Manure, give this sh*t a thought… it’s great for plants!
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Dung and urine bound up with straw or wood shavings, left to rot until the heap runs above 50 °C and the germs die: that is manure. Worked into the vegetable patch it lightens clay soil and enriches it — but only once aged, since fresh manure at a plant’s foot will burn it.
Manure’s key ingredient is solid animal excrements and farm animal urine. It’s often mixed in with bedding material (straw, wood shavings…). It’s very rich in organic materials, around 30%. Since it combines both animal and plant sources, it contains varying amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. However, it’s a material that is very much alive, so it changes over time. Therefore, you can find it in various forms:
Dung and urine mixed with straw bedding
Fresh, it has just been produced by the animals. Use with caution as it might contain germs, residues from animal treatments, and weed remains.
Mature or aged, it has been left in a pile exposed to the open air for several months. This manure has had time to break down naturally. Part of the process is reaching a temperature of at least 122 °F (50 °C), which helps kill harmful germs and bacteria.
Composted, is when the manure is mixed together with compost to decompose. You can make it at home or buy it in a bag.
In dried pellets, it’s very handy for gardeners who don’t have access to fresh or mature manure.
What is the purpose of manure?
Composed of fecal matter and fibrous material (straw), manure offers several benefits for both soil and plants.
It feeds the soil life that makes humus
It amends soil, meaning it improves soil structure and texture. Thus, depending on the type and quality of manure, clay soil becomes lighter and light soil becomes more dense. And logically, soil quality increases: higher air porosity, and much better water and fertilizer retention. In this regard, manure plays the same role as compost.
Manure boosts soil’s biological activity since it’s a source of food for microfauna. All microorganisms and earthworms transform this material into humus.
It has a fertilizing role due to its high content of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, and also minerals. It therefore promotes plant growth. Manure can thus be considered a fertilizer, but it is less potent than ground horn or dried blood or seaweed.
Different types of manure
Depending on the animals that produce it, you would get different types of manure and therefore different quality (or grades):
Cattle manure is composed of dung and straw, rich in organic matter (nitrogen and potassium) due to the large amount of grass cows consume. Moreover, it’s a type of manure that greatly contributes to humus in the soil. It’s considered “cold” manure because it decomposes quite slowly.
Horse manure or donkey manure usually mainly consists of droppings, without as much straw, making it a so-called “hot” manure. Rich in nitrogen and potassium, it’s relatively light. It’s the perfect manure for use in hot beds.
Sheep manure (sheep and goats) is the manure that’s most rich in potash. Like horse manure, it’s a dry and hot manure capable of warming soil up.
Poultry manure consists of chicken droppings and/or other poultry and its litter. It’s the manure that’s richest in nitrogen and should never be used as is. Chicken droppings must absolutely be dried and composted.
Rabbit manure is a hot manure.
Pig manure and slurry are mainly used for spreading on agricultural land.
As a general rule, cold manures are more suited to limestone and siliceous soils, and hot manures to clay soils, which they lighten in structure.
Each farm animal produces manure of a different character, and the article sorts them by how fast they break down and what they are richest in. Use this to match the heap you can get hold of to the soil and crops you have.
Which manure for which job?
Manure type
Hot or cold
Nutrient strength
Best used for
Cattle
Cold, decomposes slowly
Rich in nitrogen and potassium
Building up humus in the soil
Horse or donkey
Hot
Rich in nitrogen and potassium, light
Hot beds
Sheep and goat
Hot and dry
Richest in potash
Warming the soil up
Poultry
Not specified
Richest in nitrogen of all
Only after drying and composting, never as is
Pig (manure and slurry)
Not specified
Not specified
Spreading on agricultural land
As a rule of thumb the article gives, cold manures suit limestone and siliceous soils, while hot manures lighten clay.
How to use manure in the vegetable patch?
Spread across the plot, never against plant stems
Spread manure in the vegetable garden, orchard, and in ornamental flower beds. But, you don’t use in the same manner depending on whether it is fresh, mature or decomposed.
Fresh manure you would simply spread on bare soil throughout the vegetable garden in fall or in winter. It forms a warm cover that acts like thick mulch. As a side benefit, this thick layer significantly disrupts weed growth. And the manure will slowly breakdown until spring to amend and enrich the soil underneath. In spring, as you dig or simply run a broadfork along the plot, the decomposed manure mixes into lower layers below. Count about 2 to 10 pounds per square yard (1 to 5 kg per m²), depending on the type of manure.
Mature or composted manure is spread in spring, just before planting or sowing your first vegetable plants. You just have to lightly incorporate it into the soil with a hoe or claw. You can also toss a shovelful of it at the foot of more nutrient-hungry vegetable plants like tomato or zucchini. Count about 2 pounds per square yard (1 kg per m2).
In any case, absolutely remember never to spread fresh manure directly at the foot of plants as it would literally burn them.
Written by Gaspard Lorthiois | Loves helping out, especially when it comes to growing things. Worked in herbal medicine, runs a farm, and dabbles in tech. Master's degree and engineer.