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Leycesteria formosa, the Himalayan honeysuckle

Himalayan honeysuckle
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Few shrubs bring so much late-season theatre as Himalayan honeysuckle (Leycesteria formosa). Its arching, bamboo-like canes drip with chains of white flowers sheathed in claret-red bracts from midsummer until October, then turn to glossy purple-black berries that the blackbirds strip through autumn. Cut it hard in spring, and it flowers on the growth it makes that same year – which makes it one of the easiest shrubs to keep in shape.

Himalayan honeysuckle facts

NameLeycesteria formosa
FamilyCaprifoliaceae
Type – deciduous shrub, often grown as a cut-back subshrub

Height – 5 to 6½ ft (1.5 to 2 m), as much across
Exposure – full sun to part shade
Soil – any moist but well-drained soil, clay and chalk included

Hardiness – about 5°F (−15°C) – Flowering – June to October

Arching cane of Himalayan honeysuckle carrying drooping chains of white flowers in claret bracts
The arching canes carry their flowers along the whole length, hanging downward. This habit needs room: allow 4 to 5 ft (1.2 to 1.5 m) between plants.

Where to plant it

Himalayan honeysuckle is refreshingly unfussy. It flowers most freely in full sun or dappled shade, but copes with several hours of shade a day – useful under a high tree canopy or against a north-facing fence. In deep shade expect leggier canes and fewer flowers.

  • Soil: almost anything reasonable, from heavy clay to thin chalk, provided it is not waterlogged all winter. Any pH suits it.
  • Ideal: a moisture-retentive but free-draining loam with plenty of organic matter.
  • Cold: top growth is cut back by hard frost below about 10°F (−12°C), but established plants regrow reliably from the base.
  • Uses: excellent in a shrub section, in a mixed border, or as an informal flowering hedge.

In mild maritime gardens it behaves as a true shrub; inland, treat it as a cut-back subshrub and mulch the crown.

Planting Himalayan honeysuckle

Plant container-grown shrubs in autumn or early spring, when the soil is warm and naturally moist. Autumn planting gives the roots a head start before the first flowering season. Our general guidelines for planting a shrub apply here without change.

  • Spacing: 4 to 5 ft (1.2 to 1.5 m) between plants, or 3 ft (1 m) for a fast informal screen.
  • Depth: set the rootball level with the surrounding soil. Planting too deep encourages rot at the base of the canes.
  • Preparation: fork a bucketful of compost or well-rotted manure into the hole, and break up compacted subsoil on clay.
  • Watering in: soak thoroughly, then keep the rootball damp through the whole first growing season.

Pruning: the one thing to get right

Prune in March or early April, cutting every stem back to 12 to 24 in (30 to 60 cm), or right to the ground for a neater, more vigorous shrub. Nothing is lost: the flowers come on the new growth.

  • Remove any frost-blackened tips at the same time.
  • Follow with a mulch of compost and a handful of general fertilizer.
  • Never prune in autumn. The hollow canes shelter the crown from frost, and cutting them early is the commonest cause of winter losses.
  • A light trim after each flush of flowers encourages branching, if you want a denser plant.

The same principle governs most shrubs that flower on new wood – see our guide to pruning shrubs.

Care through the year

  • Spring: hard prune, then mulch and feed.
  • Summer: water young plants in prolonged drought; established shrubs manage on their own. Do not deadhead – the spent flowers become the berries.
  • Autumn: leave the berries for the birds. Resist cutting the canes down. Mulch the base with leaf mould in colder gardens.
  • Winter: the pale green upright canes look well against frost. Leave them standing until spring.
Close-up of a drooping flower chain with claret bracts, white tubular flowers and dark berries forming
White tubular flowers emerge from claret bracts, and the first purple-black berries form while the chain is still in flower. The plant is in bloom and in fruit at the same time for weeks.

Which variety to choose

The species is lovely, but four selections offer brighter foliage or a tidier frame.

Variety What sets it apart Best used
‘Golden Lanterns’ Golden-yellow leaves flushed pink at the margins, with the usual claret bracts Part shade – full sun scorches the foliage
‘Purple Rain’ Deeper, richer bracts and a slightly more upright habit Mixed borders where you want the flower colour to carry
‘Notbruce’ (sold as GOLDEN PHEASANT) Vivid chartreuse foliage all summer Lighting up a shady border
‘Jealousy’ Compact and denser, around 4 ft (1.2 m) Small gardens and large containers

Propagating it

Three methods, in order of ease:

  • Self-sown seedlings: simply lift and pot the seedlings that appear beneath an established plant. Free, and the surest of the three.
  • Cuttings: take 6 in (15 cm) hardwood cuttings in late autumn.
  • Division: lift and split the crown in autumn.

Problems and how to deal with them

  • Too much self-seeding – berries dropped beneath the plant germinate freely. Remove the fruiting stems in early autumn, and hoe off seedlings while small: they pull out easily.
  • Frost-blackened canes – alarming but rarely fatal. Cut back to healthy green wood, or to the ground, in spring.
  • Aphids on the soft new tips in late spring – a jet of water is usually enough; ladybirds and hoverflies do the rest.
  • Otherwise remarkably healthy. Leycesteria resists most diseases and asks for no routine treatment.

Good for wildlife

Outstandingly so, and for an unusually long stretch of the year. The flowering season from June to October provides nectar for bumblebees when most shrubs have finished, and the purple-black berries are a favourite of blackbirds, thrushes and pheasants – hence the name pheasant berry. It sits well among other berrying shrubs planted for birds.

Bumblebee feeding at the white flowers of a Himalayan honeysuckle chain
A carder bee at work in late summer. The long flowering season is precisely what makes this shrub valuable to pollinators.

Smart tip about Himalayan honeysuckle

Prune hard in early spring, never in autumn. Those two half-sentences contain almost everything that separates a shapely, free-flowering plant from a sprawling one that dies back at the crown. The hollow canes are the shrub’s own winter coat – leave them on.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Leycesteria formosa invasive?

It depends where you garden. It is classed as an invasive weed in New Zealand, parts of Australia and coastal areas of western North America, where birds carry the seed into native bush. In British and northern European gardens it self-seeds enthusiastically but is easily controlled: remove the fruiting stems in early autumn and hoe off seedlings while they are small.

How fast does Himalayan honeysuckle grow?

Very fast. A spring-pruned plant will typically throw up 5 to 6½ ft (1.5 to 2 m) of new cane in a single season and flower on it the same year. Expect a young plant to reach full size within two to three years of planting.

When and how hard should I prune it?

In March or early April, cutting all stems back to 12–24 in (30–60 cm), or right down to the base for a neater and more vigorous shrub. Never prune in autumn: the hollow canes shelter the crown from frost, and removing them early is the commonest cause of winter damage.

Is it good for wildlife?

Outstandingly. The June-to-October flowering provides nectar for bumblebees when most shrubs have finished, and the purple-black berries are a favourite of blackbirds, thrushes and pheasants.

Is it hardy? Will it survive a cold winter?

It is hardy to about 5°F (−15°C). Below roughly 10°F (−12°C) the top growth is killed, but an established plant regrows from the base in spring. In cold inland gardens, mulch the crown and simply treat it as a cut-back subshrub.

Are the berries edible?

They are edible but insipid, sometimes said to taste faintly of caramel – hence the name flowering nutmeg. They are worth far more to the birds than to you, so leave them on the plant.

Is Himalayan honeysuckle a real honeysuckle?

No. True honeysuckles belong to the genus Lonicera. Leycesteria formosa shares only the family, Caprifoliaceae, and neither its climbing habit nor its scent.

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