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Hardy kiwi, the kiwi that can survive Siberian colds

hardy kiwi
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Heart-shaped leaves clothe a vine that climbs well over 15 feet, hung in early summer with fragrant whitish-green flowers carrying violet-red anthers. Hardy kiwi (Actinidia arguta) bears smooth, thin-skinned berries, sweeter than the common kiwi and tangy as gooseberry; give it a sturdy support and cool soil, and it will crop through autumn.

Hardy kiwi at a glance
Botanical name Actinidia arguta
Common name hardy kiwi
Family Actinidiaceae
Type vine
Height 6 feet (5 m)
Planting distance 6 to 10 feet (2 to 3 m)
Exposure full sun, no wind
Soil cool, rich, light, well-draining, not chalky
Planting fall, spring
Harvest early autumn to mid-autumn

Hardy kiwi, sometimes called Siberian kiwi, is a tendril-forming vine native to Asia. It belongs to the Actinidaceae family, just like its relative the more common kiwi (Actinidia chinensis or Actinidia deliciosa).

Hardy kiwi can vine to heights over 15 feet, and it’s covered with lovely heart-shaped deciduous leaves. Blooming begins at the beginning of summer: whitish-green flowers with violet-red anthers appear. They’re very fragrant and bear a lot of nectar for bees. When the specimen you’ve planted is a female one, or if it’s a self-pollinating variety, the blooming is followed by the emergence of oval berries. Each berry is smaller than that of the regular kiwi, and its skin is smooth and thin. They’re also sweeter and contain even more vitamin C and calcium.

The tangy taste of hardy kiwi is very similar to that of gooseberry.

Sowing hardy kiwi

Sowing Siberian kiwi takes place at the beginning of spring, but you can also start your seedlings indoors or in a greenhouse anytime in fall. If you’re growing kiwi from seed taken from the current year’s fruits, then you must keep them in the refrigerator for 8 to 12 weeks. This simulates spending a winter out in the cold, which is necessary to trigger germination.

  • Sow your hardy kiwi seeds in nursery pots filled with ⅔ soil mix and ⅓ sand. Another option is to use special seedling potting soil.
  • Press the substrate down a bit to make it more compact, and sprinkle the seeds atop the mix. Lastly, cover the seeds with another sprinkling of the same soil blend.
  • Spray or mist the seeds, aiming for that balance between getting the substrate moist deep down, but without turning everything into a soggy mess.
  • Set the nursery pots up in a miniature greenhouse or in a room where the temperature hovers between 75 and 85°F (25 and 30°C).

Planting hardy kiwi

Fall is when you should transplant your hardy kiwi to the ground. Note, however, that if you live in places where winter is harsh, it’s best to transplant it in spring so that it can settle in during the summer before facing its first cold winter.

Hardy kiwi fruit on a branch on a well-planted vine
Rich, light, well-draining soil, never chalky
  • Prepare a hole with cool, rich, light and well-draining soil to plant your hardy kiwi in. It hates soil that’s soggy or often flooded. And, most of all, it shouldn’t be chalky/limestone.
  • Best choose a sunny spot, if possible sheltered from the strongest winds.

Dig the planting hole 2 feet (50 cm) across, and make sure you space the plants by 6 to 10 feet on all sides.

  • Pour a layer of gravel along the bottom of the hole, then cover that with a mix of soil and peat.
  • Lay the seedling down in a slanted position. Gently bend the stems vertically, backfill, stake the young shoots and water abundantly.

Growing and caring for hardy kiwi

Hardy kiwi is a very hardy plant. It can resist colds down to -4°F (-20°C). In most parts of the temperate world, you can grow it outdoors directly in the ground without any problems at all.

Hardy kiwi flower bud
One male vine pollinates five or six females

If ever you’ve planted hardy kiwi varieties that aren’t self-pollinating, then you should plant at least one male specimen so that all the other female specimens may find pollen to bear fruit. One single male is usually enough to fertilize 5 or 6 female specimens.

The Siberian kiwi vine requires a trellis that’s sturdy and strong (lattice, pergola, tree trunk, fence…). Keep the soil cool in summer thanks to regular watering (1 or 2 times a week when the weather is hot). A layer of plant mulch 4 to 6 inches thick (10 to 15 cm) will be a big help to your hardy kiwi on those hot days.

Diseases and pests

Hardy kiwi isn’t very vulnerable to attack from pests, except for red spider mite. This pest typically appears when the weather is both hot and dry.

Harvesting and keeping hardy kiwi

Hardy kiwi harvest spread out in a tray
Picked slightly early, the fruit ripens off the vine

A hardy kiwi usually needs 2 to 3 years after planting before bearing its first few fruits. When fruiting has started, you’ll have a continuous supply from early autumn to mid-autumn, so make it a point to check on the vine every couple days to see what’s ripe for the picking.

You can also pick a hardy kiwi even if it isn’t quite ripe yet: it’ll ripen still even when you’ve picked it off the plant.

In any case, expect a picked hardy kiwi to keep for at most one or two weeks. You usually eat it fresh and raw; there’s no need to peel it.

The hardy kiwi year, stage by stage

From seed to picked fruit, hardy kiwi follows a fairly fixed calendar. Here is what happens when, and the one thing that matters at each stage.

The hardy kiwi year, stage by stage
Stage When What matters
Sowing Beginning of spring, or in fall under cover Seed from this year’s fruit needs 8 to 12 weeks in the refrigerator before it will germinate
Planting out Fall, or spring where winters are harsh Space the plants 6 to 10 feet apart in rich, light, well-draining, non-chalky soil
Watering and mulching Through summer, when the weather is hot Water once or twice a week and keep the soil cool under a thick plant mulch
First fruits 2 to 3 years after planting Non self-pollinating vines need a male nearby before any berries set
Harvest early autumn to mid-autumn Pick over the vine every couple of days; fruit keeps only one or two weeks

Meet those few dates and a single vine will keep the fruit bowl full for two months.

Which hardy kiwi to plant

Hardy kiwi is usually sold either as a named female needing a male nearby, or as one of the few self-fertile selections that will crop on their own. The table below sets out the varieties most often found in garden centres and mail-order fruit catalogues.

Which hardy kiwi to plant
Variety Pollination Fruit Season Vigour
Ananasnaya (Anna) Female, needs a male Green flushed red, aromatic Mid Very vigorous
Michigan State (MSU) Female, needs a male Large green berries Late Very vigorous
Issai Self-fertile Small, green, very sweet Early Compact, good in pots
Jumbo Female, needs a male Largest green berries Late Very vigorous
Weiki Female, sold with male partner Green, red-blushed, sweet Mid Vigorous, very hardy
Ken’s Red Female, needs a male Purple-red skinned Late Vigorous
Geneva Female, needs a male Green with red blush, sweet Early Vigorous
Meader Male pollinator only None Flowers mid-season Vigorous

Cooking with hardy kiwi

This kiwi’s taste is ideal to give a delicious twang to your fruit salads. It’s also surprisingly tasty in sweet & sour dishes. Those who like baking can make pies, muffins, and even ice cream from it. Another option to make the most of your ripe hardy kiwis is to drink them: blend them to prepare juice, slice them into punch, or distill them to brew wine. Lastly, hardy kiwi preserves are also easy to succeed: jam, sauce and jelly.

  • Raw hardy kiwi contains actinidin, a protein-digesting enzyme, so a mousse or jelly set with gelatine will refuse to firm up unless the fruit is cooked first.
  • Crushed kiwifruit, which contains the protease actinidin, makes an effective marinade for tough cuts of meat, though contact should be limited to roughly half an hour before the surface turns mushy.
  • Firm, slightly under-ripe berries contain more intact pectin and release less juice when baked, so they generally keep their shape better than fully ripe, softer fruit, which tends to collapse.
  • When making jam from berries low in pectin, such as strawberries or blackberries, adding lemon juice or a tart apple supplies the extra acid and pectin that help the jam set.
  • Whole berries freeze well without peeling or slicing, and go straight from the freezer into smoothies or sauces.

Learn more about hardy kiwi

Some varieties are easier to find than others. For instance, the ‘Issei’ or ‘Issai’ variety is easier to get your hands on. It bears fruits that are very sweet! It’s a self-pollinating variety.


Image credits (edits Gaspard Lorthiois):
CC BY 2.0: solylunafamilia, Invisible Garden
CC BY-SA 2.0: Erutuon, Hunda

Written by Gaspard Lorthiois | Loves helping out, especially when it comes to growing things. Worked in herbal medicine, runs a farm, and dabbles in tech. Master's degree and engineer.

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