ('Conference', 'Williams') trees for canker lesions: pare back infected bark to clean wood with a sharp knife, then apply a copper-based wound sealant to limit reinfection / On milder days, complete the winter pruning of quince and medlar, removing crossing branches and any dead wood to open the canopy — aim for a goblet shape that lets light reach the centre / In Mediterranean climates or sheltered south-facing plots, you can already tie in new raspberry canes ('Autumn Bliss', 'Glen Ample') to wires at 30 cm intervals, cutting old fruited canes to ground level; this stimulates strong basal shoots before the season accelerates.
ORCHARD : Frost still lingers on the bark this morning — a quiet reminder that the ascending Waning Crescent is drawing sap gently upward toward fruiting wood. Prune apple ('Cox's Orange Pippin', 'Bramley') and pear ('Conference', 'Williams') while trees remain fully dormant: remove crossing branches with clean loppers, cutting at a 45° angle 5 mm above an outward-facing bud to channel future growth outward / Check quince and medlar for canker lesions; pare back affected wood to clean tissue and seal larger cuts (over 2 cm diameter) with wound paste to limit fungal entry / Inspect stored quinces and apples in the shed — remove any showing soft spots before rot spreads to neighbours / In milder regions, fan-trained peach and nectarine on south-facing walls can receive a light thinning of three-year-old wood now; tie in young replacement shoots at 15–20 cm spacing.
VEGETABLE PATCH : Scan the cold frame — are your overwintering broad beans ('Aquadulce Claudia', 'The Sutton') still standing firm? Pinch out any blackfly-colonised shoot tips immediately and earth up stems to 8–10 cm if frost is forecast / Under glass, sow tomato ('Gardener's Delight', 'Sungold') and sweet pepper ('Marconi Rosso', 'Corno di Toro') in 7 cm modules filled with peat-free seed compost, pressing seeds 5 mm deep; maintain a tray temperature of 20–22 °C for reliable germination within 8–12 days — starting now gives transplants a solid head start before March / Transplant autumn-sown onion sets ('Radar', 'Senshyu Yellow') into deep trays under a cold frame if outdoor beds remain waterlogged; space 8 cm apart in rows 10 cm wide.
LANDSCAPING : Bare-stemmed winter shrubs reveal their structure honestly right now. Tackle the last of the rose pruning on hybrid teas and floribundas: cut stems back to 30–45 cm, always to an outward-facing bud, and collect all prunings to reduce black spot spore load / Top-dress established clematis (Group 1 varieties only — do not cut) with a 5 cm layer of well-rotted garden compost around the crown, keeping it clear of the main stem / Sandy soils: fork a bucket of garden compost per square metre around fruit trees and ornamental shrubs now, before spring growth pulls nutrients down.
ORCHARD : The ascending Waning Crescent pulls sap gently upward into fruiting wood — a quiet but real advantage for any work focused on fruit-bearing trees and shrubs today. Train young fan-trained peach ('Rochester', 'Peregrine') and nectarine ('Lord Napier') against a south-facing wall: tie in selected shoots with soft twine at 15 cm intervals, removing any frost-damaged tips back to a healthy bud / Assess dormant plum ('Victoria', 'Czar') and damson for silver leaf risk — prune only on dry days, cutting cleanly 10–15 cm below any discoloured wood and sealing cuts over 1.5 cm with grafting wax to block spore entry / Check established fig ('Brown Turkey') for dead wood; snap out brittle stems and mulch the root zone with 5–8 cm of well-rotted compost, keeping the mulch 10 cm clear of the trunk / In Mediterranean climates or mild coastal gardens, begin dormant grafting of pear onto quince rootstock while temperatures remain below 10 °C — union takes better when both stock and scion are fully at rest.
VEGETABLE PATCH : Before 22h57 (UTC), the fruit energy of the ascending moon favours work on tomato, pepper and aubergine — all crops where the harvest is botanically a fruit. Sow tomato ('Sungold', 'Black Krim') and sweet pepper ('Marconi Rosso', 'Corno di Toro') in 7 cm modules filled with peat-free seed compost, pressing seeds 3–4 mm deep and maintaining a propagator temperature of 20–22 °C; expect germination in 7–10 days / Start a first batch of aubergine ('Violetta di Firenze') now — they need the longest lead time of any Solanaceae and benefit from bottom heat / After 22h57 (UTC), the shift to a root day changes the focus: direct attention to parsnip ('Tender and True', 'Gladiator'), scorzonera and salsify; prepare deep, stone-free drills 30 cm apart ready for sowing once soil temperatures reach 7 °C, and incorporate a light dressing of sharp sand (one bucketful per metre of row) to ease germination in heavier ground / Check stored celeriac ('Monarch') and beetroot ('Chioggia') in the clamp — firm roots with no soft patches can stay; anything yielding to gentle pressure should come out now.
LANDSCAPING : Bare stems and low winter light make structural planting decisions surprisingly clear. Prune ornamental crab apple ('Evereste', 'John Downie') while dormant: remove congested crossing growth with clean loppers at a 45° angle, keeping the canopy open to air and future light / Cut back the previous year's growth on Cornus alba ('Sibirica') and Cornus sanguinea ('Midwinter Fire') to within 2–3 buds of the base — hard pruning now triggers the vivid young stems that carry winter colour next year, since it's the newest wood that colours most intensely / Divide and replant snowdrop ('Galanthus nivalis', 'Flore Pleno') clumps while still 'in the green': lift with a fork, tease apart gently and replant at 8–10 cm depth and 10 cm spacing in humus-rich soil under deciduous trees for a natural drift effect.
VEGETABLE PATCH : The ascending Waning Crescent keeps energy moving upward through the soil profile, but with the New Moon just 48 hours away, root crops benefit most from consolidation rather than disturbance today. Sow parsnip ('Hollow Crown', 'Gladiator') directly into deep, stone-free drills 1 cm deep and 30 cm apart — parsnip seed loses viability quickly, so always use fresh stock from this season / Sow scorzonera and salsify in modules under cold glass, pressing seeds 1.5 cm deep into a 50/50 mix of seed compost and sharp sand; both germinate better with slight bottom heat around 10–12 °C / Firm in any loose soil around overwintering celeriac ('Monarch', 'Brilliant') and Hamburg parsley — a gentle press with the back of a trowel re-establishes root contact and reduces frost-heave damage / If you have a cold frame free, start a short row of early beetroot ('Boltardy', 'Pablo') in deep root trainers to avoid disturbing the taproot at transplant time.
LANDSCAPING : Bare soil around ornamental grasses and hardy perennials deserves attention before the next cold snap. Top-dress around established kniphofia and agapanthus crowns with a 4–5 cm layer of composted bark — this insulates without smothering the emerging growth points and suppresses early weed germination / Divide and replant congested clumps of liriope and ophiopogon now while the ground is workable: split with two back-to-back forks, replant sections 20–25 cm apart and water in with 1 litre per plant to settle roots / In Mediterranean-climate gardens or sheltered south-facing borders, this is a reasonable window to cut back the previous year's stems of penstemon ('Husker Red', 'Garnet') to 10 cm, encouraging compact regrowth from the base.
INDOORS : Cyclamen, clivia and forced hyacinth bulbs in pots are finishing their display — rather than discarding them, reduce watering gradually over two weeks to ease them into dormancy and store pots on their sides in a cool, frost-free shed until autumn / Check the compost in succulent and cacti pots: if it feels damp more than 2 cm below the surface, hold off watering entirely until late March; overwatering in low-light winter conditions is the single most common cause of root rot in these plants.
VEGETABLE PATCH : With the New Moon less than 24 hours away, root energy is drawing inward — a quiet but purposeful moment to focus on what grows underground. Sow beetroot ('Boltardy', 'Chioggia') in module trays under cold glass, pressing seeds 2 cm deep into a free-draining compost mix; soak seeds in warm water for an hour beforehand to soften the corky coat and speed germination / Direct-sow turnip ('Purple Top Milan', 'Tokyo Cross') in shallow drills 1 cm deep, 25 cm between rows, in a sheltered bed or cold frame — the waning energy encourages strong root initiation rather than leafy sprawl / Divide and replant established clumps of chicory ('Witloof') into deep containers of sandy loam, burying crowns just below the surface at 10 cm spacing to force tender chicons over the coming weeks / In Mediterranean or mild-climate gardens, this is a good window to direct-sow radish ('French Breakfast', 'Sparkler') outdoors; elsewhere, keep them under a cloche for reliable germination above 8 °C.
ORCHARD : Bare-root raspberry canes ('Autumn Bliss', 'Glen Ample') planted now in well-prepared trenches 8 cm deep and 40 cm apart will establish quietly before spring growth pushes through — work in a generous handful of well-rotted manure per metre of row to feed the developing root system / Check stored root-grafted gooseberry and red currant bushes: if roots have dried slightly, stand them in a bucket of water for 90 minutes before heeling in temporarily / Inspect dormant blackcurrant ('Ben Lomond', 'Ben Sarek') for big bud mite — squeeze swollen buds between fingers and discard affected stems entirely; do not compost them.
INDOORS : Seed potatoes ('Charlotte', 'Rocket', 'Maris Piper') set out to chit on a bright, cool windowsill now will develop sturdy 2 cm sprouts by planting time — stand them rose-end up in egg boxes at around 10 °C to keep growth compact and avoid leggy shoots / Check stored carrots and celeriac in the cellar: trim any soft tissue with a clean knife, dust cut surfaces lightly with wood ash to discourage further rot, and keep remaining roots cool and slightly ventilated.
LANDSCAPING : Before 09h33 (UTC), the Moon sits in a root-friendly sign — a brief but genuine window to firm in any bare-root hedging plants such as hawthorn ('Paul's Scarlet'), blackthorn or field maple before the ground hardens again overnight / Work a 5 cm layer of well-rotted manure around the base of dormant rose bushes ('Gertrude Jekyll', 'Reine des Violettes'), keeping it 10 cm clear of the main stem to avoid collar rot; this feeds the soil biology ahead of spring root flush / Check ties on newly planted standard trees — loosen any that have tightened over winter to prevent bark chafing as stems begin to swell.
VEGETABLE PATCH : After 09h33 (UTC), the New Moon arrives at 12h01 (UTC) and the day shifts to a flower-energy signature — a quiet but purposeful reset that suits sowing plants grown primarily for their blooms or their above-ground harvest / Under cold glass or a frost-free polytunnel, sow sweet pea ('Matucana', 'Cupani') in deep root-trainers filled with a 50/50 mix of seed compost and grit, pressing each seed 2 cm deep; soaking seeds overnight in tepid water beforehand accelerates germination by softening the hard testa / Sow calendula ('Indian Prince', 'Art Shades') and cornflower ('Blue Ball') in module trays, 1 seed per cell at 1 cm depth — both tolerate cool conditions down to 5 °C and will produce sturdy transplants by late March / In Mediterranean or mild coastal gardens, direct-sow annual larkspur in a sheltered border now; elsewhere, keep sowings under cover.
INDOORS : The New Moon marks a natural pause — use this reset to audit your seed collection rather than starting new trays / Check germination viability of older stocks: place 10 seeds of tomato ('Gardener's Delight', 'San Marzano'), pepper ('Marconi Rosso') or aubergine ('Violette de Florence') between two damp sheets of kitchen paper in a warm spot (18–20 °C) for 5–7 days to test germination rate before committing to a full sowing / Refresh the growing medium in any pots of overwintering pelargonium or fuchsia: scrape away the top 3–4 cm and replace with fresh peat-free compost mixed with a pinch of slow-release fertiliser to support the first flush of new growth.
LANDSCAPING : The ascending Waxing Crescent carries sap upward with quiet determination — a genuine ally for flowering ornamentals today. Sow sweet peas ('Matucana', 'Cupani', 'Spencer Mixed') in deep root trainers filled with a 50/50 mix of multipurpose compost and sharp sand, pressing seeds 2 cm deep; pre-soak overnight to soften the seed coat and trigger faster germination / Plant out pot-grown winter aconites (Eranthis hyemalis) and snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis 'Flore Pleno') while still 'in the green' — spacing bulbs 8–10 cm apart in dappled shade, firming gently with your knuckles / Apply a 3 cm top-dressing of leaf mould around hellebores ('Anna's Red', 'Double Ellen White') to feed surface roots without smothering the crown; keep it 5 cm clear of the stem base / In milder coastal or Mediterranean gardens, deadhead winter-flowering viburnum (Viburnum x bodnantense 'Dawn') to redirect energy into fresh bud formation.
VEGETABLE PATCH : A thin frost still clings to the soil surface at dawn, but the rising Moon energy is already working in your favour for flower-type crops. Under cold glass or a polytunnel, sow globe artichoke ('Romanesco', 'Violet de Provence') in 9 cm pots, 1 seed per pot, 1 cm deep in a peat-free seed compost kept at 15–18 °C — they reward patience with a spectacular harvest / Sow Florence fennel ('Zefa Fino', 'Romanesco') in module trays, 2 seeds per cell, thinning to the strongest; fennel dislikes root disturbance so modules are far preferable to open drills at this stage / Transplant overwintered broad beans ('Aquadulce Claudia') started last autumn into their final positions, 20 cm apart in double rows 45 cm wide, firming each plant in well to resist wind rock / On heavy clay soils, delay outdoor work until the surface crumbles rather than smears — work from a plank to avoid compaction.
INDOORS : The lunar node crosses at 06h17 (UTC), adding a subtle but real shift in energy — a good moment to attend to plants that flower under cover. Repot forced hyacinths ('Delft Blue', 'City of Haarlem') once blooms fade, moving them into fresh loam-based compost in slightly larger pots so bulbs can rebuild their reserves for next year / Feed indoor cyclamen and kalanchoe with a half-strength high-potash liquid fertiliser (roughly 2 ml per litre of water) to sustain flowering without pushing excessive leafy growth / Check amaryllis (Hippeastrum) bulbs resting in their pots — if new nose tips are visible, resume watering gradually and move to a brighter windowsill; the ascending Moon supports this awakening.
LANDSCAPING : Before 09h25 (UTC), the Moon still favours flowers — a short but genuine window worth seizing. Sow stocks (Matthiola incana 'Cinderella Mixed') and wallflowers (Erysimum cheiri 'Blood Red') in 9 cm pots under cold glass, covering seeds with just 5 mm of fine compost; the ascending Waxing Crescent draws sap upward, supporting early shoot vigour / Pot up rooted cuttings of osteospermum and argyranthemum into 12 cm pots using a peat-free multipurpose mix with 20% perlite for drainage — firm gently and water sparingly to avoid stem rot at this cold stage / In mild-climate gardens, deadhead any lingering winter-flowering violas and apply a light liquid seaweed feed (5 ml per litre) to encourage a fresh flush before the sign shifts.
VEGETABLE PATCH : After 09h25 (UTC), the Moon moves into a leaf-friendly sign — the day opens up nicely for all things green and leafy. Sow spinach ('Medania', 'Perpetual') in module trays under a cold frame, pressing two seeds per cell at 1 cm depth into a moist, fine-textured compost; thin to one seedling once germinated — leaf-day energy supports lush, tender growth rather than bolting / Direct-sow land cress and corn salad (mâche 'Vit') in shallow 1 cm drills, 20 cm between rows, in a sheltered raised bed or cold greenhouse; both tolerate near-freezing nights and germinate reliably from late February onward / Transplant overwintered pak choi and mustard greens ('Red Frills', 'Golden Streaks') into a polytunnel bed, spacing plants 25 cm apart — the ascending moon encourages strong upward leaf development, so water in well with room-temperature water after planting.
INDOORS : A steady hand and a sharp eye make all the difference at this time of year. Check overwintering lettuce seedlings ('Winter Density', 'Rouge d'Hiver') on a bright windowsill: if they have reached 5–6 cm, prick out into individual 7 cm pots to prevent drawn, leggy growth — crowded roots compete for nutrients and slow leaf expansion / Refresh the top 3 cm of compost in pots of growing microgreens (pea shoots, sunflower, radish 'Rambo') and resow a new tray to maintain a rolling harvest; on heavy-soil plots or in colder northern gardens, this indoor succession is especially worthwhile when outdoor beds remain waterlogged.
VEGETABLE PATCH : The ascending Waxing Crescent pulls sap steadily upward — a solid ally for leafy crops that thrive on that upward energy. Sow spinach ('Medania', 'Giant Winter') in module trays filled with a fine seed compost, pressing seeds 1 cm deep and spacing two seeds per cell; thin to the strongest seedling once 3 cm tall / Direct-sow lamb's lettuce (corn salad) and mizuna under a cold frame or polytunnel, scattering thinly in rows 15 cm apart and covering lightly with 5 mm of sieved compost — both handle near-freezing nights without complaint / Start broad beans ('Aquadulce Claudia') in root trainers if you haven't yet: sow one bean per cell at 5 cm depth, keep at 10–12 °C, and expect shoots within 10 days / In Mediterranean or mild-coastal gardens, direct-sow pak choi and tatsoi outdoors in a sheltered bed, watering in with a fine rose to settle the soil without crusting.
INDOORS : A windowsill tray of microgreens takes less space than a seed catalogue but delivers more satisfaction in February. Fill a shallow tray (5 cm deep) with damp multipurpose compost, scatter pea shoots ('Meteor'), sunflower microgreens or mustard ('Red Frills') densely across the surface, press down gently and cover with a second tray for 48 hours to encourage even germination / Check overwintering pelargoniums and fuchsias for grey mould (Botrytis): remove any affected leaves with clean scissors and improve air circulation by spacing pots at least 8 cm apart — crowded plants in cold rooms are the main culprit / Water houseplants sparingly; most only need a drink when the top 3 cm of compost feels dry to the touch, as roots in cold, wet compost quickly rot.
LANDSCAPING : Bare hedgerows have a quiet honesty about them this time of year — and they're easier to work with than you'd think. Prune established deciduous hedges of beech (Fagus sylvatica), hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) and hazel (Corylus avellana) now while fully dormant: cut back last season's growth by one-third with sharp loppers, working from the base upward to keep a slight taper that lets light reach the lower stems / Apply a 4 cm mulch of composted bark around the base of newly planted shrubs — keep it 10 cm clear of stems to deter vole damage and prevent collar rot; this also locks in residual soil moisture ahead of drying March winds / On sandy or free-draining soils, fork in a 5 cm layer of well-rotted garden compost around dormant ornamental grasses before they begin to stir; this feeds slowly and improves moisture retention without waterlogging.
INDOORS : A quiet observation worth noting — leafy houseplants respond remarkably well to the ascending Waxing Crescent right now. Repot overcrowded ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata, Asplenium nidus) into pots one size up, using a peat-free mix with 15% perlite for drainage; water in with 200 ml of room-temperature water per 12 cm pot / Divide clumps of peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii) by teasing roots apart gently rather than cutting — each division needs at least three healthy leaves and a visible root mass / Sow chilli seeds ('Cayenne', 'Hungarian Hot Wax') in 7 cm pots filled with fine seed compost, pressing 2–3 seeds per pot at 5 mm depth; place on a heated propagator set to 22–24 °C for reliable germination — they need warmth now to be productive by summer / Mediterranean-climate gardeners growing under glass can also start aubergine ('Violetta di Firenze') at this stage.
VEGETABLE PATCH : Before 22h47 (UTC), the Moon favours leafy crops — a solid window for sowing and transplanting under cover. Direct-sow claytonia (miner's lettuce), land cress, and pak choi ('Canton Dwarf') in cold-frame beds, spacing rows 20 cm apart and covering seeds with 5 mm of sieved compost / Prick out kale ('Nero di Toscana') and Swiss chard ('Bright Lights') seedlings started last week into 9 cm pots, handling by the seed leaves to avoid bruising stems / On heavier soils, work in a 3 cm layer of well-rotted compost before transplanting — this improves drainage and adds slow-release nutrients that leafy crops draw on steadily.
ORCHARD : After 22h47 (UTC), the Moon shifts to a fruit-day energy — a natural cue to turn attention to fruiting trees and shrubs. Finish winter pruning of apple ('Egremont Russet', 'Cox's Orange Pippin') and pear ('Conference', 'Williams') trees while fully dormant: remove crossing branches with a clean pruning saw, cutting just outside the branch collar at a slight angle / Seal larger wounds over 2 cm diameter with a breathable wound paste to reduce silver leaf and canker entry / Check stored quince and late-season pears for rot; remove any soft fruit immediately to prevent spread / In mild regions, inspect fig branches for signs of new buds swelling — a reassuring sign that dormancy is easing.
ORCHARD : The ascending Waxing Crescent is doing its quiet work, drawing sap toward shoots and buds — exactly what fruit trees need right now. Plant bare-root apple ('Cox's Orange Pippin', 'Bramley's Seedling') and pear ('Conference', 'Williams' Bon Chrétien') trees while the soil is still workable: dig a hole 60 cm wide and 40 cm deep, loosen the base with a fork, and set the tree so the graft union sits 5–8 cm above soil level / Spread a 7 cm mulch of well-rotted compost in a 60 cm radius around the trunk, keeping it clear of the bark to prevent rot / On established quince and medlar, check for any crossing or rubbing branches and remove them cleanly with a sharp pruning saw; seal cuts over 2 cm diameter with wound paste / In Mediterranean or mild-coastal gardens, you can also plant fig cuttings ('Brown Turkey', 'Violette de Bordeaux') in 15 cm pots of gritty compost now, burying two-thirds of the cutting length.
VEGETABLE PATCH : A good frost-free spell is the signal to get tomato seeds started under cover — not in the open ground yet, but on a warm windowsill or propagator. Sow cherry tomato varieties ('Gardener's Delight', 'Sweet Million', 'Sungold') two seeds per 7 cm pot at 1 cm depth in fine seed compost; maintain 20–22 °C for germination within 7–10 days / Alongside, start aubergine ('Moneymaker', 'Black Beauty') in the same conditions — they need a long season and appreciate the ascending moon's upward pull / Check overwintering kale and chard under fleece: strip any yellowed outer leaves to improve airflow and reduce botrytis risk / On sandy or free-draining soils, firm any frost-lifted garlic cloves back into the soil with gentle heel pressure.
INDOORS : Fruit-bearing houseplants respond well to today's energy. If you have a dwarf citrus (lemon 'Eureka', calamondin) showing pale new growth, feed with a specialist citrus fertiliser at half the recommended dose — roughly 5 ml per litre of water — to correct the magnesium and iron deficiencies that winter light tends to trigger / Repot cape gooseberry (Physalis peruviana) seedlings started last month into 12 cm pots using a peat-free mix with 20% perlite; water in with 150 ml of room-temperature water and place on the brightest available sill / Wipe dust from the leaves of fruiting olive trees kept indoors — cleaner leaves capture more of the low winter light, directly improving photosynthesis over the weeks ahead.
ORCHARD : Before 12h00 (UTC), the ascending Waxing Crescent lends its upward energy to fruit work — a fine window for grafting and planting. Set out bare-root plum ('Victoria', 'Marjorie's Seedling') and cherry ('Stella', 'Morello') trees in prepared holes 50 cm wide and 40 cm deep, loosening the base with a garden fork and positioning the graft union 5–8 cm above soil level / Work a generous handful of bonemeal (roughly 100 g per tree) into the backfill to support root establishment over the coming weeks — phosphorus encourages anchoring roots rather than lush top growth at this stage / On established fig and mulberry, remove any deadwood cleanly with a sharp pruning saw, cutting back to healthy wood; the ascending moon helps sap move away from wounds more efficiently / In milder Mediterranean gardens, fan-trained peach ('Peregrine') and nectarine ('Lord Napier') can receive a first light thinning of overcrowded spurs now.
VEGETABLE PATCH : After 12h00 (UTC), the day shifts to a root energy — redirect your attention below ground. Sow Hamburg parsley, scorzonera, and salsify directly into root trainers filled with a gritty, free-draining compost; place two seeds per cell at 1 cm depth and keep at 12–15 °C for steady germination / Under a cold frame or polytunnel, draw shallow drills 20 cm apart and sow an early carrot ('Amsterdam Forcing', 'Nantes 2') at roughly 1 cm depth, covering with a fine layer of sieved compost — the root-day energy supports strong taproot development from the outset / If you have celeriac seedlings started earlier indoors, pot them on into 9 cm containers now using a loam-based mix; they appreciate the transition before a final outdoor planting in April / On heavy soils, hold off direct outdoor sowing until the ground warms further — a cloche placed now for 10–14 days will make a real difference to soil temperature.
INDOORS : Tender root vegetables grown under glass deserve attention today too. Check stored dahlia tubers and begonia corms for signs of shrivelling or rot; dust any soft spots with powdered cinnamon, which acts as a gentle natural fungicide, and set aside any badly affected tubers / Pot up the first ranunculus corms ('Bloomingdale' mix) in 15 cm pots, placing them claw-side down at 3 cm depth in a peat-free, well-drained compost; keep at 8–10 °C near a bright window to encourage compact, sturdy growth before moving outdoors / Water sparingly — once every 10–12 days is ample at this stage; overwatering dormant corms is the most common cause of failure at this time of year.
VEGETABLE PATCH : The First Quarter arrives at 12:27 (UTC) today, marking a turning point — before that moment, the ascending moon still favours root work, so get your hands into the soil early. Sow parsnip ('Gladiator', 'Tender and True') directly in deep, stone-free drills 1 cm deep and 30 cm apart; parsnip needs a long season and resents transplanting, so direct sowing now, even under a cloche, gives it the head start it deserves / Sow beetroot ('Boltardy', 'Chioggia') in module trays filled with a fine seed compost, two seeds per cell at 2 cm depth, thinning to one seedling once germinated — 'Boltardy' is particularly bolt-resistant, a real advantage for early sowings / Celeriac ('Monarch', 'Prinz') can go into a heated propagator at 18–20 °C now: press seeds onto the surface of moist compost without covering, as light aids germination / After 12:27 (UTC), the quarter moon shifts the energy upward — a natural pause from root work; use the afternoon to top-dress overwintered leeks and kale with a thin layer of well-rotted manure (3–4 cm), which will slowly feed the soil ahead of spring growth.
INDOORS : A handful of root cuttings started last month may already be showing their first tentative shoots — check pots of dahlia ('Bishop of Llandaff', 'Karma Choc') and Japanese anemone tubers stored in barely moist compost; if pale shoots are visible, move them closer to a bright window to green up without etiolating / Sow tomato ('Tigerella', 'Ailsa Craig') and aubergine ('Violetta di Firenze') seeds in 7 cm pots at 5 mm depth, placing on a propagator set to 20–22 °C — aubergine is slower to germinate than tomato and benefits from consistent bottom heat / In milder regions or under glass, pot on overwintered geranium (Pelargonium zonale) cuttings rooted in autumn into 10 cm pots with a loam-based compost; a pinch of slow-release granular fertiliser (5 g per pot) at this stage supports the first flush of spring growth.
VEGETABLE PATCH : A frosty morning light catches the soil crust — a good sign that the ground is firm enough to work without compacting. The ascending Waxing Gibbous draws energy downward into root systems, making this a strong day for sowing and tending root crops. Sow Hamburg parsley ('Berliner') and scorzonera ('Maxima') directly in shallow drills 1 cm deep, rows 25 cm apart, under a cloche if nights remain sharp / Sow turnip ('Purple Top Milan', 'Atlantic') in module trays at 1 cm depth, two seeds per cell, thinning to one — turnips germinate quickly and reward early starts under cover / Sow radish ('French Breakfast', 'Black Spanish Round') directly in a cold frame, spacing seeds 3 cm apart in rows 15 cm apart; they'll be ready in 4–5 weeks and make excellent catch crops between slower-maturing roots / On heavier soils, work a light dressing of sharp sand (a 2 cm layer forked in to 15 cm) into beds destined for carrots and parsnips — this improves drainage and reduces forking, which is the main enemy of straight roots.
INDOORS : Yesterday's root-sowing energy carries through today, so module trays started earlier in the week deserve a check. Inspect germinating celeriac ('Monarch', 'Prinz') and kohlrabi seedlings under grow lights or on a bright south-facing sill — if the first true leaves are showing pale green edges, a dilute liquid seaweed feed (5 ml per litre, once a week) will steady growth without forcing it / Pot on any crowded leek or onion ('Sturon', 'Red Baron') seedlings into individual 7 cm pots filled with a loam-based compost, burying the stem slightly deeper than before to encourage a longer white shank / Check the moisture level of overwintering dahlia tubers in storage: they should feel firm and slightly cool to the touch — if any feel soft or show grey mould, trim back to healthy tissue with a clean knife and dust the cut with powdered sulphur before returning them to dry sand.
VEGETABLE PATCH : Before 17h11 (UTC), the descending Waxing Gibbous moon channels its energy into the soil — a reliable window for root crops that deserve your full attention today. Sow salsify ('Mammoth Sandwich Island') and black radish ('Nero Tondo') in deep drills 1.5 cm deep, rows 30 cm apart, under a cold frame if night temperatures are still dipping below 3 °C / Sow celeriac ('Prinz', 'Brilliant') in module trays filled with fine seed compost at 0.5 cm depth — these slow germinators benefit from a heat mat set at 18 °C and reward patience with dense, flavourful crowns / Thin last week's Hamburg parsley and scorzonera seedlings to 10 cm apart, using scissors at soil level to avoid disturbing neighbouring roots / On sandy soils, incorporate a 3 cm layer of well-rotted compost into the drill before sowing to retain moisture around germinating seeds — root crops establish far more evenly when the soil holds a little warmth and water.
LANDSCAPING : After 17h11 (UTC), the moon shifts to a flower day — a welcome change of tempo as the afternoon light softens. Deadhead any overwintered wallflowers ('Bowles's Mauve', 'Blood Red') by cutting spent stems back to a healthy side shoot, which encourages a second flush of bloom / Sow sweet William ('Auricula-Eyed Mixed', 'Electron Mix') in module trays at 0.5 cm depth — these biennial beauties germinate reliably under glass at 15 °C and will reward you with fragrant clusters next spring / If you have established clumps of hellebore, remove old foliage at the base now to expose the developing flower stems and reduce botrytis risk / Under cover in milder regions, sow nemesia ('Sundrop') and diascia ('Coral Belle') at 18 °C — both are compact, floriferous and excellent for spring containers.
LANDSCAPING : A descending Waxing Gibbous moon in a flower day — the garden is quietly asking for colour and structure. Before 22h59 (UTC), direct your energy toward ornamental plantings that will anchor the spring display: pot up sweet pea seedlings ('Cupani', 'Matucana', 'Spencer Mixed') into 9 cm individual pots filled with a peat-free multipurpose compost, handling roots gently to avoid disturbing the fragile tap root / Sow stock ('Brompton', 'Ten Week Mixed') in module trays at 0.5 cm depth under glass — stocks germinate best at 15–18 °C and reward early indoor starts with those wonderfully clove-scented spikes / Deadhead and lightly trim overwintered wallflowers (Erysimum cheiri) to encourage a second flush of buds before the main spring surge / In mild coastal or Mediterranean-climate gardens, transplant established snapdragon (Antirrhinum) plugs into border positions, spacing 25 cm apart.
VEGETABLE PATCH : After 22h59 (UTC), the moon shifts into a leaf day — a subtle but useful pivot for the end of the evening. Use the transition to prepare for tomorrow: fill module trays with a fine seed compost and pre-moisten them ready for sowing lettuce ('Merveille des Quatre Saisons', 'Winter Density', 'Valdai') and spinach ('Medania', 'Viroflay') first thing in the morning / Sort through stored chicory roots (Cichorium intybus) and check for rot, discarding any soft sections; firm, healthy crowns can be forced under a pot in a dark corner for tender chicons within three weeks / Under a cold frame, hoe between rows of overwintered corn salad (Valerianella locusta) and claytonia — a shallow pass with a hand hoe at 2–3 cm depth aerates the soil surface without disturbing shallow roots.
INDOORS : A quiet moment before the day closes — check on seedlings started earlier this month. Pot on pelargonium cuttings ('Attar of Roses', 'Lemon Fancy') that have rooted since January into 8 cm pots with a gritty, free-draining mix; root-bound cuttings stall quickly and benefit from the extra space now / Sow begonia (Begonia semperflorens) and lobelia ('Crystal Palace', 'Riviera Blue') on the surface of fine seed compost — these tiny seeds need light to germinate, so press them gently without covering, and place the tray under a propagator lid at 20 °C / Turn seedling trays a quarter rotation to prevent legginess from uneven light exposure near a south-facing window.
INDOORS : The last day of February deserves a quiet, focused session under glass. A descending Waxing Gibbous moon on a leaf day draws energy toward foliage — perfect for seedlings that need strong, leafy growth before they face the world. Prick out lettuce seedlings ('Merveille des Quatre Saisons', 'Reine de Mai', 'Little Gem') into 7 cm pots filled with a fine peat-free compost, burying the stem up to the first true leaves to encourage a sturdy base / Sow celery ('Victoria', 'Tall Utah') in module trays at barely 0.5 cm depth — celery needs light to germinate, so press seeds gently without fully covering them; maintain 18–20 °C on a heat mat for best results / Sow spinach ('Matador', 'Bloomsdale') under a cold frame or in a cool greenhouse, rows 20 cm apart at 2 cm depth — descending moon energy supports leafy establishment rather than rapid top growth, which reduces bolting risk / Check overwintered chard ('Fordhook Giant', 'Rainbow Chard') for slug damage and remove any yellowing outer leaves with clean scissors to redirect the plant's energy into fresh growth.
VEGETABLE PATCH : A breath of late-winter air still nips, but the soil under a cloche is already waking up. Keep momentum going from the past few days by shifting focus to brassica family leaf crops today. Sow kale ('Nero di Toscana', 'Red Russian') and pak choi ('Canton Dwarf', 'Joi Choi') in module trays at 1 cm depth, two seeds per cell, thinning to the stronger seedling once both have germinated — brassicas appreciate the steady, moderate warmth of a frost-free greenhouse at 12–15 °C / Transplant overwintered cabbage ('Hispi', 'January King') seedlings started last autumn into their final positions under a tunnel cloche, spacing them 40 cm apart and firming the soil well around the roots to prevent wind rock / In milder Mediterranean-climate gardens, direct-sow Swiss chard ('Bright Lights') outdoors in a sheltered bed at 2 cm depth, rows 30 cm apart — the descending moon supports root anchorage alongside leafy development.
LANDSCAPING : Bare stems catch the pale February light — a reminder that structure matters as much as colour. On this leaf day, concentrate on foliage-led ornamental plants rather than flowering subjects. Pot up young hostas ('Halcyon', 'Sum and Substance') into 15 cm containers using a moisture-retentive compost mixed with 20 % horticultural grit; the descending moon favours root settling, helping divisions establish firmly before spring growth surges / Divide and replant ornamental grasses such as Carex morrowii 'Ice Dance' and Hakonechloa macra, teasing clumps apart with two forks back-to-back and replanting sections at their original depth / Trim back the dead foliage of Helleborus foetidus and Bergenia cordifolia to the base, using sharp secateurs wiped with diluted methylated spirits between cuts to limit fungal spread — fresh new leaves will follow within weeks.
| Day | Moon | Moon disc |
|---|---|---|
* Times on this calendar are for the North Hemisphere. They're given in Universal Time (GMT), meaning they're computed based on the Greenwich meridian.
Depending on where you live, you can adjust the time down to the exact minute to have your true "local moon planting time". If you're East of the Greenwich meridian, you must add minutes; if West, subtract them. A good rule of thumb is to consider your time zone: if your local time is GMT+1, as in Paris, then you must add an hour; if it's GMT-5, as in New York, you must subtract 5 hours. A node at 3PM GMT in London will take place at 4PM (16:00) in Paris and 10AM in New York. You can even adjust for minutes in the same manner, if you're far east or west within your time zone.
In addition, in some parts of the world, you might have to adjust these times because of "Daylight Saving Time". In this case, you should adjust by an hour compared to Standard Time, in addition to the modification resulting from your timezone.
** Gardening isn't recommended 5-6 hours before and after a lunar node, apogee or perigee.
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super calender moon planting 2025
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I’m mystified why 5 days of the end of May are missing from the website.ie May 27-31.
Hard to know what tasks are best done during this period. Do you have the data to email me?
Was this an oversight or intentional? I find your site is SUCH an asset to my gardening and I appreciate it!!!!!
Can I transplant a “Japanese Maple” after May 21-May 31st. 2024? The plant is 2′ high
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I love the calendars that my pharmacy puts out every year which show the best sign of the moon when to plant flowers and garden with seeds or plants and has a sheet at back or calendar with information. It has all the information about that you need for flowers and garden but I never got one this year . He was out when I went so I got on the computer to see what I could find. I just came upon this but haven’t got to read all of it but what I have seen, looks like you have covered everything for flowers and garden.
On the Planting by the Moon calendar for Jan 6 2024 there is a statement which indicates it is time to “set up rose hips” for grafting. How exactly do you set up rose hips?
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