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Hollyhock, colorful and beautiful

Many different hollyhocks blooming in an urban landscape
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Flowers in white, pink or a purple so dark it looks almost black climb the top of long stems with sparse foliage, up to 8 feet tall. Hollyhock (Alcea rosea) belongs in flower beds and along garden walls, and given full sun it reseeds itself every year without any help.

Hollyhock at a glance
Name Alcea rosea
Family Malvaceae
Type perennial
Height 4 to 8 feet (120 to 250 cm)
Exposure full sun
Soil ordinary
Flowering midsummer to early autumn

Sowing and caring for hollyhocks is easy, and they have the great advantage of reseeding themselves every year without needing help!

Planting and sowing of hollyhock

Sowing hollyhock

It is recommended to sow hollyhocks in spring and summer in a mix of garden soil and soil mix.

  • Hollyhocks like edges and the base of walls.
  • Sow seeds at least 12 inches (30 cm) apart.
  • Sow 2 to 3 seeds per hole.
  • Water in a light drizzle regularly to ensure that the ground stays damp.
  • It usually takes two years for the plant to bloom after sowing.

You can multiply your hollyhocks by direct sowing.

How to recover hollyhock seeds

To propagate your hollyhocks, harvest the seeds that are found in the capsules formed after blooming, store them in the dark over winter, and plant them in the ground in early spring or mid-spring depending on the climate zone.

Planting hollyhock

If you have purchased your hollyhocks in nursery pots, it is possible to plant them in the ground directly.

  • It is best to plant them in the spring.
  • Set the plants at least 12 inches (30 cm) apart to give them space to grow.
  • Water regularly for the first year after planting.
  • If they are located in a windy spot, you must stake them to avoid them bending over.

Pruning and caring for hollyhock

Well-cared for but short pink hollyhock in front of a small stone wall.
Once settled in, hollyhocks need almost no care

Hollyhocks, once settled in, require almost no care at all. They draw the water they need from the ground, and can cope with very harsh conditions.

  • To boost flower-bearing, remove wilted flowers regularly (deadheading).
  • Cut dried stems at the end of the season, they will grow back naturally in the following year.
  • In regions with colder winters, protect the base with mulch.

Note that for windy areas, it is a good idea to stake your hollyhocks to keep them from bending over.

Year after year, you’ll notice more new hollyhock sprouts: seeds germinate very easily on their own in spring.

Hollyhock year at a glance: what to do and when

Hollyhocks ask for very little, but the few jobs they do need fall at set moments of the year. Here is each task, its timing and what it involves.

Hollyhock year at a glance: what to do and when
Task When What to do
Sowing Spring and summer Two to three seeds per hole, holes at least 12 inches (30 cm) apart
Collecting seed After blooming Harvest the seed capsules formed once the flowers are over
Sowing saved seed early spring or mid-spring, depending on climate zone Keep the seed in the dark over winter, then sow straight into the ground
Planting nursery pots Spring Space plants 12 inches (30 cm) apart and water regularly the first year
Deadheading Through flowering, midsummer to early autumn Remove wilted flowers regularly to boost flower-bearing
Cutting back End of the season Cut the dried stems; growth returns by itself the following year
Winter protection In colder regions Cover the base of the plant with mulch

Beyond these few dates, established hollyhocks look after themselves and reseed without help.

Which hollyhock variety to choose?

Hollyhocks range from towering singles for the back of a border to knee-high doubles happy in a large pot. The table below compares the varieties most often found on seed racks and in garden centres.

Which hollyhock variety to choose?
Variety Flower colour Flower form Best use
‘Queeny Purple’ Rich purple Semi-double Large pots, small gardens
Chater’s Double Mixed Mixed pink, red, white, yellow Fully double, peony-like Cottage borders, cutting
‘Summer Carnival’ Yellow, pink, red, white Double Quick colour from early sowing
‘Nigra’ Deep maroon, near black Single Against pale walls, back of border
‘Peaches ‘n’ Dreams’ Soft peach to apricot Double, ruffled Pastel colour schemes
‘Creme de Cassis’ Cream washed blackcurrant Single to semi-double Mixed borders, cutting

Diseases and parasites that attack hollyhock

Hollyhock rust

This plant is vulnerable to rust, a fungus that covers the leaves with rust-orange colored blotches.

  • Rust mostly develops in spring and summer if the weather is wet.
  • Leaves are mottled and turn brown before falling off.
  • Rust can kill a hollyhock plant.
  • As a preventive treatment, spraying with Bordeaux mixture in spring is mandatory.
  • As a curative treatment, only specialized treatments fighting rose tree diseases can do away with rust.

Hollyhock and aphids

In the insect parasite category, hollyhocks are vulnerable to aphid attacks.

All there is to know about hollyhock

Very beautiful perennials with abundant flowering all summer long, hollyhocks are a great addition to flower beds and along garden walls.

Hollyhock buds and flower
Flowers line long stems above sparse foliage

This plant has cute flowers that can be white, pink or even a purple so dark it’s almost black, aligned at the end of long stems with sparse foliage.

They are often seen along roads and sidewalks and they often re-seed themselves naturally almost everywhere. The strength of their roots lets them squeeze in virtually anywhere, and even lifts up the pavement off the street.

They are perfect flowers for prairie gardens, and are a good match to plants like althea or tree mallows which are both cousins of the hollyhock plant.

Hollyhocks have always been acknowledged to have soothing health benefits. Hollyhock flowers are perfectly edible and are often eaten raw, in salads, or steeped in hot water to make infusions.

Smart tip about hollyhock

It is recommended to stake them to keep them from bending over.
Along a wall, it is enough to attach them with a wire or string stretched from one end of the wall to the other.


Image credits (edits Gaspard Lorthiois):
CC BY-SA 2.0: Maria Eklind

Written by Gaspard Lorthiois | Loves helping out, especially when it comes to growing things. Worked in herbal medicine, runs a farm, and dabbles in tech. Master's degree and engineer.