Home » Gardening » Citrus

Potted lemon tree, how to grow lemon in a container

Lemon tree growing in a container
1

Evergreen foliage all year round and lemons that mature slowly on the branch: the potted lemon tree (Citrus limon) makes home-grown citrus possible where the climate rules out planting directly in the ground. Give it a well-lit, unheated spot where the temperature never drops below 32°F (0°C), and you can pick your own fruit.

Potted lemon tree at a glance
Name Citrus limon
Height 3 to 10 feet (1 to 3 m)
Exposure full sun
Soil well-drained
Foliage evergreen
Flowering spring/summer
Harvest fall/winter

The climate in most of our regions isn’t well suited to growing lemon trees directly in the ground, but growing them in pots is perfectly possible.

The best varieties for growing lemon in pots are dwarf ones like the ‘Lisbon’. Special dwarf versions of the ‘Meyer’ and ‘Ponderosa’ lemons exist, too.

Potted lemon tree year at a glance

Evergreen foliage all year, and lemons that mature slowly on the branch: the potted lemon tree (Citrus limon) makes citrus possible where the climate rules out planting directly in the ground. Give it a well-lit, unheated spot where the temperature never drops below 32°F (0°C), and you can pick your own fruit.

Potted lemon tree year at a glance
Task When Key point
Re-potting Every 2 or 3 years, in spring High-quality citrus soil mix, neutral to acidic (pH 5.5 to 7), with a drainage hole and a bed of pebbles
Pruning Very regularly, possibly several times a year Shorten each new shoot back to about half its length, cutting just above a leaf
Feeding Every two weeks during the growth phase Citrus-specific fertiliser, applied while watering, to boost fruit-bearing
Winter shelter mid-autumn to late spring A well-lit, unheated spot where the temperature never drops below 32°F (0°C)
Harvesting Usually late autumn to early spring Protect from freezing and keep the soil slightly moist while fruits mature

Watering sits outside this calendar: it simply follows the soil, frequent in summer and reduced in winter.

Which lemon variety for a pot?

Not every lemon suits life in a container: some stay naturally compact, others need hard pruning to stay in bounds. The table below compares the varieties most often sold in garden centres and mainstream catalogues.

Which lemon variety for a pot?
Variety Fruit Cold tolerance Best for
‘Variegated Pink Eureka’ Striped skin, pink flesh Low Ornamental terrace plant
‘Lisbon’ Very acidic, juicy Good for a true lemon Reliable crops, needs pruning
‘Eureka’ Very tart, classic lemon Low Juice and zest, few thorns
‘Villa Franca’ Tart, smooth-skinned Moderate Dense leafy shape, few thorns

Re-potting potted lemon tree

Lemon seedling started in a shallow container.

Potted lemon trees cannot extract the nutrients they need from the ground.

So the pot and soil you have put in it are their only source of food for them to stock up and grow. Re-potting is critical.

  • Re-pot every 2 or 3 years in spring.
  • Choose high-quality citrus-specific soil mix. It should be neutral to acidic (pH 5.5 to 7) and quite rich.
  • Double-check that the bottom of the pot has a hole drilled in.
  • Place a bed of small pebbles or clay pebbles at the bottom of the pot to ensure excellent drainage.

For larger pots, repotting becomes difficult. In this case, increase nutrient availability by topdressing the top of the pot with rich, fresh soil mix.

Pruning a potted lemon tree

Pruning isn’t really needed but if you don’t prune your lemon tree, it will quickly grow very large.
In pots, it is best to control your tree’s growth with very regular pruning.

How to prune a lemon in a pot

Shorten each new shoot back to more or less half its length, taking great care to cut just above a leaf.
This will result in your lemon tree keeping a nice, tight shape.

  • You might need to do this several times a year.

Remove dead wood regularly and clear the inside branches of your lemon tree to let light penetrate to the center.

→ Important: many lemon trees are grafted. If you see suckers or shoots growing from below or at the graft point, prune them off immediately.

Watering potted lemon tree

In pots, lemon trees dry up much faster than if they were planted in the ground.
In summer, frequent watering is required, whereas watering can be reduced in winter.

  • Water as soon as the soil is dry, without flooding the pots.
  • Avoid all heat sources such as nearby radiators, because this could dry your tree out.

Every two weeks, during the growth phase, add citrus-specific fertilizer to boost fruit-bearing. You can do this while watering your lemon tree.

  • Empty the saucer under a potted lemon tree soon after watering, because roots left standing in water suffocate and waterlogged conditions favor Phytophthora, which attacks feeder roots and, at the trunk base, causes foot rot.
  • Water a potted lemon tree with rainwater or filtered water where tap water is hard, because lime builds up in the compost and locks up iron, turning young leaves yellow between green veins.
  • Push a finger into the compost of your lemon tree up to the second knuckle before watering: if it still feels damp at that depth, wait rather than adding more.
  • Water a potted lemon tree until liquid runs freely from the drainage hole, which wets the whole root ball and flushes out fertiliser salts that otherwise accumulate and scorch the roots.
  • Never let a lemon tree dry out completely while it is in flower or carrying small fruits, as sudden water stress makes it shed blossom and young lemons within days.

Potted lemon tree in winter

A potted lemon tree with fruits protected in winter

Growing these trees in pots is most adapted, because it makes it possible to bring the lemon trees to a well-lit spot where it doesn’t freeze in the winter.

Lemon trees aren’t indoor plants, and can’t bear staying in a heated environment all year round. They need relatively lower temperatures from mid-autumn to late spring.

It is important to place them in an unheated greenhouse for instance, where the temperature never drops below 32°F (0°C).

Harvesting lemons

Hand picking a lemon from a potted lemon tree indoors.

Harvest season is usually late autumn to early spring.

  • For lemons to mature best, protect the tree from freezing, and keep the soil slightly moist.

In the northern hemisphere, lemon fruits start forming in spring and slowly mature over the winter.

  • Protecting the lemon tree from both cold and intense indoor heat is important at this point.

If ever you have to absolutely bring your lemon tree indoors to keep it from freezing, do your best to keep the air moist.

  • Lemons are non-climacteric, so they gain no extra sweetness after picking, though the skin can keep yellowing off the tree; leaving fruit on your potted tree stores it well for weeks.
  • Cut each lemon off with secateurs, leaving a short piece of stalk attached, rather than pulling the fruit, because a torn rind opens the way to rot and greatly shortens keeping.
  • Judge a lemon ready by weight and a slight give under finger pressure rather than by colour alone, since fruit on a potted tree can turn yellow while the flesh is still poor in juice.
  • On a young or potted lemon tree, it is common practice to remove some developing fruitlets, since carrying a heavy crop can strain a small tree and late spring reduce the size of the remaining fruit.

Common potted lemon tree diseases

Terra cotta pot with lemons from a tree inside it

Learn more about citrus plants:

  • Sticky honeydew dripping from scale insects or aphids on a lemon tree soon turns black with sooty mould, which blocks light from the leaves, so treat the insects themselves rather than scrubbing at the soot.
  • Interveinal yellowing on a potted lemon tree can signal iron, manganese, zinc or magnesium deficiency, often linked to an alkaline mix or hard water; using rainwater and a citrus feed with chelated micronutrients usually helps.
  • To keep phytophthora foot rot away from a potted lemon tree, set the graft union well clear of the compost surface and tip out any water left standing in the saucer after watering.
  • Inspect the undersides of lemon tree leaves and the leaf axils each time you water, since scale insects and mealybugs settle and feed there, and are far easier to wipe off before colonies build up.

Smart tip about the lemon tree

Pick the lemons as soon as they easily break off from their branch.

This shows that the fruit has matured enough for the seeds and flesh to be fully developed, without yet being over-ripe.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I water a potted lemon tree?

In summer, frequent watering is required, while watering can be reduced in winter. Water as soon as the soil is dry without flooding the pot, and avoid placing the tree near heat sources like radiators that could dry it out faster.

How long does it take for a potted lemon tree to produce fruit?

The article does not specify how long it takes for a potted lemon tree to reach maturity or produce its first harvest. It only notes that in the northern hemisphere, fruits start forming in spring and mature slowly over winter, with harvest season typically late autumn to early spring.

When and how should I prune a potted lemon tree?

Pruning should be done very regularly, potentially several times a year, by shortening each new shoot back to about half its length just above a leaf. Also remove dead wood regularly and clear inside branches to allow light penetration, and immediately prune off any suckers or shoots growing from below or at the graft point.

Can a potted lemon tree survive winter outdoors?

Potted lemon trees cannot survive freezing outdoors and must be brought to a well-lit, unheated location where the temperature never drops below 32°F (0°C), such as an unheated greenhouse. They are not suitable as indoor plants and cannot tolerate heated environments year-round.

What are the most common diseases affecting potted lemon trees?

Common diseases include European brown rot (lemons rot on the tree), citrus foot rot (root infection), scale insects (whitish masses on leaves), aphids (curled leaves that fall off), and thrips (silver-white blotches on leaves and fruits, though the fruit remains edible).


Images: adobestock: Ivan Semenovych, CC BY-SA 2.0: Martin Belam; Pixabay: Ulrike Leone, Wolfgang Claussen; shutterstock: Iryna Inshyna