Along a single tall stem, dozens of tight little cabbage heads swell one above the other, some forty per plant. Brussels sprouts (Brassica gemmifera) are valued as a winter source of vitamin C, fibre and minerals; give them cool, deep, moist and rich soil and they crop from early autumn through to early spring.
| Name | Brassica gemmifera |
|---|---|
| Family | brassicas |
| Type | biennial vegetable |
| Exposure | full sun |
| Soil | cool, deep, moist and rich |
| Sowing | Early spring to early summer |
| Harvest | Early autumn to early spring |
| Productivity | more or less 40 pieces per stem |
Special care, from sowing and planting up to harvest, will help you grow magnificent Brussels sprouts.
Brussels sprouts are generally sown at the end of winter or in spring in a sheltered place, to be transplanted outdoors from early spring to late summer.
Sow in early spring and mid-spring to harvest in fall and in mid-spring or late spring for a harvest in winter and in spring.
>> More details on timing the sowing to extend the harvest
Sprouting usually happens 8 to 10 days after sowing.
As soon as seedlings have sprouted at least 3 to 4 leaves, transplant them to their target location. Protect the seedlings if you need to plant them before late spring.
Brussels sprouts love rather cool soil and requires watering on a regular basis in case of dry spells.
Brussels sprouts are harvested as the main stem grows taller and taller. Start with harvesting the pieces near the base, and slowly pick them higher and higher.
The main enemy of Brussels sprouts is downy mildew. Moisture is the primary factor that enables the spread of downy mildew.
Note that Brussels sprouts are also the target of aphids and, of course, caterpillars (the large white is particularly devastating).
For these two parasites, avoid chemical treatments at any cost, because your vegetables and soil could absorb contaminants.
Clubroot swells and distorts brassica roots, so do not plant Brussels sprouts where cabbage, kale or broccoli grew the year before.
Varieties differ mainly in height, productivity and, to a lesser degree, flavour. Here is how the most commonly grown ones compare.
| Variety | Habit and sprout size | Hardiness and earliness |
|---|---|---|
| ‘Dagan’ | Grows straight and regular | Not stated |
| ‘Jade Cross’ | Heads smaller than normal, under 3 cm across | Not stated |
| ‘Long Island Improved’ | Not stated | More frost hardy than other varieties |
| ‘Sanda’ | Not stated | Hardy, and produces earlier |
Whichever you grow, bring the crop in before it freezes really hard.
Stake tall Brussels sprout stems on windy, exposed plots; a plant rocked loose or blown over can suffer root damage, so its sprouts often fill more slowly or unevenly.
F1 hybrids such as ‘Jade Cross’ ripen their sprouts fairly evenly, which suits gardeners who want to strip a whole stem at once and freeze it.
Brussels sprouts are vegetables that are over 90% water, so they only count few calories, and they have high Vitamin C and fiber contents, too. What makes this a particularly relevant crop is the timing: brussels sprouts is a winter source of nutrients.
They also gather many minerals such as potassium, calcium and magnesium.
Finally, the antioxidant lutein and zeaxanthin that it provides help slow ageing.
Brussels sprouts are thus an excellent vegetable that could even help fight ageing and cancer.
Varieties differ in that they’re taller or shorter, more or less productive, and, to a lesser degree, the diversity of their flavors.
Here are a few of the most common varieties:
Provide your cabbage with extra nutrients (fertilizer, manure and seaweed-based compost) to boost growth and especially enhance your own harvest!
