The end of summer and fall are without doubt the best time to create or renovate a lawn.
That is when temperatures allow for quick growing and proper root development before winter. It is also the best manner of having a stupendous lawn in the following spring.
When grass has been sown, it turns into a lawn after a few years. That is when regular maintenance can help you keep a very beautiful lawn in your garden. Fall is when a hefty part of this maintenance must be performed.
💡 Did you know?
Fall seeding outcompetes spring weeds: warm soil + cool air = faster germination and deeper roots.
Ideal soil temperature at 1–2 in (2.5–5 cm) depth is 50–65°F (10–18°C); a simple soil thermometer helps timing.
Shredding fallen leaves with the mower feeds the soil and can replace some raking while improving turf density.
Rule of thirds: never remove more than ⅓ of the blade height in a single mowing; higher mowing helps shade out moss and weeds.
Overseeding is most effective right after dethatching or aeration, when seed can contact soil.
Water new seed lightly 1–2× daily to keep the top ½″ (1–1.5 cm) moist; after sprouting, switch to deeper, less frequent watering.
Do a soil test every few years before adding lime; most cool-season grasses prefer pH around 6.0–7.0.
Choose certified seed with high germination and minimal weed seed; match mixes (sun/shade, wear, drought) to your site.
Creating and sowing a lawn
Sow when soil is warm and moist for quick, even germination.
If you’ve chosen to sow and create your lawn yourself, follow our tips and you’ll succeed for sure. This step isn’t very difficult, and can even be a great source of enjoyment, especially when the first sprouts start appearing.
Perform when temperatures still hover above 55°F (12°C) and soil is workable.
Choose your seed mix according to use: fine fescues for low-input lawns, ryegrass for quick cover, tall fescue for drought tolerance.
Prepare the ground:
Clear stones, roots, and old turf; roughly level the area.
Improve drainage with sand on heavy soils; add compost on poor soils.
Rake to a fine tilth and lightly firm (heel in or roll).
Sow evenly (crosswise passes), then rake very lightly to cover seed ~¼ in (5–6 mm).
Firm again with a light roller to ensure seed-to-soil contact.
Water gently and keep surface uniformly moist until germination.
First mow when blades reach 3–3.5 in (8–9 cm); cut to 2.5 in (6–7 cm).
Dethatching lifts moss, burweed and built-up clippings to let air and water in.
Dethatching is recommended every year. This particular step, purely optional, is nonetheless very effective to clean, aerate and revive your lawn. Since summer has ended, your lawn has suffered a lot from the heat and needs to be jump-started to start growing back again.
When: early to mid-fall while soil is warm and rain returns.
Tools: manual thatch rake for small areas; electric/petrol scarifier for larger lawns.
How: work in two perpendicular passes; rake up debris and compost it (if weed-seed free).
Follow up: overseed + top-dress + water for rapid fill-in.
Bonus: improves infiltration, reduces disease pressure, and thickens turf.
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