Small, red, slightly chewy and faintly sweet, goji berries arrived in Western kitchens as dried fruit sold by the bag. This page sets out what the berry really contains, what traditional Chinese herbalism makes of it, how to soak, brew and cook with it tonight, and the handful of people who should leave it alone.
Goji berry at a glance
Item
Detail
Botanical name
Lycium barbarum (and Lycium chinense)
Family
Solanaceae (nightshades)
Part used
Ripe fruit, fresh or dried; the leaves are used as a tea in China
Forms of use
Dried berries eaten as they are, soaked, infused, juiced, powdered, or simmered in soups and stews
Harvest season
Late summer to mid-autumn, picked as the berries turn deep orange-red
Taste
Mildly sweet and tangy — somewhere between a cranberry, a raisin and a sun-dried tomato
Most goji reaching Western shops is sold dried, not fresh
What it is credited with
Traditional Chinese medicine classes the dried berry (gou qi zi) as a gentle tonic, taken over long periods rather than in a single dose.
In that same tradition it has a long-standing reputation for easing tiredness and restoring stamina in people who feel run down.
Chinese herbalism traditionally associates it with the liver and the kidneys, and with what it calls vital essence — the reason it appears in tonics linked to male vitality.
It is traditionally simmered into tonic soups and broths during the cold half of the year, often alongside dates, ginger and chicken.
Because of its carotenoid content, tradition connects the berry with the eyes; it is commonly infused with chrysanthemum flowers for that purpose.
Naturopathy credits it with an antioxidant, anti-ageing reputation, on the grounds that carotenoids help the body deal with free radicals.
Modern marketing added a great deal on top of all this. A good many scientists point out that the more spectacular claims are not backed by solid trials — worth remembering before paying superfood prices.
How to use it
Straight from the bag
A small handful of dried berries, eaten as a snack, is the simplest form — chewy, sweet-sour, no preparation.
Scatter a spoonful over porridge, yoghurt, muesli or a green salad.
Stir a spoonful into a fruit or vegetable smoothie; they blend more smoothly if soaked first.
Soaked
Cover a small handful of dried berries with warm water and leave them for a quarter of an hour.
They plump up, soften and lose their leathery edge.
Drink the soaking water too — it turns pale orange and tastes faintly of apricot.
Infusion
Put a generous teaspoon of dried berries in a cup, pour on water just off the boil, cover, and leave five to ten minutes.
Add a few dried chrysanthemum flowers or a slice of fresh ginger if you want more character.
One to two cups a day is the usual rhythm in traditional use; eat the softened berries at the bottom rather than throwing them out.
Cooked
Add a handful to a chicken or vegetable broth in the last ten minutes of simmering.
They work well in rice congee, pilafs, stewed pork, and slow-cooked pulses.
Do not boil them hard for long — they disintegrate and turn the dish cloudy.
Fresh berries
If you grow the shrub, pick from late summer to mid-autumn when the fruit is soft and deeply coloured.
Fresh berries are more perishable but keep more of their vitamin C than dried ones.
Wear gloves: the branches carry thorns, and the ripe fruit bruises at a touch.
Ways of using goji, compared
Form
Preparation
Traditionally used for
Dried berries, eaten plain
Straight from the bag, a small handful
An everyday tonic snack in Chinese households
Soaked berries
Warm water, a quarter of an hour
Softer texture; the soaking water is drunk as a light tonic
Infusion
A teaspoon of berries, hot water, five to ten minutes, covered
Often paired with chrysanthemum in the tradition linking goji to the eyes
Tonic broth
A handful added near the end of simmering
Cold-season restorative soups, with dates and ginger
Juice or powder
Commercial preparations, diluted or stirred into drinks
Convenience formats; concentration and quality vary a great deal
Fresh fruit keeps more vitamin C than the dried version
Growing your own
The shrub is hardy, tolerates poor soil and wind, and fruits from its second or third year.
It suckers freely — give it room, or a large container.
Home-grown fruit sidesteps the pesticide question entirely.
The one thing to remember: buy organic dried berries, soak a small handful in warm water for a quarter of an hour, and eat them with the soaking liquid — it is the cheapest, safest and most traditional way to use goji.
Are goji berries really a superfood, or just clever marketing?
The nutrient list is genuine: carotenoids, several vitamins, amino acids and trace elements are all present in the dried fruit. What tipped into marketing was the long list of miracle effects piled on top of that, which many scientists say no serious trial supports. Treat goji as a nutritious dried fruit with a long tonic tradition behind it, not as a cure for anything.
Fresh or dried — which is better?
Fresh fruit keeps more of its vitamin C, since drying costs some of it. Fresh berries are only available where the shrub is grown locally, and they keep just a few days. Dried berries are the practical everyday option and are what traditional Chinese use is built on.
How many can I eat in a day?
A small handful is the usual serving, whether eaten plain, soaked or cooked into a dish. Traditional use favours small amounts taken regularly over large amounts taken occasionally. Given the pesticide question and the risk of allergic reaction, moderation is the sensible line.
When are goji berries harvested?
From late summer to mid-autumn, once the fruit has turned deep orange-red and feels soft. The branches are thorny and the ripe berries bruise easily, so pick with gloves and a light hand. Fruit intended for drying is spread out in a single layer somewhere warm and airy.
Is there anyone who should avoid goji?
Yes. Anyone on anticoagulants such as warfarin, or on blood pressure or blood sugar medication, should check with a health professional first. Pregnant and breastfeeding women are advised to avoid it, as are people who react to other nightshades such as tomato and pepper.
This information is provided for general interest and reflects the traditional use of plants. It is not a substitute for medical advice. If you are on medication, pregnant, or in any doubt, ask a healthcare professional.
Written by Gaspard Lorthiois | Loves helping out, especially when it comes to growing things. Worked in herbal medicine, runs a farm, and dabbles in tech. Master's degree and engineer.
