A dwarf rhododendron tops out at around 32 inches, small enough for a large pot yet still flowering each spring, which is why it suits a shaded terrace or balcony so well. Success hinges on one thing: heath soil in a container that drains freely, so roots never sit in water, and it will bloom year after year.
| Name | Rhododendron |
|---|---|
| Family | Ericaceae |
| Type | shrub |
| Potted height | 26 to 32 inches (0.6 to 0.8 meters) |
| Exposure | part sun and shade |
| Substrate | heath soil |
| Foliage | evergreen |
| Flowering | early spring to early summer |
Here are our tips to ensure your potted rhododendrons will develop and bloom year after year.
We recommend: Choose dwarf species for growing in pots, since these are varieties that never grow taller than 32 inches tall even when mature.
Here are out tips to grow container rhododendrons, and have them bloom year after year.
All of these stay small enough for a large container and are widely sold in garden centres and mainstream catalogues. Pick on flower colour and final height, then check the spot you have in mind gets the light the variety prefers.
| Variety | Flower colour | Flowering time | Exposure |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dora Amateis | White, lightly speckled | mid-spring to late spring | Part shade to shade |
| Curlew | Bright yellow | mid-spring to late spring | Part shade, cool root run |
| Blue Tit | Lavender blue | mid-spring to late spring | Part shade |
| Scarlet Wonder | Deep ruby red | mid-spring to late spring | Part shade |
| Princess Anne | Greenish yellow | mid-spring to late spring | Part shade to sun |
| Ramapo | Violet blue | mid-spring | Part shade, tolerates sun |
| Ginny Gee | Pink fading to white | mid-spring | Part shade |
Potted rhododendrons, just like their counterparts planted in the ground, require well-drained soil to avoid all contact of roots with stagnating water.

The substance that makes the pot is irrelevant, as long as the pot or garden box is sure to have water drainage outlets at the bottom.

Potted rhododendrons need heath to grow well.
Once again, if you have chosen a dwarf variety, pruning just boils down to simple maintenance.
On rhododendrons and azaleas, deadhead by hand: pinch or snap the spent truss off at its base, taking care not to damage the fat new shoots pushing out just beneath it.

Like most potted plants and shrubs, watering is crucial because the plant’s needs are very different from the needs of their ground-planted counterparts.
In summer, this probably translates into watering every other day. Fertilize only every fortnight, though.
In winter, watering should be greatly reduced. Frequency will drop to around once a week or even every two weeks, depending on the weather. Don’t give the plant any fertilizer at all from late autumn to early spring.
This is often due to poorly-draining soil, which means water is pooling around the roots.
Fertilizing with special heath plant fertilizer at the end of winter strengthens rhododendrons. It enhances their flowering and helps avoid diseases.
This is generally due to excessively chalky soil, and results in what is called rhododendron chlorosis.
This is one of Rhododendron’s most common diseases, and it is often too late when it shows.
→ Discover all our advice on growing rhododendrons.
Most troubles in a container come down to water, lime or fungus. Match what you can see on the plant with the likely cause before reaching for a treatment.
| What you see | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Leaves and buds turn brown | Poorly-draining soil, water pooling around the roots | Make sure water flows away quickly and reduce watering a little |
| Leaves lose colour and turn yellow | Excessively chalky soil, causing chlorosis | Add a layer of heath on the surface and a supplement of heath plant fertilizer |
| Shrub withers, looks sad and stunted | The fungus Phytophthora cinnamomi, often lethal | Remove and destroy infested portions, then treat with systemic fungicide |
| Blisters form on leaves | Leaf gall, caused by Exobasidium vaccinii | Remove the leaves that carry the blisters; rarely critical |
Fertilizing with special heath plant fertilizer at the end of winter strengthens the plant and helps avoid diseases.
Pine bark mulch added on top of the soil in a layer an inch thick helps solve a good number of issues.
This information for potted rhododendrons was superb great help for me transplanting tku
You’re welcome!
Should you water regularly and feed during the summer and winter
Hi Peter! I just added a section to the “watering” paragraph to answer that. Jump up to it here.
I keep losing my Henry’s Red Rhododendrons.
I’ve planted them in the ground in the same spot and replaced them twice.
I’m thinking the ground is too wet where I have planted them.
I don’t want to give up.
I’m thinking of trying again in containers, buried in the ground to control the water that gets to the plant roots.
Will this work? What do you think? Can a Rhododendron live long term in a container buried in the ground?
Hi Todd, well, while I do recommend what you suggest in the pot-in-pot technique, I’m not sure it’s what you need in this case. For your idea to work, you’d need to have watertight containers because if there’s the slightest hole or crack, water will seep in anyways so your efforts will have been in vain. If the containers are watertight, however, it’s very difficult for excess water to drain away and your plants would drown: not good if it rains. A rhody can grow for decades in a pot, but that’s always an above-ground container where drainage is possible.
What I’d do in your case is to try to set your Rhodies up on a type of mound or low raised bed. First, make sure you add in lots of pine bark mulch to make it both high-draining and acidic, and before you even raise the mound, shovel out some of that heavy soil and replace it with lighter peat or peat equivalents, clay pebbles, etc.
Congrats on not giving up, by the way! That’s the spirit!
Thank you Gaspard. Your comments are very helpful.
Thank you for taking the time to help me out.
Todd
Pittsburgh
Hi Nature and Garden, I am hoping you can help. We bought a Rhododendron “Double Dots” and an Azalea Knaphill “Anneke” last year. They were both potted up in suitable containers in ericaceous potting mixture, well drained, in a dapple shaded position. So far we have not seen any flower buds on them. All the leaves are healthy on both plants, I had been watering them every other day but have reduced the watering to every third day. Both plants have had a liquid feed for this type of plant. Since having the plants we have not pruned them at all. Could you advise why we have not seen any flower buds yet.
In the same area that these two plants are we also have a camellia, which has flowered and gets the same watering and feed.
Regards,
Paul Wakeford
my container rhododendron leaves are not perky but look limp