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Carrot fly, how to control this wasp-like carrot borer

Carrot fly
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A slender, wasp-like fly with a black body, brown head and yellow legs lays its eggs in the soil beside young carrots, and the cream-yellow maggot that hatches burrows down to tunnel through the roots. Carrot fly (Psila rosae) rarely flies above 2 feet, so a net of that height is what keeps a crop clean.

Meet Psila rosae, the Carrot Fly

Description of carrot fly
Black body, brown head, yellow legs, translucent wings

This flying insect belongs to the psilidae family. This fly has a slender silhouette like a wasp.

Its body is black, its head is brown, its legs are yellow, and its wings are of a pale translucent yellow.

It’s its larva that causes problem in the garden! Measuring up to ~2/5 inch (1cm) long, it is of a cream yellow color. The issue? It particularly appreciates carrot roots…

  • Bruised carrot foliage releases a scent that draws egg-laying females, so lift thinnings and weeds off the plot rather than leaving them lying between the rows.
  • The maggot has no legs and no distinct head, which separates it from the slim, hard, brown wireworm also found in damaged roots.
  • Standard gardening guidance on carrot root fly advises siting carrot beds in open, exposed, breezy positions, on the basis that the adult flies are said to favour sheltered, shaded spots near hedges.

Life Cycle

Carrot fly reproduction
Each female lays about fifty eggs in the soil

In the spring, flies lay eggs near young carrot plants. Each female lays about fifty eggs in the soil. Once the egg hatches, the larva buries itself in the soil to feed on the roots. They even end up digging tunnels, which significantly weakens the plant. The maggot then transforms into a pupa to pupate. After a short month, the pupa gives way to an adult insect.

Every year, two to three generations succeed each other. In winter, the pupae enter diapause underground, meaning they hibernate. The insects will then emerge from the ground the following spring, when the temperatures are more clement.

Symptoms and Damage to the Garden

Carrot fly symptoms
Lifted roots show tunnels and black streaks

Digging directly into the carrot itself, the culture is endangered, but especially the harvest! Your plants will then be weakened, wilted and the leaves will yellow.

In case of heavy attack, the plants will perish and the harvest will be compromised. When you pull up your carrots, you will then see the roots dug up and marked by black streaks.

  • In many plants, foliage can take on a reddish or bronze tint before yellowing, a possible early hint of hidden root stress, though such discoloration has many causes and alone diagnoses nothing.
  • Roots tunnelled by pests such as carrot fly larvae or wireworms are more prone to rot, so they are best trimmed and used promptly rather than kept in long-term storage.
  • Sort the carrots as you lift them and set aside every root showing tunnels or black streaks rather than putting it in the store.

How to avoid the carrot fly

Crop rotation:

This insect overwinters underground, near carrot plants, so it’s crucial to move the host plant. If you have already suffered an attack from this pest, consider significantly distancing your carrots during the next sowing. Indeed, there may still be pupae underground, even if you think you’ve eradicated all of them.

The anti-insect net:

Net against carrot fly
A net stops females laying at the carrot base

As a preventive measure, install an anti-insect net that will act as a barrier to flies. This way, they cannot lay eggs at the base of the carrots. The fly flies at a maximum height of about 2 feet (60cm), remember to use a net of the same height.

Crop associations:

Some plants have a repelling effect on certain pest insects.

This is the case with Alliums such as onion, leek and garlic, which repel the carrot fly. A service rendered by the latter that keeps away the onion fly. It’s better to plant these two next to each other! You can also set up wormwood nearby, its scent repels the fly.

Coffee grounds:

At the time of sowing, add coffee grounds. The strong smell repels the fly, while being a choice fertilizer!

Lavender mulch:

While we appreciate lavender to the point of making scented sachets, this is not the case with the carrot fly. At the time of transplanting, place lavender mulch at the base of the carrots, the fly will not come to lay there.

Carrot fly control methods compared

The article describes several ways of keeping Psila rosae away from a carrot bed, some preventive and some used once damage has begun. This table sets them side by side so you can pick the one that suits your timing.

Carrot fly control methods compared
Method Type When to apply How it works
Crop rotation Preventive At the next sowing Moves carrots well away from soil where pupae may still be overwintering
Anti-insect net Preventive From sowing onwards A physical barrier about 2 feet (60cm) high, matching the fly’s maximum flying height
Allium companions Preventive At planting Onion, leek and garlic grown alongside repel the carrot fly
Wormwood nearby Preventive At planting Its scent repels the fly
Coffee grounds Preventive At the time of sowing Strong smell repels the fly and feeds the soil at the same time
Lavender mulch Preventive At the time of transplanting Laid at the base of the carrots so the fly will not lay there
Glue strips Curative supplement Once flies are about Carrot-coloured traps set at flying height catch adults, but not enough on their own
Garlic or onion infusion Curative Sprayed on affected plants Boiled and infused garlic preparation keeps the pests away, keeps cool for 10 days

Combining a barrier with a repellent planting gives far better results than any single measure used alone.

Natural treatments against the carrot fly

Are your carrots already under attack? Consider removing all affected carrots and burning them. Here are two environmentally safe control methods.

Glue strips:

The same color as carrots, these strips work as a trap for the flies. Place them at flying height, so they can easily stick to them. This technique is a good supplement to eradicate them. However, it won’t be enough to deal with them on its own, especially if the attack is significant.

Garlic or onion infusion:

Still with the aim of keeping these pests away from the garden, prepare a garlic infusion.

  1. Boil about 1 quart of rainwater or filtered water (1 liter)
  2. Add about 3.5 ounces of crushed garlic (100 grams)
  3. Keep boiling for 15 minutes
  4. Cover and let infuse for 12 hours
  5. Pour the preparation into a sprayer using a strainer to filter it

You can keep this decoction cool for 10 days. To use it, just spray it on the affected plants.


Images: CC BY-NC 4.0: Henric, svg52, CC BY-SA 4.0: Emanuele Santarelli; depositphotos: doethion, Wirestock

Written by Gaspard Lorthiois | Loves helping out, especially when it comes to growing things. Worked in herbal medicine, runs a farm, and dabbles in tech. Master's degree and engineer.

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