The most commonly cultivated species, Moringa oleifera, is a smallish tree that grows fast. In temperate climates, it can only survive indoors.
Technical Moringa facts:
Name – Moringa oleifera
Family – Moringaceae
Type – deciduous foliage tree
Height – 45 feet (15 m)
Exposure – well-lit
Soil – light, very well-drained
Foliage – evergreen
Flowering spring, summer
Moringa oleifera is a perennial tree that was once thought to be native to tropical India. Now, it has been introduced in nearly every region with moist, tropical or subtropical climates. It’s clearly a warm weather plant, reserved to the hotter ends of temperate climate zones: it won’t survive long-lasting bouts of frost.
The tree requires planting in moist areas that never dry out. Frost is what it fears most, so in the United States and Europe, it only grows indoors from fall to summer. Moreover, it doesn’t like extreme day-night temperature swings. Only bring it outdoors during the hottest periods of the year.
You’ll need a very large container (about 10 cubic feet or 1 cubic meter) for its deep-reaching roots to grow. Because of its size, this tree will is only suitable for heated greenhouses or similar set-ups, like large heated lean-ins for instance). Set up sturdy wheels underneath your container to roll it around easily.
Your Moringa oleifera seedlings have a powerfully strong taproot that easily breaks and tears. As a result, it’s important to keep the plant in a large enough container so that the taproot doesn’t run around in circles along the bottom. If ever it gets rootbound, you’ll have a lot of trouble repotting it… call in the Incredible Hulk! In its natural environment, Moringa trees easily reach 20 feet (5 meters) in less than 6 months. When it’s that tall, harvesting its leaves and fruit pods is difficult.
Moringa can bear pruning very well. In a pot, it’s even a requirement: otherwise it’ll grow spindly and tall.
Moringa oleifera propagates either through seeds or through branch cuttings. Seeds and young seedlings need a constantly warm temperature to grow, at least 60°F (15°C), with no difference between night and day if possible.
Once the tree has finished bearing fruit, it helps to cut branches back to trigger new growth. Use these cut trimmings to start new trees off:
Moringa roots very easily from branches, just like plumeria and poplar trees. However, shelter such cuttings from strong winds because the root system won’t go as deep as with seed-sown trees.
Seeds collected from your M. oleifera don’t require any time for dormancy. You can plant them as soon as they ripen. However, it’s often wiser to wait for the middle of spring to sow them, since the milder climate matches the plant’s needs in most temperate areas. Plant the seeds directly in a large container, big enough to suit the tree in the short-to-medium run. Indeed, seedlings are very fragile and often won’t survive transplanting if before 3-4 months.
Sowing will only work in its native climate or in heated, sheltered places.
Info : each seed pod grows into a distinctive, elongated shape. Often long, pointy and shaped like a triangle prism less than an inch wide (1-2 cm), they easily reach a foot or two in length (30-50 cm). Some cultivated varieties even grow pods that are 4 feet long (120 cm)! Inside, shiny, oily seeds ripen, each one about half an inch across (1 cm). While still green, the seed pods are fleshy and green, but they turn fibrous and gray when ripe. They stay on the tree until seeds are mature.
The most important risk is related to drought and to day/night temperature changes (thermal shock).
M. oleifera , is a smallish deciduous tree that grows fast.
The leaves are 6 to 12 inches long, grouping many leaflets. It’s very light and sways with the slightest breeze, playfully frolicking with the sun’s rays at they flutter.
Fragrant flowers, creamy white, appear in large panicles. Each one has 5 lopsided petals that are slightly larger than the surrounding sepals.
Apart from its medicinal properties, the M. oleifera species is also grown for many other purposes: food for us humans, fodder for cattle and goats, and extracts are used in cosmetics. Increasing use both local and international will most certainly lead to more projects where this tree is planted and cultivated. New varieties will be shared, though it will only ever become popular in places where it doesn’t freeze.
Info – Interestingly, the date at which the tree loses its leaves before growing a new set is different depending on where it’s grown. In India, leaves drop around December-January and then grow back in February-March. In some environments (tropical ones), wherever moisture and irrigation abound, the tree bears fruits and flowers all year round.
Though the plant loves being watered, it should have soil that drains very, very well. In waterlogged areas, it quickly turns yellow and dies.
No, Moringa oleifera won’t survive long-lasting bouts of frost and can only be grown indoors in temperate climates like the United States and Europe. It should only be brought outdoors during the hottest periods of the year, as it fears frost most and doesn’t like extreme day-night temperature swings.
Moringa oleifera is a fast-growing tree that can easily reach 20 feet (5 meters) in less than 6 months in its natural environment. When cultivated, it typically grows to a height of 25 to 30 feet (8 to 10 m) with a narrow, umbrella-like crown.
Keep the soil moist enough so it never dries out, but ensure it doesn’t stay soggy or waterlogged, as the plant quickly turns yellow and dies in waterlogged conditions. The soil must be very well-drained with holes at the bottom of the container for excess water to drain away.
Pruning is required for potted Moringa to prevent it from growing spindly and tall. After harvesting its leaves, cut the taller stems back to your desired height, or even cut the top off entirely—many new stems will branch out from the cut crown, creating a lush shrub appearance.
Yes, Moringa oleifera propagates easily from branch cuttings taken after the tree has finished bearing fruit. Collect branches at least an inch across (2.5 cm) and nearly 6 feet long (1.8 meters), sink the end into a large container filled with soil, sand, and composted manure, water abundantly without drenching the stem, and the roots will develop easily—though this root system won’t go as deep as seed-sown trees.
