Wide, thick leaves turn bright yellow with the first colds, and in summer the blooms really do look like tulips. The tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera) earns its keep as a shade tree that blocks hot summer sun — give it deep, rich, well-draining soil that is not chalky.
| Name | Liriodendron tulipifera |
|---|---|
| Family | Magnoliaceae (magnolia) |
| Type | tree |
| Height | up to 130 feet (35 meters) |
| Hardiness | temperate to warm |
| Exposure | full sun to part shade |
| Soil | deep, rich, well-draining, not chalky |
| Growth rate | fast |
| Foliage | deciduous |
| Flowering | summer |
Leaves switch to marvelous hues, such as bright yellow, when the first colds arrive. And the flower… looks just like a tulip!
There are two main species of tulip trees: Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense) and Virginia tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera).
To tell them apart, look at their leaves: those of L. chinense have deeper lobes than those of L. tulipfera.
Tulip trees owe their name to the shape of their flowers.
Even though they belong to the magnolia family, they don’t quite reach the same beauty. Indeed, flowering is more sparse and spread over time, so it doesn’t get that “all covered with blooms” effect.
Leaves, though, are wide and thick. In fall, when the cold hits, they turn to bright hues like yellow and orange. Some say the leaves are shaped like a cat’s head. They’re similar in shape to those of the plane tree, and are excellent to keep hot sun out as a shade tree.
Easier to find is the “Virginia tulip tree”, with good cause: it is native to North America (specifically, the Appalachian mountain range)! Two varieties stand out:
To grow well, the tulip tree has a few requirements.
It is recommended to plant tulip trees at the beginning of fall to allow for root development before winter.
The proportions and size of the tree when mature make it impossible to grow in a pot.
A few simple steps and your tulip tree will feel right at home:
Usually, the tulip tree is sold in pots. But you may have come across a garden center that sells it with a bare root clump. If so, follow these extra steps to get your tree ready:
Smart tip: save on water and weeding with a thick layer of mulch at the base of your tulip tree. Plant-based mulch is best, in particular pine bark mulch: these make the soil a bit more acidic as they break down, which is perfect for Liriodendron.
No specific care is needed, just basic things:
Pruning isn’t required. Depending on the shape of your young tree, you may want to shape it a bit during the first 5 years.
However, pruning isn’t recommended when the tree is grown already.
In fall, sow seeds collected from your Liriodendron tulipifera.
However, for special cultivars like ‘Aureomarginatum’ and ‘Fastigiata’, go for grafting at the end of summer to retain their unique traits.
Indeed, seeds will always be a mix of genes and you can’t guarantee that offspring will look like the mother tree.
This tree, when healthy, will resist almost any pest. However, if ever it’s weakened due to poor growing conditions, it might be vulnerable to the following diseases.
As for pests, aphids are highly likely to appear at some point on your tulip tree.
A healthy tulip tree shrugs off almost everything, so any of these signs is first of all a hint that growing conditions need looking at. Use the table to match what you can see on leaves, bark or shoots with the right response.
| Problem | What you see | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Verticillium wilt | Leaves wilt and branches die off | Feed with a high-nitrogen fertiliser, hoping the tree outgrows the fungus within a year |
| Fusarium wilt | Spots on the leaves | Not fatal; treat with Bordeaux mixture only if infection is severe |
| Canker | Wounds on the bark of branches and trunk | Follow the usual canker treatment for trees |
| Powdery mildew | Leaves covered in a whitish dust, mostly in warm, moist weather | Apply a powdery mildew treatment |
| Aphids | Colonies on the shoots, often followed by sooty mold | Ignore unless the tree is covered; clear the aphids and the mold goes too |
Most of these only take hold on a tree weakened by poor growing conditions, so deep, rich, non-chalky soil remains the best prevention.
Quite common in parks and large gardens, the tulip tree also does well in long rows, lining a road or property edge for instance.
Two similar and interesting shade trees, nearly identical in size and bearing to the tulip tree are the Catalpa tree (which as orchid- like flowers) and the Handkerchief tree, Davidia involuncrata.
Although native to North America, many fossils of the tree can be found in Europe. This is because the tree actually became extinct over there during continental glacial eras. These occurred 65 million years ago, same time as the dinosaurs died off around the globe!
Tulip trees have a fast growth rate. They flower in summer, though the flowering is more sparse and spread over time rather than producing an ‘all covered with blooms’ effect like some magnolias.
No, the proportions and size of the tree when mature make it impossible to grow in a pot. While tulip trees are often purchased in containers, they must be planted in the ground to develop properly.
Pay attention to water needs during summer, especially over the first few years after planting. The article recommends watering abundantly at planting time and using a thick layer of mulch to help conserve soil moisture.
The main difference is in their leaves: Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense) has deeper lobes than the Virginia tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera). The Virginia tulip tree is easier to find since it is native to North America, specifically the Appalachian mountain range.
Healthy tulip trees resist almost any pest, but weakened trees may suffer from verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, canker, or powdery mildew. Aphids are the most likely pest to appear; when present in high numbers they can attract sooty mold fungus.
