Growing Eremurus stenophyllus: expert tips and planting advice

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Eremurus stenophyllus sends up slender, tapering spires of buttery yellow stars that fade to rusty orange as they climb, giving each spike a beautifully two-toned, candle-flame effect. It is the most compact and most manageable of the foxtail lilies, making it the obvious choice for a sunny gravel garden or the middle of a hot, dry border. The long, protruding stamens give the flower spike a distinctly furry, brush-like texture that no other border perennial quite matches.

Growing conditions

Give this plant the hottest, brightest spot you own. It hails from the stony hillsides of Iran, Afghanistan and Turkmenistan, so it expects unfiltered sun from morning to evening. Shade produces floppy, leaning spikes and far fewer flowers.

Drainage matters more than fertility. A gritty, sandy or stony loam is ideal, and a slightly alkaline pH suits it perfectly, though neutral soil is fine. Heavy, wet clay is the one thing that reliably kills it, since the fleshy crown rots in cold, standing moisture.

Cold itself is rarely a problem — the roots tolerate hard frost provided they are dry. In damp maritime climates such as western Britain or Ireland, grow it on a raised bed, a slope or a gravel garden to keep winter water moving away from the crown.

How to plant Eremurus

Plant the bare, brittle crowns in early to mid autumn, from September to October, while the soil is still warm enough for roots to settle. Container-grown plants can also go in during spring, but autumn planting gives the strongest first-season flowering.

• Spacing: allow 40–60 cm between crowns so the wide rosettes of strappy leaves do not overlap and trap moisture.
• Depth and position: sit the crown 10–15 cm below the surface with the fleshy roots spread out flat, like the arms of a starfish, and the central growth bud facing upwards.
• Soil preparation: excavate a broad, shallow hole about 45 cm across, fork in plenty of coarse grit, then mound sharp sand beneath the crown so water drains away instantly.
• Watering in: water once at planting to settle the soil, then leave well alone — autumn rainfall is more than enough.
• Propagation: lift and separate offsets in late summer once the foliage has died back, or sow fresh seed in autumn, accepting a four to six year wait for the first flowers.

Care through the seasons

Spring: Rosettes of narrow, glaucous, blue-green leaves appear very early, often in March, and are vulnerable to late frosts. Cover emerging growth with fleece or a cloche of straw if a sharp night is forecast. Apply a light dressing of bonemeal or a low-nitrogen general fertiliser as the leaves expand.

Summer: The flower spike rises rapidly in June and may need a discreet cane in windy gardens, tied loosely below the raceme. Water only during prolonged drought whilst in bud; once flowering ends, the plant wants to bake dry. Remove faded spikes unless you want seed, and expect the foliage to yellow and collapse soon afterwards — this dormancy is entirely normal.

Autumn: Clear away the withered leaves to deny slugs a hiding place, and mark the crown’s position with a label so you do not spear it with a fork. This is the season to plant new crowns or lift and divide congested clumps, which is best done only every five or six years. Top-dress with grit rather than rich organic mulch.

Winter: The plant is completely dormant below ground and needs no attention beyond staying dry. In very cold or very wet gardens, a loose blanket of bracken, straw or a propped-up pane of glass over the crown gives useful insurance.

Best varieties to grow

The species itself is superb, but several closely related hybrids extend the colour range dramatically.

• Eremurus stenophyllus subsp. stenophyllus — the classic form, holder of the RHS Award of Garden Merit, with yellow florets ageing to burnt orange.
• Eremurus × isabellinus ‘Pinokkio’ — a compact hybrid of this species to about 1.2 m, with rich orange-yellow flowers and dark stamens.
• Eremurus × isabellinus ‘Cleopatra’ — taller at 1.5 m, with striking burnt-apricot flowers and reddish stems.
• Eremurus × isabellinus Ruiter Hybrids — a reliable seed-raised mixture spanning cream, peach, pink and copper shades.

Pests, diseases and common problems

• Slugs and snails: the soft early foliage is a magnet in March and April, and shredded rosettes ruin the season’s flowering. Ring the crowns with sharp grit or crushed shell and patrol on damp evenings.
• Crown and root rot: shoots fail to appear, or collapse blackened at the base, almost always because of winter waterlogging. There is no cure — replant survivors on a mound of sharp sand in a raised, freely drained bed.
• Frost damage to young leaves: browned, glassy leaf tips after a cold snap look alarming but rarely kill the plant. Cover with horticultural fleece on clear nights and remove damaged tissue once growth resumes.