Small inverted flowers in white, green or yellow open along a tall scape, their petals and dorsal sepal overlapping into a hood: these are the rein or bog orchids (Habenaria), tuberous ground orchids of tropical Asia, Africa and South America. Watering, adjusted season by season, decides whether they thrive.
These rare and fascinating Habenaria orchids are considered difficult to grow. Luckily, with proper care, their needs are met and they thrive.
Habenaria ciliolaris – Eye-Lash
| Botanical name | Habenaria |
|---|---|
| Common name | rein or bog orchid |
| Family | Orchidaceae |
| Origin | Asia, South America, Africa |
| Type | ground-based |
| Bearing | upright |
| Blooming | summer |
| Flower colour | white, green, yellow (depending on the species) |
| Exposure | diffuse light |
| Soil | airy, peaty, well-draining |
| Water needs | high |
| Propagation | division |
Label the pot before the leaves die back.
Habenaria radiata, the egret flower (often treated as Pecteilis radiata), is cold-hardy enough to spend dormancy outdoors in mild climates, whereas tropical members of the genus must be kept frost-free.
These orchids grow from tubers, so set each tuber just below the surface with its growth eye pointing upward, in a pot that comfortably accommodates the tuber and its roots.
Aim for high air humidity around the growing stems, but pair it with steady air movement so the fleshy leaves do not rot.
Habenaria rhodocheila – Red-Lipped
Most Habenaria are tuber ground orchids with fleshy roots and upright stems that are sometimes slender, sometimes thick.
The tuber is the only part of the plant that survives during dormancy.
Deciduous leaves are either clustered around the base of the plant, forming a rosette, or unfurl at various heights along the stem.
Flowers are generally rather small, resupinate (meaning inverted) and are white, green or yellowish depending on the species and variety. Blooming sets in along a tall flowering scape. Petals and the dorsal sepal overlap and form a hood atop the flower. The labellum bears a spike, and usually three thin lobes of varying lengths. The two mallet-like protrusions on the stigma are typical of the Habenaria genus.
Habenaria follow a monsoon rhythm, so the same plant needs opposite treatment at opposite ends of the year. This table sets out what each stage of that cycle asks for.
| Period | Plant stage | Watering | Feeding |
|---|---|---|---|
| Late winter to early spring | Tuber breaks dormancy, first shoots appear | Check weekly for sprouts, then resume regular watering; mist occasionally if growth is late by mid-spring | None until new shoots appear |
| Mid-spring to midsummer | Leafy growth and flowering | Constantly moist substrate, watered at the soil surface | Weekly high-nitrogen fertilizer |
| Late summer to autumn | Flowering over, tuber still storing nutrients | Water regularly but let the substrate dry out somewhat between waterings | Weekly high-phosphorus fertilizer |
| Late autumn to midwinter | Dormancy, only the tuber alive | Virtually no water; repot the tuber in a dry mix | Stop feeding |
Wilting leaves are the signal to stop watering completely and let the tuber rest.
Watering is the single most important factor; it changes with each season.
Water at the soil surface, never into the leaf rosette.
Use rainwater or another low-mineral water, because the fleshy tubers react badly to dissolved salts and fertiliser residue building up in the mix.
Inspect emerging shoots for slugs and snails, since each tuber normally sends up a single stem and losing it wastes the whole growing season.
Habenaria radiata – Egret
To properly grow a Habenaria orchid, the most important factor is watering: it must be perfect! Indeed, Asian species grow together with the monsoon. Bulbs lie dormant in the soil (hard and cracked) and then sprout at the beginning of spring when rain softens the ground. After that, these Habenaria are subjected to constant moisture until the middle of summer.
As a result, it’s critical to ensure a constantly moist substrate during the entire growing and blooming season. When the blooming is over, keep water regularly, but let the substrate dry out somewhat before watering again. Leaves start to wilt after a while: this is the sign to stop watering completely. Repot tuber in a dry mix.
During dormancy, Habenaria requires virtually no water at all. From February to March, check weekly for new sprouts: they show that regular watering is needed again.
Note: if by mid-April your orchid hasn’t yet started growing, mist the substrate occasionally.
Habenaria medusae – Medusa orchid
For Habenaria orchids, repotting thus takes place after the blooming, when the plant enters dormancy.
Note that tubers are still growing and storing nutrients for the next growth season.
Consequently, don’t cut dead leaves away prematurely. On a practical level, these leaves will let you remember which side of the tuber is “up” when you repot it.
Habenaria hate dwelling in sitting water, so you must grow them in an airy and well-draining substrate. Best go for a blend of heath, soil mix, rich garden soil and sand.
H. grandiforiformis – single-leaf
Habenaria orchids need moderate shade and diffuse light.
On average, Habenaria require:
This depends on season and species.
During the growth phase, Habenaria orchids need weekly fertilizing with:
Reduce or even stop fertilizing altogether until new shoots appear in spring.
