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Peperomia, a houseplant noted for its foliage

Peperomia
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Waffle-textured, mottled, purple or plain green, the leaves of peperomia change completely from one species to the next, and summer adds long, slender flower panicles. This tropical perennial from South American forests is grown indoors for that foliage alone: give it bright but indirect light and moist air, and it stays handsome all year.

Peperomia at a glance
Name Peperomia
Family Piperaceae
Type perennial, indoor plant
Height 10 inches (25 cm)
Exposure well-lit
Soil well-drained
Foliage evergreen
Flowering summer

It is very much appreciated for its foliage, which is extremely varied depending to the species and in every case amazingly ornamental.

Planting peperomia

Potted peperomia on a fence
Repot at winter’s end, into a barely larger pot

Peperomia has the particularity of loving being repotted at the end of winter.

You can thus repot it after having purchased it if you realize the roots start sticking out from the bottom of the pot, and after that yearly at the end of winter.

  • It’s preferable to repot it in a pot that is only very slightly larger than the previous because peperomia likes a tight fit.
  • The pot must have a drainage layer at the bottom. For that, use gravel or clay pebbles.

Best exposure for peperomia

Peperomia loves well-lit situations but abhors receiving the sun’s rays directly, especially in summer.

Peperomia exposure
Bright light, but never direct sun in summer
  • Place your peperomia behind a window that would only be impacted by the sun’s rays early morning or late afternoon, with a thin protective veil.
  • Cultivars with variegated leaves tolerate the sun more than those with straight green foliage.
  • At all costs, avoid rooms that are too dark, because peperomia also fears darkness.
  • Green-leaved peperomia need a lot of light, but must be protected from full sun.

Termperature-wise, peperomia tolerates heated indoor apartments, but it may happen that its leaves drop off if the air is too dry (solve this problem here).

Temperatures mustn’t drop below 55 to 57°F (12 to 13°C).

Pruning and caring for peperomia

Peperomia pests
Scale is one of the usual indoor plant pests

After the blooming, eliminate floral scapes from the peperomia, cutting them as short as you can.

  • Only eliminate leaves if they’ve withered, dried up or turned yellow.

Occasionally, you’ll have a few of the usual indoor plant fiends: scale (shown here), and red spider mites.

  • Pinch out the growing tips of trailing and semi-trailing kinds such as Hope or cupid peperomia to keep them branching instead of running to bare, straggly stems.
  • Turn a few leaves over and check the undersides, where red spider mites usually begin, though infestations can also show up on shoot tips and other parts of the plant.
  • Feed only sparingly with a diluted houseplant fertiliser, since peperomia grows slowly and prefers to be slightly pot-bound, needing repotting into fresh compost only every two to three years.

Watering peperomia

The natural environment of peperomia is the tropical forests of South America and it therefore requires high relative moisture all year round to develop well.

However, no need to water often: excessive watering could also kill it off. Excess water usually translates to leaf loss and ultimately death for your plant.

  • Water lightly and only when the soil is really dry.
  • Mist the leafage with soft water, especially in winter, since heating tends to reduce indoor air moisture levels.
  • Peperomia is better at coping with dry soils than it is with waterlogged ones.

What goes wrong with peperomia, and why

Almost every peperomia setback comes down to air, water, light or a pest. Match what you are seeing to the cause before you change anything.

What goes wrong with peperomia, and why
What you see Likely cause Response
Leaves drop off Indoor air too dry, usually from heating Mist the leafage with soft water, especially in winter
Leaf loss, then the plant dies Too much water at the roots Water lightly and only when the soil is really dry
Plant fails in a dim corner Room too dark Move it to a well-lit spot out of direct sun
Fine mottling and webbing on leaves Red spider mites, the commonest peperomia pest Follow the treatment for fighting red spider mites
Small limpet-like bumps on stems and leaves Scale insects Treat as for any indoor plant infestation
Sudden decline in a cool room Temperature too low Keep it above 55 to 57°F (12 to 13°C)

Remember too that a peperomia is naturally short-lived and slow-growing, so not every change is a problem to fix.

Which peperomia to choose

The peperomias sold as houseplants range from quilted rosettes to fine trailers, and they are not interchangeable on a shelf or in a hanging pot. Use the table below to match leaf, habit and position before you buy.

Which peperomia to choose
Variety Foliage Habit Best use
‘Emerald Ripple’ Dark green, deeply quilted Compact rosette Windowsill or desk pot
‘Silver Ripple’ Silvery-grey, quilted Compact rosette Bright shelf or terrarium
‘Rosso’ Corrugated green, red undersides Compact rosette Small feature pot
‘Ginny’ (Rainbow peperomia) Cream and pink-edged fleshy leaves Spreading, semi-upright Bright light keeps the pink
‘Variegata’ Green with cream margins Bushy, upright Bright indirect light
Cupid peperomia ‘Variegata’ Heart-shaped, cream-margined Trailing or climbing Shelf, basket or small support
‘Luna Red’ Deep burgundy, quilted Compact rosette Colour accent indoors
Peperomia albovittata ‘Piccolo Banda’ Silvery leaves with dark veins Compact rosette Small pot or terrarium
‘Hope’ Small round green leaves in whorls Semi-trailing Hanging pot or shelf edge

Learn more about peperomia

Peperomia red variety
Leaf colour differs greatly between species

There is a large number of peperomia species and varieties with colors and foliage that differ greatly.

The photos we have here don’t necessarily present the actual varieties mentioned, it’s very possible that your own peperomia is very different from those shown.

There are green ones, mottled ones, waffle-textured ones, purple ones and even peperomia that are less or more densely leaved.

However, they all share common traits: a tropical origin traced back to South America and blooming that presents extended, long panicles.

Note also that the lifespan of a peperomia isn’t very long, and it grows relatively slowly.

But peperomia is, all in all, a simply beautiful indoor plant thanks to its varied and variegated (!) ornamental foliage.

Smart tip about peperomia

Red spider mites are the most prevalent parasites on peperomia. To eradicate them, follow our advice on fighting red spider mites.


Images: CC BY 2.0: Kim & Forest Starr; Pixabay: Dominique, Jan Haerer, CC BY 4.0: Kim & Forest Starr; Unsplash: Borzoo Moazami

Written by Gaspard Lorthiois | Loves helping out, especially when it comes to growing things. Worked in herbal medicine, runs a farm, and dabbles in tech. Master's degree and engineer.

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