LANDSCAPING : The ascending Waxing Gibbous moon pushes sap upward with real vigour today — flowering plants respond well to this energy, so give your ornamental beds some attention before the autumn chill settles in for good. Plant wallflowers (Erysimum cheiri) and forget-me-nots (Myosotis sylvatica) in gaps between dormant perennials, spacing them 20–25 cm apart at a depth matching their root ball; firm the soil gently and water in with a fine rose / Lift and divide clumps of Michaelmas daisies (Aster amellus) that have grown congested: split with two back-to-back forks, replant the outer sections at 30 cm intervals, and discard the woody centre — divisions establish faster in cool, moist autumn soil / Deadhead any lingering cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus) and rudbeckia (Rudbeckia fulgida) to redirect the plant’s remaining energy into root consolidation rather than seed production. In Mediterranean climates, this is also a fine moment to set out young plants of Osteospermum and Felicia for winter colour.
VEGETABLE PATCH : A flower-day under an ascending moon nudges the garden toward above-ground leafy and flowering crops rather than roots — a natural shift after the root-focused work of recent days. Sow overwintering spinach (‘Monstrueux de Viroflay’, ‘Giant Winter’) directly in rows 25 cm apart, seeds 2 cm deep, thinning later to 15 cm; cool soil encourages steady germination without bolting / Transplant young lamb’s lettuce (Valerianella locusta) and claytonia (Montia perfoliata) plugs into a sheltered bed or cold frame — space at 10 cm, water lightly, and cover with fleece if frost is forecast below −3 °C / Check on any Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris var. cicla ‘Fordhook Giant’) still standing: strip yellowing outer leaves to the base with a clean cut, which reduces rot risk and keeps the crown producing through mild spells. On heavy clay soils, raise the bed slightly with a 5 cm layer of compost to avoid waterlogging around the crowns.
INDOORS : Autumn is the quiet season for houseplants too, and a little timely care now saves a lot of trouble come February. Reduce watering frequency for pelargoniums (Pelargonium zonale) and fuchsias brought inside for winter: once every 10–14 days is enough in a cool room at 8–12 °C, since overwatering in low light is the main cause of winter losses / Pot up amaryllis bulbs (Hippeastrum) now in a well-draining mix (equal parts loam, perlite and grit), burying the bulb two-thirds deep in a snug pot — a tight fit actually encourages flowering / Move any tender salvias (Salvia microphylla, S. guaranitica) away from cold windowsills; even a few degrees above the glass makes a real difference to their survival rate through the coldest weeks.