Cut the tip of each main branch just beyond an outward-facing bud, leaving at least three buds behind, and you are pruning for fruit rather than for shape. This winter task suits older, well-structured trees only, and thinning out the inward-growing wood that never fruits is what lifts the following crop.
Even though it isn’t compulsory, this pruning is recommended when you wish to increase productivity.
The best time to perform it is at the heart of winter, as long as it doesn’t freeze.
For apple trees, pear trees, peach trees and apricot trees, it is best to prune before spring growth, sometime in February.
The five stages of fruit-inducing pruning at a glance
Fruit-inducing pruning is carried out in a set order, each stage dealing with a different type of wood. Here is what comes off the tree, and what each cut is for.
The five stages of fruit-inducing pruning at a glance
Stage
What to remove
Why it matters
1. Clean-up
Dead branches, crossing branches, wounded or broken wood
Clears the framework before any shaping begins
2. Old fruit
Shrivelled fruits still hanging on the branches
They are a sign of brown fruit rot, which may need treating later
3. Base growth
Sprouts and suckers appearing below the graft joint
This growth comes from the rootstock, not the fruiting variety
4. Thinning
All branches growing towards the inside of the tree
They won’t bear fruit and reduce fruit formation overall
5. Main branches
Only the tips of the branches going around the tree
Leave at least three buds and the tree keeps its shape
Work through the stages in this order and the final cuts are made on a tree that is already clean and open.
How to prune to trigger fruiting?
This pruning must of course only be performed on older, well-shaped trees, and not on young specimens.
It must already have a rather strong structure.
Dead, crossing and broken branches come off first
Start with removing dead branches, those that cross over each other, and wounded or broken branches.
Remove old fruits that may have stayed on the branches (a sign of brown fruit rot, note that you might want to treat later on).
Also remove any sprouts and suckers that appear below the graft joint.
After having cleaned up the tree, thin out the branches.
To do that, remove all branches that grow towards the inside of the tree. They won’t bear fruit and will reduce fruit formation overall.
At the end only, go about pruning the main branches going around the tree.
Without changing the overall shape of the tree,
Cut off the tips, taking great care to leave at least 3 buds.
Cut the branches off just after an outwards-facing bud to avoid having branches that grow towards the inside.
Once this work has been prepared, apply pruning paste on the open wounds of the larger branches.
It isn’t mandatory, but it is recommended to avoid any risk of disease!
Written by Gaspard Lorthiois | Loves helping out, especially when it comes to growing things. Worked in herbal medicine, runs a farm, and dabbles in tech. Master's degree and engineer.
