Solanum, Potato vine, a jasmine look-alike

Potato vine, also called jasmine nightshade for the resemblance they share, is a marvelous climbing vine.

A summary of Potato vine facts

NameSolanum jasminoides
Family – Solanaceae or nightshade
Type – shrub, climbing vine

Height
 – 16 feet (5 m)
Exposure – full sun
Soil – well-drained

Foliage
 – semi-evergreen or evergreen
Flowering – July to November

Caring for it, from planting to pruning, is easy and its blooming is often spectacular.

Planting Potato vine

The planting of potato vine is ideally performed in spring, but summer is also fine for planting this potato vine provided it is well watered at the beginning.

It is possible to plant this nightshade in fall in mild-wintered areas or areas with a Mediterranean-type climate.

  • Even though it is a climbing vine, potato vine is planted like a shrub.
  • Follow the same planting steps.

Propagating potato vine

If a particular potato vine pleases you so much that you wish to propagate it, simply prepare cuttings or layer it in summer.

Caring for and pruning potato vine

Caring for potato vine

Potato vine is an easy plant to care for, and only very little care and maintenance is required of you.

  • Water regularly during the first 2 years after planting.
  • Adding fertilizer in spring and summer will boost and extend the blooming.

Pruning potato vine

Pruning isn’t really needed but you can still balance or reduce branches overall.

Indeed, potato vine can quickly become invasive if it has settled in well, and that’s why pruning it often can help control it.

  • Prune both in in spring and summer if you need to prune several times. If once a year is enough, better in spring, then.
  • When pruning, watch for dead wood, broken branches or weak ones and remove them.
  • Never prune in fall because this would weaken your potato vine just before winter.

Potato vine in winter and how to protect it from the cold

Potato vine is vulnerable to freezing. It can resist low temperatures, but below 23°F (-5°C) or or 21°F (-6 °C), you’ll need to winterize it against the cold or it will die.

The first years, it is crucial to protect its roots with a thick layer of dried leaves, for example at least 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm).

If the leaves have frozen and died, simply cut everything off in spring and your potato vine should grow anew if the roots were well protected.

Learn more about potato vine

The potato vine, also called nightshade jasmine, is a beautiful shrub native to Brazil. Its flowers do look very similar to those of jasmine.

It has the advantage of climbing when latticed and it offers very beautiful flowers that smell like jasmine, too.

Easy to care for and to grow, you can set it up at the foot of a wall, fence or even a tree that will serve as a surface for it to climb along.

Smart tip about potato vine

Plant it near a spot where you like to relax or dine in your garden so that its fragrance can bring you happiness.

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  • Jodi wrote on 6 November 2018 at 16 h 33 min

    Hi! I’m in Zone 5. I just bought my first potato vine in August, off the clearance shelf at my local greenhouse, looking so pitiful I had to try to rescue it. I potted it because I knew it wouldn’t survive outside in my zone. It was improving outdoors, provided some new blooms and foliage. It never has shown much foliage. I wouldn’t call the growth “significant,” but it looked strong and relatively healthy, compared with when I bought it. It’s about 2 feet tall from the top of the soil to the top of the tallest branches. I have never really *pruned* it, just kept it tidy, snipping off the dead stuff it came with. About three weeks ago, just before the first hard freeze, I brought the plant indoors (in the same container it was in outside, with some Bonide Systemic Houseplant Insect Control added to the soil). I have large, south-ish-facing windows, and it gets some direct sun, but mostly indirect sunlight. It finished blooming in the past day or two, and is now looking pretty ragged again. The thickest stems feel a bit rubbery to the touch, if that makes sense …? A lot of the tiny new-growth branches browned up and died, and now I’m noticing brownish, even more sparse foliage. My pot does have a drainage hole, and the plant seemed happy in it outside. I’m wondering if indoor potato vines go dormant during the winter months? Would now be a good time for a significant pruning? Should I repot with indoor potting soil and take extra measures to further improve drainage? Any other ideas? I am determined to save this beautiful plant! Thanks!

    • Gaspard Lorthiois wrote on 8 November 2018 at 13 h 49 min

      Dear Jodi, thanks for providing such detailed context! First off, it’s quite normal that change from out- to indoors would give the plant some form of a shock, it would have actually been strange for it to keep on going as if nothing had happened.

      Blooming is expected to stop in November, so that’s pretty much on. As for the rubbery stems, this vine stays flexible for the first few years of growth, it would only turn woody on older growth. However, if it’s outright mushy then you might be losing the plant to rot due to overwatering. If this happens, best salvage healthy parts and make cuttings, because recovering from root rot is virtually impossible.

      Yes, potato vine does go dormant in winter, to answer your question. Perhaps having it indoors near windows is actually too warm and dry for it. It would be best to move it to a cool place that still gets plenty of light, because now that the blooming is over, the plant will want to focus more on roots.

      Potato vine likes rather large pots, around 1 ½ feet (40-45 cm) and you can plant in such a large pot directly, no need to upsize incrementally. Great that you’ve provided proper drainage. Have you checked that water doesn’t accumulate at the bottom of the pot because of the saucer under it? 10 to 15 minutes after watering, if you still see water in the saucer, dump all the excess water out.

      Pruning dead plant material off is possible in any season as long as you’re only cutting in the dead wood. If you want to snip some live bits off, best wait until spring: again, the dormant winter phase is when Solanum jasminoides focuses on underground growth, and having wounds to heal isn’t the best at this time.

      So to sum it up, it feels to me like your potato vine might be shaken up due to moving to a place that is consistently hotter and drier than what it expected given the season, and trying to find a cooler place with light (as long as it doesn’t freeze) should let it have a restful dormant period.

      I’m sure it’ll do great under your diligent care, Jodi!

  • Pat Hoffman wrote on 21 October 2018 at 0 h 52 min

    My potato vine is showing more yellow leaves at the bottom. It is in a pot against a wall and has grown aggressively. It seems to absorb watering quickly. I water daily but it goes dry overnight. Should I water 2x daily? Is this the cause of the yellowing of leaves?

    • Gaspard Lorthiois wrote on 21 October 2018 at 18 h 28 min

      Hi Pat! First of all, one possibility for the yellowing of leaves might simply be fall: in colder areas, your potato vine would lose its leaves. But I’d probably associate the yellowing of your solanum potato vine leaves in this case to water stress because:

      * It’s growing in a pot. Pot-grown plants notoriously need a lot more water. This is even more true of terra cotta pots where water evaporates along the side of the pot. If you’ve got a terra cotta pot, you’ll help the pot retail a little water by rolling any type of plastic material around it, to cut wind off around the pot and lock moisture in. Or, you could lower the pot below ground level with the pot-in-pot technique, that would also cover that problem.

      * It’s in full sun. That’s good because the plant needs that.

      * It’s against a wall. That doubles the amount of heat and reflected light it gets, and shields off disturbing winds. It’s not a bad thing.

      * You seem to practice watering in the morning. Much of the water given in the morning will evaporate before the plant even gets it.

      So it’s quite normal that a), your plant grows stunningly lush and b) having reached these limitations, it starts feeling water stress.

      What to do:

      * Mulch the pot with shredded dried leaves, wood chips or cocoa hulls, anything to add a top layer of water-retaining organic material.
      * Try watering in the evening. Your plant should soak up all the water overnight and should be able to cope with the entire next day.
      * If you’re so inclined, try using hydrogel water crystals in your plant soil.
      * If after a few days it doesn’t seem to help, you’ll have to either choose to trim it back to lessen water demand, transplant it to the ground in another spot, pot it in a larger container for a larger water reserve, find a way to water more continuously with a bottle drip…
      * or simply, as you wondered, water twice daily!

      Just ensure the water drains well, because stopping up the hole under the pot to just “keep the water in” would only work the first few days: as soon as water starts accumulating, root rot might occur.

      Hope this helps!

  • Sue Walters wrote on 25 September 2018 at 10 h 46 min

    Thank you Gaspard for all your help & information
    As Summer is approaching & the leaves have stayed green, I have decided to keep it in full sun, where it is & hope by winter it is much more established. If not, I will purchase a new plant…
    Kind regards
    Sue

  • Sue Walters wrote on 16 September 2018 at 6 h 19 min

    My potatoe plant climber leaves go yellow then fall off, it has only one stem which has wound its way around the trellis
    Please help, it has been in for over a year.
    Thanks kindly
    Sue

    • Gaspard Lorthiois wrote on 16 September 2018 at 8 h 18 min

      Dear Sue, I’d love to help out, but I would need a bit more information, if you can share it:
       
      * Where is your plant growing – in a house, a lean-in or outside, is it potted or growing in the ground? Do you live near the sea, in what country?
      * Are the leaves falling off from bottom to top, or from top to bottom?

      Possibilities range from simple lack of nutrients (fertilize with mostly anything, the plant isn’t picky) to fungal infections, which might require more care (repotting to ensure clean soil and better drainage, especially).

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