English lavender is one of the most popular aromatic shrubs for sunny gardens. Grown for its silvery foliage, intense fragrance and blue-purple summer flowers, Lavandula angustifolia is equally at home in borders, rock gardens, gravel gardens and containers. Once established, it tolerates drought, attracts pollinators and requires very little care, provided its roots never remain in wet soil.
Did you know?
Despite its common name, English lavender is native to Mediterranean Europe, particularly dry, rocky areas of France, Spain and Italy.
Its botanical name is Lavandula angustifolia. It is also known as true lavender or common lavender.
English lavender generally tolerates colder winters better than French or Spanish lavender, but it remains very sensitive to waterlogged soil.
Essential English lavender facts
Name – Lavandula angustifolia
Family – Lamiaceae
Type – aromatic evergreen subshrub
Height – 2 to 3 feet (60–90 cm), depending on the variety
Exposure – full sun
Soil – light, dry to moderately fertile and very well-drained
Plant English lavender in spring or early fall. Spring planting is generally preferable in regions with cold, wet winters, while fall planting works well in mild climates where the soil remains relatively dry.
Plant English lavender in full sun and free-draining soil
Choose a position receiving at least six hours of direct sunlight each day.
Loosen the soil thoroughly and add coarse sand or fine gravel if drainage is poor.
Avoid adding large quantities of compost or manure, as overly rich soil encourages soft growth and fewer flowers.
Space plants approximately 1 to 3 feet apart (30–90 cm), depending on their mature size.
Position the top of the root ball level with the surrounding soil and avoid burying the woody crown.
English lavender tolerates neutral and alkaline soil particularly well. It can also grow in slightly acidic soil, provided drainage is excellent.
Best exposure
English lavender flowers most generously in full sun. In partial shade, stems often become longer and weaker, while flowering and fragrance are reduced.
A south- or west-facing position is ideal.
Good air circulation helps prevent fungal problems.
Avoid low-lying areas where rainwater collects during winter.
Growing English lavender in a pot
Compact English lavender varieties grow very well in containers. Choose a pot with several drainage holes and use a gritty, free-draining growing mix.
Mix two parts potting soil with one part coarse sand, grit or perlite.
Do not allow the container to stand permanently in a water-filled saucer.
Water only when the upper layer of soil feels dry.
Repot every two or three years, preferably in spring.
English lavender in garden design
English lavender naturally develops into a rounded, compact shrub. Its narrow gray-green leaves provide year-round structure, while the upright flower spikes bring color and movement in summer.
English lavender creates attractive edging and fragrant low hedges
Use it:
along paths where brushing against the foliage releases its fragrance;
as a low flowering hedge;
in gravel gardens and sunny rock gardens;
with roses, ornamental grasses, sage, thyme and other drought-tolerant plants;
in pots near a terrace, doorway or outdoor seating area.
The flowers generally appear once a year, although some cultivars may produce a lighter second flush if faded flower stems are removed promptly.
English lavender propagation
Propagating from cuttings
Stem cuttings are the simplest and most reliable way to propagate English lavender. Plants raised from cuttings remain identical to the parent variety.
Take non-flowering shoots approximately 4 to 6 inches long (10–15 cm).
Remove the leaves from the lower half of each cutting.
Insert them into a mixture of potting soil and coarse sand.
Keep the mixture barely moist and place the cuttings in bright light without harsh afternoon sun.
English lavender can also be propagated by layering or from seed. Seed-grown plants may vary in flower color, growth habit and fragrance because of cross-pollination.
Layering is slow but dependable and requires little attention.
Seed sowing produces many plants, but named cultivars may not come true.
Division is not usually recommended for mature woody lavender plants, as disturbing the crown may damage them.
Proper care for English lavender
Watering English lavender
Water regularly during the first growing season so that roots establish deeply. Once established, English lavender is highly drought tolerant.
Water deeply but infrequently.
Allow the soil to dry between waterings.
Container-grown plants require more frequent watering than plants in the ground.
Reduce watering sharply during winter.
Established plants growing in the ground rarely need fertilizer. Too much nitrogen encourages leafy, floppy growth and reduces fragrance and flowering.
Pruning English lavender
Regular pruning keeps English lavender compact and prevents the center from becoming woody and bare.
Remove faded flower stalks after flowering.
Trim back approximately one-third of the current season’s green growth.
Always leave some leafy growth below the cut.
Avoid cutting deeply into old, leafless wood because lavender may not regrow from it.
Harvest flower stems when the first flowers on each spike are opening. At this stage, fragrance is strong and the flowers remain attached during drying.
Cut stems on a dry morning after the dew has evaporated.
Tie them into small bundles.
Hang the bundles upside down in a dry, dark and well-ventilated room.
Store completely dried flowers in an airtight container away from light.
Uses of English lavender
Dried flowers can be used in sachets, potpourri and crafts
Lavandin is a hybrid, usually between Lavandula angustifolia and Lavandula latifolia. It grows larger and produces longer flower stems than true English lavender, but it is generally less cold-hardy and has a sharper fragrance.
Pests and diseases
English lavender has few pest problems. Most difficulties are caused by excessive moisture, poor air circulation or overly rich soil.
Root rot
Root rot is the most common problem. Leaves turn yellow or gray, stems die back and the plant may collapse.
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thank you for this guide, very interesting