Rudbeckia, nepeta, lavender and ornamental grasses can carry a border from late spring right through to mid-autumn, shrugging off disease and coping with soil that is poor or chalky. Match the plants to your exposure, soil and climate zone, and the bed will largely look after itself.
Start with a quick review of your flower beds, what their exposure is, type of soil (neutral, acidic, chalky), its structure (heavy or well-draining), and of course make note of the climate zone you’re in. These different parameters, which you can also determine simply by identifying which weeds are growing spontaneously in your soil, will help find out which plants are best suited to growing in your garden. They’re the ones that will have the greatest chance of thriving in it, and they won’t even need any care from you at all.
→ The ultimate solution? A wildflower garden!
Prefer plants that are hardy and resilient, that don’t fear disease, and that can cope with different types of soil, even those that might be poor or chalky. Rudbeckia, gladiolus, gaura, carnation, all the different grasses, shrubby cinquefoil, John’s wort, mock-orange, lavender… all of these are extremely easy-going plants, almost impossible to kill!
For long-lasting blooming that will extend from late spring to mid-autumn, go for perennial geranium (don’t get these confused with pelargonium which usually decorate windowsills), nepeta, coreopsis, the one or they other type of sage, yarrow, pincushion flowers, surfinia… Climbing vines like nasturtium and black-eyed Susan excel, too.
If you love roses, easiest among them are the vining roses, they bloom abundantly. Landscaping rose shrubs that don’t need any pruning or treatments against disease are another great choice. Take your pick from the varieties that various rose breeders have to offer (Meilland, David Austin…).
The article gathers its suggestions into a few broad groups. Comparing them side by side makes it easier to see which one answers the problem in your own bed.
| Group | Examples from the article | What it gives | Why it is little work |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hardy all-rounders | Rudbeckia, gaura, carnation, grasses, shrubby cinquefoil, lavender | Dependable flowers on difficult ground | Resist disease and tolerate poor or chalky soil |
| Long-season perennials | Perennial geranium, nepeta, coreopsis, sage, yarrow, pincushion flower | Bloom from late spring to mid-autumn | One planting covers most of the season |
| Easy roses | Vining roses and landscaping rose shrubs | Abundant bloom | No pruning and no treatments against disease |
| Perennials plus self-sowing annuals | A deliberate mix of the two | A bed that renews itself and looks full | The effort for both together is almost none |
Whichever group you start from, the choice is made on soil, exposure and flowering length rather than on fashion.
To reduce the risk of disease, make sure there’s enough space between your plants for air and light to circulate freely. Add ripe compost or organic fertilizer before the blooming, in early spring or mid-spring. In case of drought, take care to water during cooler times of the day, either in the morning or in the evening, otherwise you’ll be inviting fungus in.
If, despite your efforts, some plants do fall sick, remove diseased portions and burn them. Aphids might surprise you with a massive attack – spray any infested leaves and buds with a mix of water and beldi soap: it’s a non-polluting option that has proven its worth!
Laure Hamann
Make sure to include both perennials and self-sowing annuals. The combination looks amazing and the effort to manage both is identical: almost none!
