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Tree mallow, long-lasting and beautiful blooming

Tree mallow flowers
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Lavatera, the tree mallow is a beautiful perennial that blooms generously for a long time.

Summary of top tree mallow facts
Name Lavatera
Family Malvaceae, the mallow family
Type Annual or short-lived perennial shrub
Height 20 inches to 6 feet (50 cm to 1.8 m), depending on the type
Exposure Full sun, sheltered from wind
Soil Ordinary, but well drained
Foliage Deciduous
Flowering July to October
Hardiness Down to 5 °F (−15 °C)
Lifespan Three to five years; take cuttings in April to replace it

Easy to care for, it is perfectly suited to balconies, terraces and to the garden.

Planting tree mallow

Planting tree mallow
Plant in a sunny spot out of the wind, a metre between plants.

Tree mallow is best planted in spring but it can also be planted in fall, especially in areas where the winter climate is mild.

  • Choose a sunny and wind-protected spot.
  • Tree mallow loves well drained soil.
  • Keep a planting distance of 32 inches (80 cm) to 3 feet (1 meter) between tree mallow plants in order for them to have the space they need to develop well.
  • Water regularly after planting, especially if planting in spring.

Propagating tree mallow

This is easy and it is even recommended to multiply your tree mallow so that the base of the plant can be regenerated over the years.

  • Propagate very easily through cuttings in April.

Sowing tree mallow

For annuals, sow in the vegetable patch directly in April and water on a regular basis.

Tree mallow on a terrace or balcony

Potted tree mallow
In a pot it wants water as soon as the surface dries, and feeding through the season.

Tree mallow adapts perfectly to being grown in pots or garden boxes. Very hardy, it resists low temperatures down to down to 5°F (-15°C).

  • In summer, water as soon as the soil is dry.
  • Add flower plant fertilizer during the year.

Trimming and caring for tree mallow

Watering tree mallow

Although this plant doesn’t require a lot of water, it is important to water it over the 1st year after planting so that roots can develop and the plant can settle in.

Trimming tree mallow

Tree mallow flowers on wood made the same year, which is what makes it forgiving: whatever
you cut in spring will be replaced by the time it blooms. The mistake is pruning in autumn, when
a hollow, freshly cut stem fills with water and rots through the winter.

When to cut, and how hard
Period What to do Why then
Early spring, as buds swell Cut the whole plant back hard, to about 12 inches (30 cm) Flowers form on new wood, so nothing is lost and the base stays furnished
Through summer Snap off spent flowers as you pass Seed-setting stops the plant flowering; deadheading keeps it going into October
Any time Remove reverted pink shoots on pale cultivars, at the base Reverted growth is more vigorous and takes over within two seasons
Autumn Nothing, beyond tidying broken stems Hollow cut stems fill with winter rain and rot down into the crown
Care for lavatera
Flowering runs from July to October, provided spent blooms are removed as they fade.

Remove wilted flowers during the blooming regularly in order to boost flower-bearing.

It is important to prune back short at the beginning of spring to give the plant vigor and avoid it growing too large.

  • Avoid pruning in the fall because this could lead the stump to rot.

All there is to know about tree mallow

A plant with abundant blooming, tree mallow also has the advantage of growing and spreading very fast.

Its flowers tend to bloom repeatedly from the month of June up until the first frost spells.

With its balanced shrubby silhouette, this annual or perennial plant will fit right in among other perennials or shrubs in a flower bed.

Tree mallow grows in the wild in the Mediterranean are, usually on rather poor and rocky ground.

Tree mallow diseases

  • Rust: Brown or tan blisters on the underside of leaves and yellow spots on the topside.

Which mallow do you actually have?

Three quite different plants are sold as tree mallow, and the care they need diverges on one
point only: how long they live, and therefore whether you replace them or prune them.

  • The annual, Lavatera trimestris, is sown in April where it is to
    flower and is finished by the first frosts. It is never pruned, only deadheaded.
  • The shrubby hybrids, Lavatera × clementii, are what
    most people mean by tree mallow. Soft-wooded, fast, three to five years of life, cut hard every
    spring.
  • The herbaceous perennial, Lavatera thuringiaca, dies back to the
    ground each winter and comes up again. It is the hardiest of the three and needs no spring
    pruning, only a clean-up of dead stems.
Species and cultivars, and what separates them
Name Type Height Flower What to know
L. trimestris Annual 24 to 32 in (60 to 80 cm) Large and satiny, white to deep pink Sown in place in April. ‘Silver Cup’ and ‘Mont Blanc’ are the usual strains
× clementii ‘Rosea’ Shrubby perennial 6 ft (1.8 m) Clear mid-pink The most robust and the longest-lived of the hybrids
× clementii ‘Barnsley’ Shrubby perennial 6 ft (1.8 m) Near-white with a red eye, ageing to pink Reverts to plain pink. Cut reverted shoots out at the base
× clementii ‘Burgundy Wine’ Shrubby perennial 5 ft (1.5 m) Deep magenta with darker veins Holds its colour in sun far better than the pale forms
× clementii ‘Bredon Springs’ Shrubby perennial 5 ft (1.5 m) Dusky mauve-pink The longest season of the group, often still going in late October
L. thuringiaca Herbaceous perennial 4 ft (1.2 m) Soft pink Dies back to the ground and returns. The hardiest of the three types
L. maritima Sub-shrub 3 ft (1 m) Pale lilac with a dark eye Mediterranean and the least hardy. Needs sharp drainage and a wall

The rule that follows from the table: anything labelled × clementii is cut back
hard in spring and replaced from cuttings every few years. Anything else is either sown afresh or
left alone.

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Your reactions
  • Anne firmin wrote on 8 October 2021 at 22 h 04 min

    My laverteria looks nearly dead through delivery all the leaves are dead . Will it be ok pruning in spring keep in cold frame

    • Gaspard wrote on 9 October 2021 at 3 h 32 min

      Yes, it sounds like it suffered a lot during the transport, I’m sorry to hear that! The advantage is that this triggered the dormant phase, so your thinking is correct: it’s ready for winter. Plant it as described in the article, perhaps soak the clump in not-too-cold water for 5 minutes before putting it in the ground if you haven’t planted it yet (don’t dig it up if you’ve already transferred it to the ground). If it’s in a cold frame it’s even better, spread a little mulch (hay… or any other plant mulch) around the base to keep it warmer, too.

      When spring starts coming in (be on the lookout for grape hyacinth and daffodils to give you the signal), you can go ahead and prune it. Normally it should have survived all three ordeals: transpo, transplant and winter!