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Echeveria, a succulent family with unique leafage

Echeveria
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Tight rosettes of thick, water-filled leaves that rise to barely 8 inches once the summer flowers appear: echeveria is a Mexican succulent grown above all for its particularly appealing leafage. Excess water is what most often kills it, so give it light, very well-drained soil and it will keep unfurling new leaves for years.

Echeveria at a glance
Name Echeveria
Family Crassulaceae
Type Succulent plant, perennial
Height 8 inches (20 cm) with flower
Propagation Pups, leaf props
Exposure Well-lit
Soil Light, very well-drained
Flowering Summer

The care it calls for is minimal, but these simple practices will make each echeveria look even nicer.

Planting echeveria indoors or outdoors?

This plant is suited to mild climates, and should preferably be cultivated indoors if you fear frost. Indeed, the slightest frost would kill it.

Planting and repotting your indoor Echeveria

It’s a great idea to grow Echeveria indoors: it doesn’t need much care and keeps unfurling leaves at a regular and satisfying rhythm.

Indoor echeveria
Every pot needs a drainage hole underneath
  • You may repot your echeveria just after purchasing it if you’ve purchased it while it wasn’t flowering.
  • After that, an annual repotting in spring with soil mix amended with sand will extend the lifespan of your echeveria.

Extra important: make sure your pot has a hole for excess water to drain out. Cute pots must be drilled through underneath.

Planting Echeveria outdoors

  • Echeveria can only survive outdoors in winter in the southernmost regions.
  • Echeveria outdoors
    Pozzolana mulch sets off these outworldish plants

    If planting outside, prefer full sun exposure.

  • Select a location that drains very well: too much water will kill the plant.
  • Don’t water, normal precipitations should be enough to cover the needs of your outdoor echeveria.
  • A beautiful mulch that highlights these outworldish plants is pozzolana (shown right above).

Propagating echeveria

Echeveria produces small suckers at the base of stems, and these can be replanted and take root easily.

Echeveria propagation
Detached rosettes take root easily in sandy mix
  • Carefully detach a small rosette from the stem.
  • Then, fill a small nursery pot with adequate substrate (soil mix, sand and compost).
  • Mark a hole with your fingers.
  • Delicately place the rosette.
  • Finally, press the soil down around the buried stem of the small rosette.

For succulent leaf propagation, gently rock or twist the leaf side to side until it detaches cleanly, since a leaf missing part of its base is unlikely to sprout roots or pups.

Caring for echeveria

Although caring for echeveria is relatively straightforward, a few tips will help you grow a very nice, long-living plant:

echeveria care
Deadheading stimulates the plant to produce new flowers
  • Remove wilted flowers regularly (deadheading).
    This step isn’t mandatory but it will help stimulate the plant to produce new flowers.
  • Re-potting in spring in a pot that is slightly larger than the previous will extend the lifespan of your echeveria.
  • Adding a flower plant fertilizer will help extend the blooming and increase its beauty.

The lifespan of an Echeveria plant can range anywhere from 3 years to several decades depending on the variety, care, and growing conditions.

Make sure you always have a few leaf props going from your favorite variety if ever it unexpectedly dries up or mushes out!

Beheading an elongated, leggy echeveria

When an echeveria doesn’t get enough light, it starts growing tall. Leaves are sparse around a long, thin stem. This means the plant is reaching for light.

leggy echeveria
Too little light stretches the stem and spaces leaves

The only way forward is to ensure the plant has enough light, and then behead the Echeveria to give it a fresh start.

  • Move the plant to where it has more light.
  • Eventually, purchase supplemental lighting (grow lights) for succulents.

Once the problem of your echeveria lacking light is solved, you can behead the succulent:

  • Cut the Echeveria stem just below the head (about ½ inch or 1½ cm from the head) with a sharp, clean knife or razor.
  • Cure or dry the cut Echeveria head in the air for at least 8 hours up to 3 days.
  • Place the head in a new pot with fresh soil mix (equal parts soil mix, compost and sand).
  • New roots will start sprouting from the cut mark within three weeks to one month.

You can use the leaves from the remaining stem to prepare cuttings, as a form of leaf propagation. The slang for this is called “leaf props“.

Watering echeveria indoors

Watering echeveria
Water only once the soil has dried well
  • During the blooming, 1 to 2 waterings a week, only when the soil has dried well.
  • Apart from the blooming season, 1 to 2 waterings a fortnight.
  • In winter, light watering 1 time a month is largely enough.

In any case, it is important to wait for the soil to have dried well before watering, in which case it is also better to water once rarely with a significant amount instead of many moderate sessions.

BE CAREFUL! Leaves from succulents are loaded with water. If they start collapsing, it’s a sign that they need more water.

How much water, and when

Echeveria stores its own water in its leaves, so the watering rhythm changes with the season and with where the plant lives. Use this table to decide before you pick up the watering can.

How much water, and when
Period Watering frequency Condition to respect
Blooming season, indoors 1 to 2 waterings a week Only when the soil has dried well
Outside the blooming season, indoors 1 to 2 waterings a fortnight Wait for the soil to have dried well
Winter, indoors Light watering once a month Largely enough at that time of year
All year, outdoors No watering at all Rainfall covers the plant’s needs

Whatever the season, one generous soaking of dry soil beats several small sprinklings.

Which echeveria to choose

Almost every echeveria wants the same light and the same gritty, free-draining compost, so the choice comes down to leaf colour, rosette shape and how much room the plant will take on a windowsill. The varieties below are the ones most often found on garden centre and supermarket shelves.

Which echeveria to choose
Variety Leaf colour Rosette form Size band Best use
‘Black Prince’ Deep maroon to near-black Narrow, tapering leaves Small to medium Contrast in mixed bowls
‘Blue Curls’ Blue-green, pink edges Heavily ruffled leaves Large Solo display pot
‘Blue Bird’ Chalky powder blue Broad, cupped rosette Medium to large Sunny patio pot in summer
‘Violet Queen’ Grey-green, violet cast Star-shaped, pointed Small to medium Massed in trays
‘Pink Frills’ Blue-grey, pink flush Crimped, wavy edges Small to medium Shallow bowls
‘Purple Pearl’ Dusky purple-grey Rounded, cupped leaves Medium Year-round houseplant
‘Ruby Blush’ Green with red margins Furry leaves, shrubby stems Medium Shrubby pot, winter flowers
‘Doris Taylor’ Silvery green, felted Woolly, open rosette Medium Indoors, keep leaves dry
‘Perle von Nürnberg’ Grey-lilac, pink flush Broad, pointed leaves Medium Feature pot indoors
‘Lola’ Pale blue-grey, pink tips Very tight, symmetrical Small Small pots, gifts
‘Topsy Turvy’ Silvery blue Leaves curled back, spiky look Medium Sculptural single pot
‘Afterglow’ Powdery lavender, pink edges Wide, open rosette Large Statement container
‘Neon Breakers’ Purple-pink, bright margins Frilled, wavy leaves Small to medium Colour in a windowsill group
‘Lipstick’ Apple green, red tips Stiff, triangular leaves Small to medium Bright windowsill

All there is to know about echeveria

Echeveria 'Perle von Nurnberg' variety
A Mexican native grown for its appealing leaves

Native to Mexico, echeveria is a very beautiful succulent with particularly appealing leaves.

With its reduced need for care, it poses practically no difficulty to the caretaker.

Although excess water is what most often kills it, it also likes having alot of light, but not scorching direct sun, as when behind a window. This would cause echeveria sunburn.

You can set it in a pot or a garden box, along edges or on rocky ground.

Special tip about Echeveria

Amending the soil with organic fertilizer will favor blooming, so you must take care not to provoke this during the Echeveria’s dormant state, from mid-autumn to late winter.

  • Water the plant first, then feed: fertiliser poured onto bone-dry compost can scorch echeveria’s fine roots.
  • Pour the feed onto the soil surface, never into the rosette, where trapped liquid rots the crown and washes off the powdery farina.
  • An echeveria just moved into fresh compost needs no extra feed until it has rooted in.

Images: CC BY-SA 2.0: salchu, Pixabay: Barbara Baldocchi, Freeworld360, Johanna, Yung-pin Pao, Luís Gonçalves, Мария Ку, Selma K., workingDOG, CC BY 4.0: Kim & Forest Starr

Written by Gaspard Lorthiois | Loves helping out, especially when it comes to growing things. Worked in herbal medicine, runs a farm, and dabbles in tech. Master's degree and engineer.