Olive leaves last two or three years on the tree, and it is the chill of winter, not the summer heat, that triggers dormancy and shapes next year’s flowers. The olive (Olea europaea) repays a cool, gradual winter with fruit; a sudden deep freeze browns the leaf tips, splits bark and can destroy the flowers in the bud.
Let’s check how low temperatures influence olive trees, especially freezing. Learn how to harden your olive tree.
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It has been said time and time again that the Olive tree is a hardy fruit tree. However, it does have limits, and those who ignore them might be in for an unpleasant surprise.
Here is a table that shows how olive trees suffer in case of low temperature (numbers for the hardier ‘Arbequina’ variety, mostly):
| Temperature °F | Event or Damage | Temperature °C |
| Temperature °F | Dormancy & flower formation triggered | 12.5°C |
| 45°F | Optimal temperature for dormancy | 7°C |
| 39° to 70°F | Flower formation occurs | 4°C to 21°C |
| 30° to 39°F | Flower formation impaired | -1°C to 4°C |
| Above 23°F | No damage | Above -5°C |
| 19° to 23°F | Micro-cracks in bark, leaf tip burn | -5° to -7°C |
| 14° to 19°F | Leaf burn, older leaves fall | -7° to -10°C |
| 10°F | Leaf drop, all leaves are killed | -12°C |
| 9°F | Leaf buds, flower buds are killed | -13°C |
| 7°F | Twig burn, bark splits, damage | -14°C |
| 5°F | Twig death, wood splits, limb dieback | -15°C |
| 1° to -7°F | Large olive tree killed by freezing | -17°to -22°C |
This is for when other conditions are the best possible. Olive tree hardiness isn’t good whenever the following happens:
The numbers above are mostly based on the Arbequina variety, which is hardier. Similarly hardy is the French Picholine variety. Most other varieties are more vulnerable.
It’s possible to reduce damage by freezing to olive trees by winterizing them. Another solution if your area gets too cold is to grow olive trees in containers, so you can bring them indoors during cold waves.
The damage temperatures given above are not the same for every olive. The figures come from one of the hardiest varieties, so it is worth knowing where your own tree stands before trusting them.
| Variety | Origin | Relative hardiness | Twig death and limb dieback from |
|---|---|---|---|
| ‘Arbequina’ | Spain | Among the hardiest; used as the reference for the figures above | 5°F (-15°C) |
| ‘Picholine’ | France | Similarly hardy to ‘Arbequina’ | Not stated |
| ‘Frantoio’ | Italy | More vulnerable than the two above | 12°F (-11°C) |
| Most other varieties | Various | Less hardy than ‘Arbequina’ and ‘Picholine’ | Higher than the figures above |
Whatever the variety, rain in the days before a freeze, wind, a sudden drop or a tree under ten years old will all shave degrees off these figures.
The olive tree grows all along the Mediterranean area, and in modern times has spread to North and South America, Northern Africa, and more. In each of these places, frost regularly happens either because of latitude (growing farther North) or because of elevation (atop hills or on mountain slopes).
For fruit-bearing, olive oil quality, olive tree leaves, let’s observe how frost and freezing impacts this beloved tree.
The best (optimal) flower formation happens when daily temperatures in winter are as follows:
Freezing halts flower formation altogether, and deep freezes lower than 20°F (-7°C) can start destroying flowers in the bud.

Sometimes olives are harvested after freezing. This changes the quality of the oil.
Overall, moderate freezing has a positive impact on olive oil quality, even if it should be consumed faster (within the year instead of over several years).
However, excessive freezing is detrimental as it releases compounds into the oil that aren’t usually present.
When freezing occurs, leaves that are towards the end of twigs and on the outside of the olive tree canopy are the most vulnerable.

Note that light freezing, however, has a beneficial impact on olive production. However, the exact circumstances when this occurs aren’t fully known.
Plants can learn! It is possible to “teach” an olive tree to resist the cold. However, this requires incremental steps.
For example, never make a greenhouse-grown olive tree spend an entire winter freezing outside in one go!
The process is the same if you’re dealing with container-grown olive trees that stayed indoors, or if you’ve got a large greenhouse with trees growing in the ground in it:
Consider that once a tree has survived 100 hours (or about 12 nights) at a given temperature, it has “learned” to function or survive at that temperature. Its comfort zone can be extended downwards. To do that, adjust protections to lower the lowest temperature down by 1 or 2 degrees.
It may take years, but carefully monitoring how long your tree has been subjected to the cold can help you decide if extra protections are needed or not.
Note that you can’t increase hardiness forever. At most 4 to 5 degrees can be won, compared to what is normal for that variety.
As proof that this can happen, it is quite common to see that older trees show less damage than younger trees, even for twigs, buds and branches that are the same size.
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