Moon Planting calendar November 2026

VEGETABLE PATCH : A leaf day with the Last Quarter arriving this evening — a steady, grounded energy that suits transplanting and nurturing leafy crops. Set out kale plants 50 cm apart in rows 60 cm wide; their thick leaves will stand up to frost and keep producing well into winter. Chicory transplants go in at 30 cm in the row, rows 35 cm wide — firm the soil around each crown to anchor them before the ground stiffens. Chives can be divided and replanted at 15 cm apart in rows 25 cm wide; a cloche or fleece overhead will extend the harvest. Trim any yellowing outer leaves from brussels sprout plants and add a good layer of compost around their stems to feed the soil as temperatures drop. On heavier soils, work in a little coarse grit before planting to improve drainage through wet November weather.

LANDSCAPING : Bare-root planting season is quietly opening its doors. Hazel goes in well now — dig a generous hole, spread the roots, and backfill with soil mixed with compost; space plants 1.5 m apart for a loose, wildlife-friendly hedge. Currant bushes and blackcurrant plants can go in at 1.2 m apart; they establish without fuss and reward you handsomely come summer. Mulch the base of all newly planted shrubs with a 5–7 cm layer of leaf mould or bark to buffer temperature swings overnight.

ORCHARD : Bare roots, autumn soil

November opens the bare-root planting season, and today's descending moon is a fine ally. Apple and pear trees go in now: dig a wide, generous hole, loosen the base, and spread roots naturally without bending them. Set the union point 5 cm above soil level. Backfill with the excavated earth mixed with a shovelful of well-rotted compost, firm gently, and stake against prevailing winds. Space apple trees 4–5 m apart, pears 3–4 m. Cherry and plum trees follow the same logic — plant them while the soil still has some warmth from autumn.

Before the sign change this morning, the day opens as a leaf character — use that early window to transplant leeks 12 cm apart in rows 30 cm wide, pressing the soil firmly around each stem.

After the change, a fruit character takes over for the rest of the day. Take hardwood cuttings from currant bushes and blackcurrants: cut 20–25 cm sections of healthy current-season wood, insert two-thirds of each cutting into loose, gritty soil 15 cm apart, and leave them to root over winter. Raspberry canes can be planted now too, 50 cm apart in rows, with a generous mulch of straw or bark at the base to protect young roots.

LANDSCAPING : Roses establish beautifully from bare-root stock planted in November. Dig a cone-shaped mound at the base of the hole, drape the roots over it, and backfill with compost-enriched soil. Space bush roses 60 cm apart; climbers at least 1 m from a wall to avoid the rain shadow.

ORCHARD : A lunar node falls today, making this an unfavourable day — but the orchard still has plenty to offer the attentive gardener. Walk the rows and clear any fallen fruit left on the ground; rotting windfalls harbour fungal spores that carry over into next season. Rake up and compost healthy leaf litter, but set aside any diseased leaves for the bin rather than the heap. Check tree ties on young apple, pear, cherry and plum trees — autumn winds can work them loose and cause bark damage. Sharpen your pruning saw and loppers now, so they're ready when winter pruning begins. A good layer of well-rotted compost around the base of quince, hazel and walnut trees will protect shallow roots from frost and feed the soil as it breaks down.

LANDSCAPING : Autumn's slower pace suits a tidy-up around ornamental plantings. Cut back any frost-blackened dahlia stems to ground level and mulch the crowns with a generous 10 cm layer of straw or bark to shield the tubers through cold spells. Hydrangea spent flowerheads can stay on a little longer — they offer some frost protection to the new buds beneath — but remove any dead or crossing stems. Lay a bark mulch around rhododendron and camellia roots, keeping it clear of the stem; these shallow-rooted shrubs appreciate the insulation as temperatures dip. Take a moment to sketch out next spring's bulb plan and note which spots would suit daffodils, tulips and hyacinths before the ground hardens.

ORCHARD : A fruit day under the waning crescent — the descending moon draws energy toward roots and wood, making this a fine moment for bare-root planting. Set out raspberry canes 50 cm apart in well-prepared rows; work a generous shovelful of compost into each hole before dropping the roots in. Currant bushes and blackcurrants go in now too, spaced 1.2 m apart — they'll establish quietly over winter. Grapevines planted in autumn have a head start: loosen the subsoil, spread the roots wide, and backfill without compacting.

LANDSCAPING : Soft-fruit cuttings taken from blackcurrant stems today will root steadily through the cold months — cut 20–25 cm lengths just below a bud and push them two-thirds into gritty compost in a sheltered corner. Roses can go in bare-root from now on: dig a wide hole, mound the base, drape roots naturally, and firm well. Finish mulching the base of camellias and rhododendrons with a 5 cm layer of composted bark to protect their shallow roots from frost.

VEGETABLE PATCH : Before the sign change this morning, a brief fruit window opens — use it to harvest any remaining beetroot or celeriac still in the ground, brushing off the soil before storing them in slightly damp sand in wooden crates. Once the day shifts to a root character, the real work begins. Plant onion sets 10 cm apart in rows 25 cm wide, pressing each bulb just below the surface. Parsnips left in the ground will sweeten further with the first frosts — mark the rows now so you can find them easily. If you have salsify or black salsify to harvest, lift carefully with a fork to avoid snapping the long roots, then store as you would carrots.

LANDSCAPING : The waning crescent and descending moon make this a dependable moment for establishing permanent plants. Bare-root roses go in now — dig a generous hole, work a shovelful of compost into the base, and set the bud union just at soil level. Space shrub roses 80 cm apart. Tulip and hyacinth bulbs still waiting on the potting bench should go into the ground without delay: tulips 15 cm deep and 10 cm apart, hyacinth bulbs 12 cm deep. A light mulch of straw or bark over newly planted beds will protect young roots from the first hard frosts.

ORCHARD : Bare-root planting continues smoothly under today's conditions. If you have quince or hazel to add to the garden, now is a fine time — loosen the subsoil, spread the roots wide, and backfill with the excavated earth enriched with compost. Walnut trees go in as specimens; avoid hard pruning and let them establish at their own pace. Check ties on young trees planted last week and adjust any that have shifted in autumn winds.

VEGETABLE PATCH : A pure root day under the waning crescent — the soil is calling for bulbs and tubers. Plant shallot bulbs at soil level, 15 cm apart in rows spaced 25 cm, pressing each one firm without sinking too deep. Turnips and swede still in the ground can be lifted now and stored in wooden crates in cool, dark conditions. Chinese artichoke tubers are ready to harvest from this month onward — use a fork and work carefully along the row to avoid snapping them.

LANDSCAPING : Bare-root season is quietly opening. Rose bushes and hellebores benefit from planting now while the soil still holds a little warmth; work in a spadeful of compost and spread the roots wide before backfilling. Rhododendrons and camellias appreciate a permanent mulch of bark or pine needles laid 8–10 cm thick around the base — it regulates moisture through the cold months ahead.

ORCHARD : Quince trees and hazel both establish well in autumn. Space hazel at least 3 m from neighbouring plants and remove any suckers cleanly at the base. Walnut trees planted now will anchor quietly through winter — avoid hard pruning and let them settle on their own terms.

VEGETABLE PATCH : Cold fingers, damp soil — a pure root day calls for quiet, methodical work. Garlic cloves planted now, 3 cm deep with the tip facing up and spaced 12 cm apart, will establish slowly and be ready for a full harvest next summer. Black radish is worth harvesting before hard frosts set in — store them unwashed in a wooden crate layered with slightly damp sand. Leeks still standing can be lifted and heeled in a sheltered corner for easier access through winter mud.

ORCHARD : Bare-root season is properly underway. A quince tree planted this weekend in well-drained soil will reward you in just a few years — dig the hole wide rather than deep, spread the roots carefully, and backfill with a mix of topsoil and compost. Hazel goes in now too; mulch the base of all newly planted trees with a 10 cm layer of wood chip to insulate roots through the cold.

LANDSCAPING : Tulip bulbs planted 15 cm deep and 10 cm apart will sit quietly underground until spring — add coarse grit beneath each bulb on heavy soil to improve drainage. Hyacinth bulbs go in at 12 cm depth; daffodil bulbs at the same depth, in informal clusters for a more natural effect come March.

VEGETABLE PATCH : The waning crescent is almost gone — tomorrow brings the new moon, so today's descending moon favours root work above all else. Before the evening sign change, harvest any remaining parsnips or celeriac still in the ground; their flavour only deepens after a frost or two, but lifting them now lets you store them safely. Lay them in wooden crates lined with dry straw, roots pointing inward, away from light and moisture. Jerusalem artichoke tubers can be dug as needed from now until early spring — use a fork and work outward from the clump to avoid bruising. If you have bare patches, plant tulip bulbs 15 cm deep and 10 cm apart before the ground hardens.

ORCHARD : Bare-root season is just beginning to stir. A walnut tree or hazel planted this week in well-prepared, deep soil will establish quietly through winter with almost no extra attention — dig the hole wide, lay the roots out flat, and backfill without compacting too hard. Currant bushes and blackcurrants can go in now too, spaced 1.2 m apart; a generous layer of compost worked into the planting hole will reward you for years.

LANDSCAPING : After the sign change this evening, the day shifts toward a flower character — a good cue to plant tulip and daffodil bulbs in ornamental borders, or to settle in a hellebore in a shaded corner where it will bloom reliably each winter. Mulch the base of any recently planted shrubs with a 5 cm layer of wood chips to insulate roots through the cold months ahead.

LANDSCAPING : The new moon arrived just a few hours ago — a fresh lunar cycle begins, and the descending moon keeps us firmly in planting territory. Bare-root roses are your priority today: dig a wide, generous hole, work in a good spadeful of compost, then settle the bud union just at soil level before backfilling. Space standards 80–100 cm apart. Peonies planted now, buds no more than 3 cm below the surface, will establish quietly through winter and reward you with their first blooms in spring — resist any urge to move them later. Hellebores and rhododendrons are equally at home in the ground right now; give rhododendrons lime-free water and a permanent bark mulch.

ORCHARD : Bare-root season is fully open. An apple tree or pear tree planted this week in well-drained, lightly enriched soil will spend the coming months anchoring its roots before spring growth begins. Dig the hole wide rather than deep, spread the roots without bending them, and firm the soil in layers to avoid air pockets. Currant bushes and blackcurrants can go in 1.2 m apart — they establish fast and need little fuss. Raspberry canes planted 50 cm apart along a wire support will be producing by next summer.

INDOORS : Move the lemon tree and oleander under frost-free cover before night temperatures drop below 5 °C. Water sparingly through winter and keep them in the brightest spot available.

VEGETABLE PATCH : The sign changed just before dawn, and almost the entire day unfolds as a leaf day — perfect timing for leafy crops under a descending waxing crescent. Plant out corn salad seedlings 5 cm apart in rows 20 cm apart; their compact rosettes will quietly thicken through winter frosts. Spinach transplants go in at 8 cm in the row, rows 30 cm apart — firm the soil gently around each one with your knuckles to eliminate air gaps. Kale and cabbage planted out now, 50 cm apart in rows 60 cm wide, will anchor themselves before the ground stiffens. In mild areas, chervil can still go in under a cloche, pushed just 0.5 cm into the surface.

LANDSCAPING : A good moment to settle in hedging plants and foliage shrubs while the soil still holds some warmth. Rhododendrons, camellias and hydrangeas planted today will have weeks to push fine roots before the first hard frosts — use ericaceous compost for the first two, and lay a 5–7 cm bark mulch over the root zone immediately. Clematis loves a cool root run: plant it 10 cm deeper than the pot rim to encourage basal shoots. Finish by topping up compost around established box and bamboo.

ORCHARD : Bare-root season is in full swing. A hazel or walnut tree planted this week in a generous hole, roots spread wide without cramping, will need nothing more than a good watering-in and a layer of mulch kept clear of the trunk. Quince and chestnut trees are equally at home in the ground right now — choose a spot with good drainage and room to breathe.

VEGETABLE PATCH : A leaf day under a descending waxing crescent — the ground is receptive, so settle your leafy transplants in now. Chicory goes in at 30 cm in the row, rows 35 cm apart; firm each plant gently to close any air gaps. Swiss chard planted out at 35 cm in the row, rows 40 cm wide, will hold through the cooler weeks ahead. Lettuce transplants settle well at 25 cm in the row, rows 30 cm apart; in colder areas, protect with a fleece tunnel overnight.

LANDSCAPING : Bare-root roses can go in the ground today — dig a wide hole, work in a handful of compost, and set the bud union at soil level. Hellebores and camellias planted in light, moist shade will establish quietly through winter. A light hedge trim now, outside the nesting season, keeps lines sharp without stressing the plants.

ORCHARD : Bare-root currant bushes and blackcurrants go in now, spaced 1.2 m apart; a shovelful of compost in the planting hole will reward you next summer. Hazel and quince trees planted this week will anchor their roots with minimal fuss — stake each one loosely to allow gentle movement that strengthens the trunk.

VEGETABLE PATCH : The morning hours are well-suited for transplanting leafy crops under the descending waxing crescent. Settle watercress into a cool, moist corner — thin to 10 cm in the row, rows 20 cm apart, and keep the soil consistently damp; its peppery freshness will reward you through the colder weeks. Parsley transplants go in at 10 cm in the row, rows 25 cm apart — press the soil firmly around each plant to eliminate air gaps that dry out young roots. Chives planted out at 15 cm in the row, rows 25 cm apart, establish quietly before winter; in heavier soils, work in a little grit to improve drainage. Brussels sprout transplants can go in at 60 cm in the row, rows 70 cm wide — stake each plant lightly if your site is exposed to wind.

ORCHARD : After the sign change at midday, the afternoon opens a fine window for orchard work on a fruit day. Bare-root apple tree, pear tree, and quince tree planting is well worth tackling now — dig a wide hole, incorporate a generous spadeful of compost, and set the union just at soil level before backfilling. Raspberry canes go in 50 cm apart; cut them back to 30 cm after planting to encourage strong new growth. A currant bush or blackcurrant planted today at 1.2 m apart will establish its root network through winter with minimal fuss. Finish by mulching the base of each new plant with a 5–8 cm layer of bark or straw to buffer temperature swings.

LANDSCAPING : A good moment for bare-root rose and camellia plantings while the ground is still workable. For roses, dig a wide, generous hole, mix in compost, and set the bud union at soil level. Camellias thrive in light, moist shade with ericaceous compost — mulch the base immediately to retain moisture.

ORCHARD : Apogee day — the moon sits at its farthest point from Earth, which gardeners traditionally treat as a pause. Skip active work and focus on tasks that keep your orchard in good shape. Walk among your apple, pear, quince and cherry trees and check ties and stakes: loosen anything cutting into bark before winter winds test them. Spread a generous layer of well-rotted compost or bark mulch around the base of each tree, keeping it a hand's width clear of the trunk to prevent collar rot. Inspect stored fruit while you're at it — remove any showing soft spots before they infect their neighbours.

LANDSCAPING : A fruit day under the waxing crescent calls for attention to woody fruiting shrubs and ornamental plants. Currant bushes and blackcurrants benefit from a fresh mulch of straw or wood chips now, locking in soil warmth for root development through the cold weeks ahead. Raspberry canes that have finished their season can be tidied — cut back spent wood cleanly at the base with sharp secateurs, then clear the debris away to reduce overwintering pests. Roses, wisteria and clematis all deserve a check of their supports today; a loose tie now can mean a snapped stem by January. In heavier soils, work a little grit into the mulch layer around lavender and heather to keep water draining freely from the crown.

INDOORS : Move your lemon tree and oleander under frost-free cover if you haven't already — night temperatures are dropping and both resent even a light frost. Water sparingly from now on and place them in the brightest spot available.

ORCHARD : Bare-root fruit trees settle in beautifully on a fruit day under the waxing crescent. Dig a hole twice the root spread, work in a bucketful of well-rotted compost, and stake firmly. Apple and pear trees planted now establish quietly over winter; quince trees appreciate a sunny, sheltered spot with a compost mulch at the base. Walnut trees go in as specimens — choose the position carefully, as they resent disturbance later.

VEGETABLE PATCH : Broad beans sown 5 cm deep, seeds 10 cm apart in deep modules under cover, will build strong roots before planting out in rows 40 cm wide. Peas sown 3 cm deep, seeds 3 cm apart, will push through quickly in a polytunnel or mild garden.

LANDSCAPING : Tulip bulbs still waiting should go in without delay — 15 cm deep, 10 cm apart, in well-drained ground. Daffodils follow at 15 cm depth; layering both at different levels in the same spot is a neat trick for extended spring colour.

VEGETABLE PATCH : The moon shifts into a root day for most of the day — a fine stretch to focus on underground crops. Sow carrots 1 cm deep, seeds 2 cm apart, in a light, stone-free bed; cover with fleece to keep the soil from crusting in autumn rain. Black radish goes in at 1 cm deep, seeds 3 cm apart — a robust winter keeper with a pleasantly sharp bite. Turnips are quick to germinate even now: sow 1 cm deep, seeds 3 cm apart, in rows 25 cm wide under a polytunnel. Beetroot appreciates a slightly richer soil: sow 2 cm deep, seeds 5 cm apart. In heavy or clay soils, work in a little sharp sand first to help young taproots push straight down without forking.

LANDSCAPING : Think of your ornamental bulbs while the root energy is high. Tulip bulbs go in 15 cm deep, 10 cm apart — press each one firmly so no air pocket sits beneath it. Daffodils can still be planted at 15 cm deep; a handful of grit at the base of each bulb helps in wetter spots. Hyacinths settle well at 12 cm deep, and their roots will quietly develop through the cold weeks ahead. A mulch of bark or leaf mould over the bed will regulate soil temperature and discourage mice from sniffing out your bulbs.

VEGETABLE PATCH : A root day under the waxing moon — a solid stretch for sowing underground crops that will carry you through winter. Try parsnip first: sow 1 cm deep, seeds 3 cm apart, in rows 30 cm wide; their slow germination rewards a well-prepared, stone-free bed. Swede goes in at 1 cm deep, seeds 3 cm apart, in rows 40 cm wide — a dependable cold-weather staple that sweetens after the first frosts. Black salsify is worth a go if you have a deep, loose bed: sow 2 cm deep, seeds 3 cm apart, in rows 30 cm wide. In heavy soils, work in some coarse compost first so young roots push straight without forking.

ORCHARD : Check on recently planted bare-root apple, pear, and quince trees. Firm any rocked by wind, pressing soil gently around the roots. Spread a 5 cm layer of well-rotted compost around the base of each tree, keeping it a hand's width clear of the trunk. Hazel trees planted this season benefit from the same treatment now.

VEGETABLE PATCH : Today coincides with the First Quarter moon and an ascending node — an unfavourable combination that calls for a pause on soil disturbance. Instead, sharpen your hoes and trowels, clean off dried soil from spades, and check that cloches and fleece are in good repair before colder nights arrive. Mulch established leek rows with a 5 cm layer of straw to hold warmth in the soil and reduce heaving during frost cycles. Check and loosen any ties on staked crops before stems thicken further.

ORCHARD : A quiet morning is a good moment to walk the orchard and observe. Inspect ties on recently installed apple, pear, quince, cherry, and plum trees — winter winds can tighten stakes against young bark surprisingly fast. If you have bare-root raspberry canes waiting in a bundle, heel them into a sheltered corner of the garden so the roots stay moist until conditions improve. Rake up fallen leaves from around currant bushes and blackcurrants and compost them away from the base to reduce fungal spore carryover.

LANDSCAPING : After the sign change this evening, the day shifts toward a flower day — a fine moment to plan where tulip and daffodil bulbs will go if any remain in storage. Tuck a layer of leaf mould around hellebore and camellia roots to keep the soil from freezing solid; both appreciate a consistently cool, moist root run through winter. Check rhododendron mulch depth and top up with pine bark if needed.

LANDSCAPING : Bare-root planting season is well underway — roses, raspberries, and currant bushes are all good candidates right now. Dig a generous hole, work in a handful of well-rotted compost, and set bare-root roses with the graft union just at soil level. Space currant bushes and blackcurrants 1.2 m apart. Finish planting tulip bulbs at 15 cm deep, 10 cm apart, before the ground hardens — a light mulch of leaf mould on top will protect them through cold spells.

VEGETABLE PATCH : A flower day suits cauliflower and broccoli well. Sow under cover in modules, 1 cm deep, seeds 3 cm apart, in a cool but frost-free space. These brassicas germinate reliably even in low autumn light. Check that fleece tunnels are properly anchored; a loose edge lets cold air pool at plant level overnight.

ORCHARD : Autumn is the right window for planting apple, pear, quince, cherry, and plum trees as bare-root stock arrives in nurseries. Set roots wide in the planting hole and firm soil in layers to avoid air pockets. Stake at a low angle to allow some trunk flex, which encourages stronger wood.

LANDSCAPING : The waxing moon paired with a flower day makes this a rewarding stretch for ornamental work. Bare-root roses are worth planting now — dig a hole wide enough to spread the roots fully, work in a generous handful of well-rotted compost, and set the graft union at soil level. Space climbing roses 2 m apart along a fence or wall. Peonies are another excellent autumn planting: settle the buds just 3 cm below the surface — any deeper and they sulk for years without flowering. Camellias and rhododendrons thrive when given ericaceous compost and a permanent mulch of pine bark to keep their shallow roots cool and moist. Hellebores, planted now in light shade with moisture-retentive soil, will reward you with flowers from midwinter onward. Cut any remaining chrysanthemum blooms for the vase — they last well when stems are cut at an angle and placed in fresh water immediately.

VEGETABLE PATCH : Before the sign change this evening, a flower day also favours artichoke care — clear away dead foliage from established crowns and tuck a generous layer of straw around the base to protect the collar through frost. Pansy seedlings raised under cover can be pricked out into individual modules, 20 cm spacing planned for when they go out in spring.

ORCHARD : Once evening arrives and the moon shifts into its leaf phase, turn attention to structural planting. Hazel and quince trees planted bare-root now settle in beautifully before the hardest frosts — spread roots wide, backfill with the original soil, and firm gently. A 7–8 cm mulch of wood chip at the base insulates roots and suppresses competing weeds through winter. In mild zones, an olive tree or lemon tree overwintering under glass needs minimal watering: let the compost dry slightly between sessions to prevent root rot.

VEGETABLE PATCH : A leaf day with an ascending moon — a good stretch for sowing leafy crops under cover. Try corn salad (1 cm deep, seeds 2 cm apart, rows 20 cm) and chervil (0.5 cm deep, seeds 2 cm apart, rows 25 cm) in modules or a cold frame; both germinate reliably in low autumn light. If you have spinach started a few weeks ago, thin seedlings to 8 cm apart — crowded plants are more prone to downy mildew. Harvest outer leaves of kale and swiss chard in the morning, when cell moisture is at its peak.

LANDSCAPING : Bare-root season is well into its stride — wisteria and clematis are worth planting now while the soil still holds warmth. Set the clematis crown 5 cm below soil level to protect against wilt, and fix a sturdy support for wisteria straight away. Hazel and quince tree are equally good candidates: finish each planting with a 7–8 cm mulch of wood chips to insulate roots through the cold months ahead.

VEGETABLE PATCH : A leaf day with a waxing moon — sow leafy crops under cover for reliable germination. Chicory goes in at 1 cm deep, seeds 3 cm apart, in frost-free modules. Sorrel is equally well suited: sow 1 cm deep, seeds 3 cm apart, then thin to 25 cm once established. If you have lettuce seedlings from an earlier sowing, thin them to 25 cm apart — good airflow now prevents grey mould as temperatures drop. A foliar spray of diluted horsetail decoction on leafy crops strengthens cell walls against autumn damp.

LANDSCAPING : Bare-root season is in full swing. Hazel and quince tree settle in well while the soil remains workable — dig a generous hole, work in a bucketful of well-rotted compost, and firm the soil thoroughly. Space hazel plants 2 m apart if forming a hedge or coppice. Mulch the base of all newly planted trees with a 5 cm layer of bark chippings to insulate roots through the coldest months.

ORCHARD : Before the sign shifts this morning, harvest any remaining pears or quinces still in store for checking — handle each fruit gently, setting aside bruised ones immediately to protect the rest. Once the afternoon fruit day takes hold, turn your attention to bare-root planting: apple trees and pear trees go in now while the soil stays workable, in a hole wide enough to spread the roots fully, with a bucketful of well-rotted compost worked into the base. Space apple trees at least 4 m apart for standard forms. On heavier soils, mound the planting hole slightly to improve drainage around the crown.

VEGETABLE PATCH : Peas are worth sowing now under a cold frame or cloche — push seeds 3 cm deep, 3 cm apart, in rows 40 cm across. Broad beans are equally suited to this fruit day: sow 5 cm deep, seeds 10 cm apart, rows 40 cm. Both crops germinate slowly in cool soil but establish strong root systems before winter really bites, giving you an early spring harvest. In milder regions, outdoor sowing in a sheltered bed is perfectly viable.

LANDSCAPING : Raspberry canes planted today will settle in well — set them 50 cm apart in a prepared trench, roots spread wide, then firm the soil around each crown. Currant bushes and blackcurrants are equally at home going in now, 1.2 m apart, with a generous mulch of bark chips to lock in soil moisture through the cold months ahead. Grapevines can also be planted in autumn: choose a sheltered, sunny wall and work in grit if your soil is heavy.

ORCHARD : A fruit day with a waxing moon approaching full — conditions favour harvesting and planting fruiting trees. Check stored apples and pears: remove any showing soft spots before they spoil the batch. Bare-root raspberry canes go in well now, spaced 50 cm apart in a weed-free row; firm the soil around each crown without burying it. Currant bushes and blackcurrants can be planted too, 1.2 m apart, in a hole enriched with a generous handful of well-rotted compost at the base. On heavier soils, raise the planting hole slightly to avoid waterlogging around the collar.

LANDSCAPING : Think of the grapevine as a long-term investment — plant a bare-root specimen now while the soil stays workable, in a sunny, well-drained spot. Tulip bulbs can still go in at 15 cm deep, 10 cm apart, before the ground hardens; daffodil bulbs at 15 cm deep round out a cheerful spring display. Hellebores appreciate a spot in light shade with moist, humus-rich soil — plant now and leave them undisturbed to settle in over winter.

VEGETABLE PATCH : Before the sign shifts this morning, a fruit day opens a short window — use it to harvest any roots already in the ground for immediate use, pulling parsnips or black radish while the soil is still damp and workable. After the changeover, a root day takes hold for the rest of the day, ideal for sowing under cover: push carrot seeds 1 cm deep, spacing them 2 cm apart in rows 25 cm apart in a cold frame or deep module tray. Turnip follows the same logic — sow 1 cm deep, seeds 3 cm apart, rows 25 cm. If you have a sheltered bed, black salsify is worth trying: sow 2 cm deep, seeds 3 cm apart, rows 30 cm. The Full Moon arriving this afternoon brings peak sap energy, which helps seeds absorb moisture quickly — water modules gently after sowing.

LANDSCAPING : Cold mornings leave the soil just damp enough to work without compacting it. Garlic cloves can go into a well-drained bed now: push each clove 3 cm deep, tip pointing up, 12 cm apart. If you still have tulip or hyacinth bulbs waiting on the shelf, settle them in today — tulips at 15 cm deep, 10 cm apart; hyacinths at 12 cm. A light mulch of straw over the bed will buffer any sharp overnight frosts without smothering the emerging tips.

LANDSCAPING : A perigee day calls for restraint rather than grand gestures — conditions today favour observation and maintenance over any major work. Walk the garden with a critical eye: check ties on climbing roses, wisteria and clematis, loosening any that have tightened around stems through autumn growth. Mulch the base of hydrangeas and rhododendrons with a 5–8 cm layer of bark or leaf mould, keeping it clear of the crown to prevent rot.

ORCHARD : Quiet days like this reward careful observation. Walk among your apple trees, pear trees and quince trees, noting any crossing or rubbing branches for the pruning work ahead in winter. Check stored fruit carefully — a single soft pear can spoil its neighbours within days. Inspect ties on young walnut or chestnut trees and ease anything cutting into bark. On heavier soils, clear any waterlogged hollows around tree collars and top up with a thin layer of grit-enriched mulch.

INDOORS : Lemon trees and oleanders brought under cover deserve attention now. Check lemon trees for scale insects along the stems — a cotton pad dampened with diluted soap solution removes them cleanly. Water sparingly, only when the top 3 cm of compost feels dry. Cyclamen in cool rooms will reward you with weeks of colour if you remove spent flowers at the base and avoid wetting the tuber when watering.

VEGETABLE PATCH : A descending waning moon holds steady on a root day until this evening — the soil feels right for hands-on work among the rows. Lift jerusalem artichoke tubers now for storage, shaking off loose earth and keeping them cool and dark in a box of slightly damp sand. Celeriac benefits from a light hilling-up around its swollen base to protect it from upcoming frosts; if you have any growing under cover, this is a good moment to add a 5–8 cm layer of straw mulch between the rows. Leeks planted out earlier in autumn can be earthed up by 10 cm to blanch the stems and improve tenderness — work with a draw hoe along each row. On heavier soils, open a trench beside swede rows to improve drainage before the ground hardens.

LANDSCAPING : Before the sign shifts this evening, the descending moon suits structural planting rather than delicate work. Set bare-root roses into well-prepared ground now: dig a generous hole, mix a double handful of compost into the base, and position the bud union 3–5 cm below soil level in colder areas. Tulip bulbs still unplanted can go in at 15 cm deep, spaced 10 cm apart — firm the soil after planting to eliminate air pockets. After the sign change this evening, a flower day briefly opens: water any recently planted cyclamen or hellebore, and check that their mulch has not been disturbed by wind.

ORCHARD : Bare-root quince trees and hazel are worth planting before the ground freezes — dig the hole twice the width of the root ball, add compost at the base, and water in generously even in cool weather. Check stored pears and apples, removing anything soft before it affects its neighbours.

LANDSCAPING : A flower day under the descending moon — a good moment for settling roots rather than pushing top growth. Bare-root roses can go in now: dig a generous hole, mound the base, spread the roots outward and firm the soil well. Tulip bulbs still unplanted? Push them 15 cm deep, 10 cm apart before the ground hardens. Hellebores appreciate a shadier corner with moist soil — plant them now and they will reward you with late-winter blooms without ever needing to be moved again.

ORCHARD : Set in a quince tree or pear tree today, working compost into the planting hole and staking firmly against winter winds. Hazel and chestnut trees establish well at this time of year — mulch generously at the base, keeping material clear of the trunk. Currant bushes and blackcurrants go in 1.2 m apart; they need little fuss and root quickly in cool, damp conditions.

INDOORS : Lemon trees and oleanders should already be under frost-free cover. Water sparingly — once the compost surface is dry to the touch — and keep them in the brightest spot available to avoid weakening them through the darker months.

VEGETABLE PATCH : The sign shifts in the early morning hours, and from then on the day settles firmly into leaf energy — a welcome invitation to focus on leafy crops under the descending moon. If you have young cabbage or kale plants hardened off under cover, move them to their final positions now: space plants 50 cm apart in the row, with 60 cm between rows, and firm the soil well around each stem. Brussels sprout plants benefit from the same treatment — 60 cm in the row, 70 cm between rows. Corn salad transplants can go in too, 5 cm apart in rows 20 cm wide. Harvest outer leaves of spinach, swiss chard and rocket while cell moisture is high, cutting cleanly with a sharp knife. On sandy soils, lay a 5–8 cm mulch of straw between rows to retain moisture through winter.

LANDSCAPING : Before the sign change fully takes hold, the brief flower window in the early morning suits any last-minute tidying around roses and chrysanthemums — remove dead stems and clear spent material from the base. Through the rest of the day, turn your attention to hedges: trim box and formal hedges now, working steadily along each run and finishing with a generous mulch of bark chips at the base, 8–10 cm deep. Clematis and wisteria ties deserve a check too — loosen any that have tightened and replace fraying cord before winter storms test them.

INDOORS : Lemon trees and oleanders brought inside for winter appreciate a cooler, bright spot rather than a warm living room. Water sparingly — every 10–14 days is usually enough — and resist the urge to feed until late February. Cyclamen in pots thrive in a cool hallway with indirect light; remove yellowing leaves at the base to keep air circulating.

VEGETABLE PATCH : Before midday, the leaf energy is at its strongest — a fine window for transplanting leafy crops that have been hardened off under cover. Move chicory plants to their final positions now: space them 30 cm apart in the row, with 35 cm between rows, firming the soil around each crown. Lettuce transplants go in at 25 cm in the row, rows 30 cm apart — on heavier soils, add a handful of coarse grit to each planting hole to improve drainage around the roots. Watercress thrives in a sheltered, moist corner; thin established rows to 10 cm between plants. Harvest outer leaves of chervil and sorrel while cell moisture is high, cutting cleanly to encourage fresh growth.

LANDSCAPING : After the sign shifts around midday, the day turns toward fruit energy — a good moment to settle in bare-root fruit trees and shrubs. A bare-root raspberry can go in now: plant canes 50 cm apart, firm the soil well, and cut the top back to about 30 cm to encourage strong basal growth next spring. If you have a currant bush or blackcurrant waiting in a bucket of water, get it in the ground today — space plants 1.2 m apart and work in a generous shovelful of compost at the base of each planting hole. Hazel and walnut tree bare-root stock establishes well at this time of year; mulch the base with 8–10 cm of wood chip to insulate roots through the coldest weeks ahead.

ORCHARD : A descendant node falls in the early hours today, making this a day to step back and let the garden breathe. Turn your attention instead to the fruit trees already in place — check the ties on recently settled apple, pear and quince trees, loosening any that are beginning to bite into bark as trunks thicken. Inspect mulch around cherry, plum and walnut trees: top up with a 7–10 cm layer of wood chip or composted bark, keeping it clear of the trunk itself to avoid collar rot.

LANDSCAPING : Wisteria, grapevine and kiwi all benefit from a winter tidy at this stage — remove dead or crossing stems carefully without cutting into the main framework, and check that wall fixings are holding firm before hard frosts arrive. Currant bushes and blackcurrants can have their base mulched now with well-rotted compost, feeding the soil slowly through the cold months. Rhododendrons and camellias appreciate a generous collar of ericaceous leaf mould; tuck it in around the root zone without smothering the crown.

INDOORS : Lemon tree and oleander overwintering under cover? Check that ventilation is adequate — a slightly cool, bright spot suits them far better than a warm, stuffy corner. Water sparingly and resist the urge to feed until days lengthen again in late winter. A neighbour of mine once lost a beautiful lemon tree to overwatering in December, and the lesson stuck.

VEGETABLE PATCH : Leeks still standing in the ground are perfectly happy — harvest what you need for the kitchen today, twisting gently at the base rather than yanking, to avoid disturbing neighbouring roots. Tidy the bed edges and note in your garden journal which rows performed best this season.