Below ground a root you cook like parsnip or salsify, above ground a tuft of leaves that tastes just like common parsley: root parsley (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum) earns its place in the vegetable patch twice over. Give it sun and loose, humus-rich, well-drained soil, and the roots will keep all winter in dry sand.
| Name | Petroselinum crispum var tuberosum |
|---|---|
| Common | Hamburg or root parsley |
| Family | Apiaceae |
| Type | Root vegetable, biennial herb (but grown as an annual) |
| Height | 4 to 20 inches (10 to 50 cm) |
| Planting distance | Every 6 inches (15 cm) |
| Exposure | Full sun, eventually part shade |
| Soil | Loose, humus-rich, well drained |
| Planting | Spring |
| Harvest | Autumn |
It’s of course grown for its root, but its leaves taste just like those of common parsley. It doubly deserves a spot in the vegetable patch!
To grow properly, root parsley needs a few things going for it: sun (though it can still take part shade), soft soil, lots of organic matter and good drainage. As a result, depending on the type of soil in your garden, a little bit of preliminary work might be required before planting.
If your soil is heavy, meaning it contains lots of clay and is compact, you’ll have to make it lighter.
During the fall a whole season before you plant, amend the soil with extra soil mix and sand. After that, whatever the type of soil, enrich it with large doses of compost or ripe manure. Last of all, with a spading fork, loosen up the soil deep down.
In the following spring, work through the surface of the soil again to loosen it up a bit before planting.
Smart tip : if you’ve got a chimney, don’t throw you ashes away! Use them to make your soil a little bit lighter still. They’re also a great source of potassium for your vegetable patch.
In Early spring or mid-spring, form furrows and sow your seeds with just a little space between them.
When they’ve sprouted and that seedlings have two or three leaves:
Root parsley doesn’t require much care. Simply water regularly but not abundantly in case of extended drought.
A few parasites and pests may try to attack your root parsley:
Pick only a few leaves per plant, as stripping the tuft starves the swelling root.
Avoid letting the bed bake dry and then soaking it, since sudden swings in moisture make the roots crack and split.
Root parsley asks for little care, but three culprits turn up regularly. Knowing which part of the plant each one goes for tells you where to look first.
| Pest | Part attacked | Effect on the plant |
|---|---|---|
| Slugs and snails | Leaves of young sprouts | Feed on the foliage of seedlings |
| Aphids | Foliage and stems | Weaken the plant when too abundant |
| Carrot fly (Chamaepsila rosae) | The roots themselves | Damages the part you harvest and store |
Watch the seedlings early on, then keep an eye on the crown as the roots swell towards autumn.
After harvesting your root parsley in Mid-autumn-late autumn (or even early winter), you’ll discover that it keeps very well.
The key to making this happen is to store the roots in dry sand.
Loosen the soil alongside the row with a fork before pulling, otherwise the long taproot snaps and the broken piece rots.
Do not wash the roots before storing; simply brush off the loose soil.
In mild gardens the roots can be left in the ground under a straw mulch and lifted as needed, since frost does them no harm.
Look through the crate from time to time and take out any root that has gone soft.
The huge advantage root parsley has over regular parsley is that both leaves and root are edible.
Slice the leaves into slivers to flavor your recipes and meals, especially tossed salads.
The root you would prepare and cook in the same way you would salsify and parsnip.
Add the slivered leaves at the very end of cooking, since prolonged heat drives off their parsley aroma.
