Lily in containers: pot depth, planting and aftercare

Published on 7 September 2026

Three terracotta pots of white and pink oriental lilies in flower on a stone terrace

Lilies are among the few bulbs that are genuinely better in a pot than in the ground. They flower at eye level where the scent is worth having, they can be moved into view while in bloom and out of it afterwards, and the compost can be replaced each season rather than fought over with the rest of the border.

Two things decide whether it works: the depth of the pot, and what you do once flowering ends.

The pot: depth before width

Nearly every failure with potted lilies comes back to a container that is too shallow.

Depth of at least 30 cm, and 40 cm is better for tall Oriental varieties. The bulb sits deep and the stem roots form above it
Diameter of 25 to 30 cm for three bulbs. Crowding is not the problem; shallowness is
Drainage holes that actually drain. A lily bulb sitting in water rots within weeks, and it is the commonest way to lose one
Terracotta over plastic where you can: heavier, less likely to blow over with a metre of stem above it, and it breathes

Gloved hands setting pale lily bulbs on compost inside a tall deep terracotta pot, with a sack of horticultural grit alongside — *Depth is what counts: the bulb sits low and the stem roots form in the compost above it. A wide shallow pot gives short stems and few flowers.*

Compost and planting depth

Use a free-draining loam-based compost rather than a light multipurpose mix, which collapses over a season and holds too much water
Add a third of grit or perlite by volume. Lilies tolerate drought far better than a wet crown
Cover the bulb with two to three times its own height of compost — for a 5 cm bulb, that means 10 to 15 cm above it
Leave 3 to 4 cm below the rim for watering, and set the bulbs 8 to 10 cm apart
Madonna lilies are the exception: they want the nose of the bulb just below the surface, not buried

The general method is the same as for any bulb planting, with depth exaggerated.

Two levels in one pot

A deep container will take two layers of bulbs, which extends the display and doubles the density:

Fill to 10 cm from the base, set the first three bulbs, cover with 10 cm of compost
Set three more bulbs between the positions of the first layer, not directly above them
Cover, water once, and leave it. The lower bulbs simply grow through
Combining an early Asiatic layer with a later Oriental layer spreads flowering across several weeks

Watering and feeding through the season

Water when the top 3 cm are dry, thoroughly, and empty any saucer. More potted lilies die of drowning than of drought
Feed fortnightly from the appearance of buds with a high-potash tomato feed. Nitrogen produces tall soft stems that fall over
Keep feeding for six weeks after the flowers fade. This is the period when the bulb rebuilds for the following season, and stopping early is why second-year displays disappoint
Remove the faded flower but leave the stem and leaves until they yellow of their own accord

After flowering, and the following season

Let the foliage die back naturally, then cut the stem at compost level
Move the pot somewhere sheltered and keep the compost barely moist, never wet, through the cold months. A pot standing in winter rain is the main cause of loss
Bulbs can stay in the same pot for two seasons. Beyond that, repot into fresh compost — the method is the same as repotting any container plant
Renewing the compost each season also removes overwintering lily beetles, which is a useful side effect
Bulbs that have multiplied can be separated at repotting and grown on in their own pot

For the plant itself rather than the container method, see the lily care guide. And if a cat shares the house, every part of the plant is toxic to cats — a pot on a terrace is easier to keep at a distance than a vase indoors, but the pollen still travels.

Frequently Asked Questions

How deep should a pot be for lilies?

At least 30 cm, and 40 cm for tall Oriental varieties. Most lilies root from the stem above the bulb as well as from the bulb itself, so depth matters far more than width. A shallow pot gives short stems and few flowers.

How many bulbs in one pot?

Three in a pot of 25 to 30 cm across, spaced 8 to 10 cm apart. Grouped stems support each other and read as a single clump. In a deep container you can add a second layer above the first.

Why did my potted lily flower well the first year and poorly the second?

Almost always because feeding stopped when the flowers faded. The bulb rebuilds its reserves in the six weeks after flowering. Keep feeding with a high-potash fertiliser through that period and leave the foliage until it yellows.

Can I leave the pot outside through the cold months?

Yes, provided it stays dry. Move it against a wall or under an overhang so it escapes winter rain, and keep the compost barely moist. Standing water rots the bulb far more often than cold does.

Do I need to repot every year?

No. Bulbs can stay two seasons in the same compost. Repotting in the third year into fresh mix restores nutrients, lets you divide bulbs that have multiplied, and removes any lily beetles overwintering in the old compost.