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Crown imperial, guinea fowl eggs!

Wonderful orange-blooming crown imperial
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Long scapes carry a ring of drooping bells in yellow, red or white, opening among the very first flowers of spring: this is the crown imperial (Fritillaria imperialis), whose pungent bulbs also keep rodents at bay. Give it rich, well-drained soil, since it detests sitting water, and this perennial will bloom again from one year to the next.

Crown imperial at a glance
Name Fritillaria imperialis
Family Liliaceae (lily family)
Type spring bulb
Height 8 to 40 inches (20 to 100 cm)
Exposure full sun, part sun
Soil ordinary, well drained
Flowering April to June

Its inflorescence is spectacular and it grows very well in our climates. Its early blooming makes it one of the first flowers to flower in spring.

Crown imperial has evolved into a great number of species, and they all bloom in spring.

Planting crown imperial

One preferably plants crown imperial bulbs in September-October, to a depth of at least 4 inches (10 cm).

Planting crown imperial
Plant three times as deep as the bulb is tall

Just remember that the planting depth is more or less always 3 times as deep as the bulb is tall, that’s why it varies from 4 to 8 inches (10 to 20 cm) in depth. Space each bulb 16 inches (40 cm) apart.

This plant is a perennial and will bloom again from one year to the next.

  • Prefer rich and well-drained soil because crown imperial detests sitting water.
  • Adding organic matter (bulb plant fertilizer) upon planting is a good idea.
  • Crown imperial loves high sun exposure.
  • Follow our planting guidelines for bulbs.

In order to extend its lifespan and see the flowers bloom innumerable and luminous, regenerate the bulbs every 2 or 3 years.

  • To do that, multiply the plant through bulb division in fall, when the leaves have completely withered away.

Caring for crown imperial

The crown imperial requires rich soil, which is why you should fertilize the ground whenever you notice that your plant is diminishing in vigor.

As for watering, it will only be needed in case of extended dry spell, but since the flowering usually takes place in spring, this is really exceptional in temperate climates.

  • Watch the leaves for scarlet lily beetle, a bright red insect whose larvae can strip a stem bare in days.
  • For lily beetles, whose larvae coat themselves in their own slimy black excrement, pick both adults and larvae off by hand, checking the undersides of leaves where they hide.
  • On hyacinths and bluebells, remove the faded flower spikes to prevent seed set, but leave the stalk and leaves to die back naturally, since the foliage photosynthesises and replenishes the bulb.
  • Many summer-dormant bulbs, such as tulips and daffodils, keep best in dry soil, so avoid drenching their spot when watering neighbouring summer flowers, since prolonged wetness can rot susceptible bulbs.

Trimming crown imperial

The leafage must not be cut off until it has withered away completely. Indeed, the phase where the leaves turn yellow is exactly when the plant stocks up on nutrients for the next blooming cycle.

  • Cut the leaves short before winter and mulch with dried leaves to protect it from the cold.
  • After spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils finish blooming, avoid folding down or tying up their yellowing leaves; letting the foliage die back naturally helps the bulbs store energy for next year’s flowers.
  • Mark clumps of spring bulbs such as daffodils and tulips with a label or cane, because their foliage dies back completely by midsummer, leaving the dormant bulbs vulnerable to careless digging.
  • When cutting back crown imperial (Fritillaria imperialis), wear gloves: its bulbs and stems contain the toxic alkaloid imperialine, and the plant’s characteristic foxy, musky smell clings readily to skin.

The crown imperial year, task by task

Everything this bulb asks for happens at a set moment of the year. Here is what to do, and when.

The crown imperial year, task by task
Task When What to do
Planting September–October Bury each bulb three times as deep as it is tall, 4 to 8 inches (10 to 20 cm), spaced 16 inches (40 cm) apart
Flowering April to June One of the first flowers of spring, on very long scapes
Feeding Whenever vigour drops Fertilize the ground, since this bulb needs rich soil
Watering Extended dry spells only Rarely needed, as flowering falls in spring in temperate climates
Leaving the leaves Until fully yellowed Never cut green leafage: yellowing is when the bulb stocks up for next year
Trimming and mulching Before winter Cut the leaves short and mulch with dried leaves against the cold
Dividing the bulbs Every 2 or 3 years, in fall Divide once the leaves have completely withered, to keep blooms abundant

Follow this rhythm and the clumps will come back stronger from one year to the next.

Which crown imperial to choose

All crown imperials share the same needs, but they differ in the colour of the bells and in how tall the scape rises. The table below compares the varieties most often sold as autumn bulbs.

Which crown imperial to choose
Variety Bell colour Best use
‘Prolifera’ (Crown upon Crown) Orange-red, two tiers Specimen clump, focal point
‘William Rex’ Brownish red, bronzed Mixed border with tulips
‘Rubra Maxima’ Deep orange-red Back of a sunny border
‘Aurora’ Burnt orange Windier gardens, shorter scape

All there is to know about crown imperial

It puts forth remarkable distinctive flowers, with very long scapes bearing drooping bells that are yellow, red or white depending on the variety.

Two rows of yellow imperial crown flowers seen from below.
Drooping bells hang from very long scapes

Crown imperial also has the added characteristic of keeping rodents at bay, possibly because its bulbs have a very pungent smell.

  • You’ll be thrilled by this very unique perennial.
  • Plant it in small clusters that will make your flower beds rise to the next level!
  • Among the most interesting varieties, you can try the crown imperial or “Fritillaria imperialis“.

Smart tip about crown imperial

For the tallest scapes, feel free to stake them so that they don’t bend over, especially if you live in a windy spot!


Images: adobestock: Maksims; Pixabay: A. Krebs, Jana V. M.

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Your reactions
  • Jan wrote on 24 June 2023 at 22 h 17 min

    I love your site and can’t wait to get my bulbs in the spring

    • Gaspard wrote on 29 June 2023 at 3 h 45 min

      Thank you very much, Jan! I’m sure you’ll be thrilled, these really look very nice!